Rioja's wine system is all about aging, with one of the key criteria in categories like crianza, reserva and gran reserva being the amount of time the wine spends in oak barrels before being bottled.
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Niagara's most stylish winery hosted a tasting, tour and lunch on one of the nicer days in May and the wine was as fine as the weather.
Norman Hardie @ Somewhereness, April 22
Norman Hardie (at right) with his 
viticulturalist/associate Benjamin Simmons and an assistant at the Somewhereness event in Leslieville.
Norman Hardie, with his eponymous winery, is putting Prince Edward County on the wine map. He bought land there in 2001 and, after initially using Niagara grapes, has added more and more County grapes to his wines. He's best known for his chardonnays and pinot noirs and he's not shy about marketing them at the upper end of the Ontario price range. And he's had success, getting his wines listed at a number of top restaurants in Toronto and Ottawa, and, by the way, selling out every single bottle every year.
The Backstory
Hardie's unplaceable accent (certainly not County, eh?) is a result of years spent abroad and is a nicely clear vehicle for him to be articulate about wine. And what an interesting resume: “I went to Dijon University when I was 20," said Hardie, "and sort of just fell into the sommelier program there and I loved it. I got myself a job in a Michelin two star restaurant and completed the sommelier program. Back in Canada I worked at the Four Seasons – started as a dishwasher and worked my way up to sommelier and manager at Truffles. My next position was supposed to be as an F&B [Food and Beverage] director somewhere else in the Four Seasons chain.
The Love of Wine
"I then realized what I loved most about my job was the wine and I decided I couldn’t continue to be an armchair quarterback. I had to learn how to make it. So I wrote to a wine contact and did a vintage in Oregon and loved it. Then I did a vintage in South Africa at a small pinot noir and chardonnay focused house. I’d bought his wines at the Four Seasons and after the vintage they offered me a full time job, which I accepted on condition that I could go and do the vintage in Burgundy, which I did. All in all, I did four vintages in South Africa and three in Burgundy. Then I did two years in Central Otago in New Zealand with a fantastic winemaker at a company with the least glamorous name: The Central Otago Wine Company, commonly known as Cowco. We made wines for about 10 different wineries as contract winemakers [not bulk]. We had 65 fermenters going at one point, so a fantastic place to work – especially as the deal we had with the winemakers was that we made all the calls on the style, barrels, how we made it, when we picked and so on. It was up to us. I did that that for five months without a day off, and then I took a month off and went to Santa Barbara [California] to work for Au Bon Climat making pinot noir, chardonnay and Rhone varietals [syrah, grenache, mourvedre], which came in later. It made for a long vintage – started at the beginning of August and lasted until American Thanksgiving – but once again there was plenty of opportunity to work with a lot of styles." So: Hardie built up a solid background in his six years of training, and then he came home.
Coming Home
"I then decided to launch on my own but I wanted to find the ideal terroir. I looked a several sites in Niagara – and I think there are some fantastic sites in Niagara – and then someone said ‘have a look at Prince Edward County’. I took one look at the soil and said I’ve never seen soil like that outside of Burgundy, and said ‘OK, this is going to be my home’.” Hardie took the plunge in 2001.
"I then decided to launch on my own but I wanted to find the ideal terroir. I looked a several sites in Niagara – and I think there are some fantastic sites in Niagara – and then someone said ‘have a look at Prince Edward County’. I took one look at the soil and said I’ve never seen soil like that outside of Burgundy, and said ‘OK, this is going to be my home’.” Hardie took the plunge in 2001.
The County
So what's his view of the County now that he's been there seven years? “I would say Prince Edward County is on the third wave of investment now and I got in on the tail end of the first. Land prices have gone up significantly, but the reality of the wine industry [in Canada] is that land prices are pretty negligible in the grand scheme of things as there are so many other expenses.” Hardie then revealed a pleasant surprise: you can still get an acre of land there and a fair bit of change from $10,000. A Napa acre would cost you half a million dollars and a similar slice of Champagne about $600,000.
So what's his view of the County now that he's been there seven years? “I would say Prince Edward County is on the third wave of investment now and I got in on the tail end of the first. Land prices have gone up significantly, but the reality of the wine industry [in Canada] is that land prices are pretty negligible in the grand scheme of things as there are so many other expenses.” Hardie then revealed a pleasant surprise: you can still get an acre of land there and a fair bit of change from $10,000. A Napa acre would cost you half a million dollars and a similar slice of Champagne about $600,000.
There are caveats for urban professionals with some money to spare and an interest in wine, however. “In Prince Edward County," says Hardie," you really have to find the right site. You need good air drainage [i.e., wind] and you need to be close to the lake. Air drainage is important in case of late frosts in spring or early frosts in fall. If you’ve got a flat piece of land, the cold air just stops and sits there. With sloping or hilly land, the cold air always seeks the lowest spot. Proximity to the lake is important because it extends the frost-free season at both ends, and in the summer it keeps things slightly cooler than inland. We rarely go over 30/31 degrees Celsius. Vines operate best at about 28 degrees, and once it gets above 32, it just shuts down – above that temperature, nothing’s happening."
Niagara as Insurance Policy
Hardie initially used grapes from Niagara as it takes three years for a vineyard to produce a useable crop. "I am about 65% Prince Edward County grapes now and 35% Niagara. I’ve located several sites in Niagara and we’ve had great results from them and we will continue to use Niagara grapes. All three of my main varieties, chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot gris, come in at the same time in Prince Edward County. The nice thing about Niagara is that it comes in about two weeks earlier, so we can get a start on the vintage without having to do it all at once. It’s like in a restaurant, you don’t want all your reservations arriving at 7 o’clock. Plus we’ve had fantastic results from the Niagara fruit. The other reason Niagara is good is because we have a greater danger of a spring frost [possible up to mid-May, according to Benjamin Simmons, associate winemaker and viticulturalist] and it could wipe out our entire crop. Does that mean we leave our tanks empty for a whole year? No, because we’ve got that 35% coming from Niagara and we’ve got that relationship with the growers that we can get a bit more if we need it." Hardie's long term aim is to be about 70% County, 30% Niagara because he's aware that the County really is at the outer edge of vinifera viticulture: "It’s an insurance policy."
Hardie initially used grapes from Niagara as it takes three years for a vineyard to produce a useable crop. "I am about 65% Prince Edward County grapes now and 35% Niagara. I’ve located several sites in Niagara and we’ve had great results from them and we will continue to use Niagara grapes. All three of my main varieties, chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot gris, come in at the same time in Prince Edward County. The nice thing about Niagara is that it comes in about two weeks earlier, so we can get a start on the vintage without having to do it all at once. It’s like in a restaurant, you don’t want all your reservations arriving at 7 o’clock. Plus we’ve had fantastic results from the Niagara fruit. The other reason Niagara is good is because we have a greater danger of a spring frost [possible up to mid-May, according to Benjamin Simmons, associate winemaker and viticulturalist] and it could wipe out our entire crop. Does that mean we leave our tanks empty for a whole year? No, because we’ve got that 35% coming from Niagara and we’ve got that relationship with the growers that we can get a bit more if we need it." Hardie's long term aim is to be about 70% County, 30% Niagara because he's aware that the County really is at the outer edge of vinifera viticulture: "It’s an insurance policy."
Suitable Grapes
“I will never do cabernet sauvignon. In the part of Prince Edward County where we are, I just can’t see it working. Where we are it’s ideal for pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris. I’m also producing the melon de bourgogne but in small quantities.”
Pinot Gris as opposed to Grigio
"We get that slight rich oiliness of Alsace and then the freshness and vibrancy of the Alto Adige [Italy] when they label as ‘gris’ not ‘grigio’, as opposed to their more southern neighbours who do a more grigio style. With gris, you’re looking at something that’s richer and a little more textured. You’re still going to have the vibrancy, acidity and freshness but there’s going to be a lot more to the wine. I can’t say I’ve ever tasted a pinot grigio that’s blown me away, whereas I’ve had a lot of gris that have."
"Hilling"
If Niagara and the Okanagan are at the northern fringes of the winegrowing belt, Prince Edward County is over the line. No six or eight foot tall vines here. They crop very low to the ground because of what they need to do every winter: bury the vines. It’s called “hilling” and, after the grapes have been harvested by late October/early November, the canes (or shoots) that will form the vines the next year are selected, then most of the plant is buried. “We know that at times we do get down to –25 or –28, which is absolutely deadly,” says Hardie. It’s not only labour intensive and time-sensitive (have to beat the first snowfall), they have to reverse it all in the spring, “de-hilling” in mid-April. Other than in Quebec, which is even colder and where hardier hybrid grapes are grown, hilling is not done anywhere else. Fortunately, says Hardie, the lighter, looser limestone-rich soil of the County makes it fairly easy to do.
Hardie's Wines by Hardie
"The 06 chardonnay is drinking very Burgundian right now. It’s lean but very flavourful. The 06 pinot is not like the 05, which you can lay down for 5-7 years, it’s ready now and will be good for the next couple of years. That makes it really accessible to a lot restaurants: they can have it now." The 07 chardonnays will be available by the end of the summer as they are still in barrel. Hardie uses French oak barrels, but the wines are not overly oaky: “our wines are more mineral driven. It tastes like Old World chard.”
Hardie's Wines by Me
2007 Pinot Gris. $25
Very aromatic nose of fresh white fruit, peaches and a slight hint of tropical. Smooth on the palate and with good acidity, so quite fresh. There's a bit of "oiliness" in the mid-palate and then a nice lingering finish with a bit of apple. 88 points
2007 Pinot Gris. $25
Very aromatic nose of fresh white fruit, peaches and a slight hint of tropical. Smooth on the palate and with good acidity, so quite fresh. There's a bit of "oiliness" in the mid-palate and then a nice lingering finish with a bit of apple. 88 points
2006 Chardonnay. $35
The very dark nose is off-putting at first but this seems to clear soon enough. I should have asked Norman if the nose was typical. In any case, there's great acidity on the smooth palate, which has nice smoky notes from the oak. The light white fruit comes to the fore gradually, with apple and lemon, which carries through nicely onto the finish, which has some smoke at the end. Very Old World style chard here. 88/89 points
The very dark nose is off-putting at first but this seems to clear soon enough. I should have asked Norman if the nose was typical. In any case, there's great acidity on the smooth palate, which has nice smoky notes from the oak. The light white fruit comes to the fore gradually, with apple and lemon, which carries through nicely onto the finish, which has some smoke at the end. Very Old World style chard here. 88/89 points
2006 Pinot Noir. $39
Light ruby colour. Bold fruity nose of cherries with a slightly jammy quality and there's a nice hint of earthiness under. Very elegant and "feminine" on the palate, which has lots of bright red cherry and berry fruit. Good tannic structure and a lovely lingering finish that adds a note of perfume. Terrific. 90 points.
Light ruby colour. Bold fruity nose of cherries with a slightly jammy quality and there's a nice hint of earthiness under. Very elegant and "feminine" on the palate, which has lots of bright red cherry and berry fruit. Good tannic structure and a lovely lingering finish that adds a note of perfume. Terrific. 90 points.
2007 Melon de Bourgogne. $19
Hardie's one of only two producers of this grape in Ontario. It's the grape used to make Muscadet in the Loire Valley, one of France's coolest climate winegrowing areas: so it's a shoo-in for the chilly County. Fresh and clean on the palate, the acidity's high but nicely balanced with the sharp white fruit, including Asian pear and other light fruit notes. Seems a little more complex than a Muscadet. 88 points.
Hardie's one of only two producers of this grape in Ontario. It's the grape used to make Muscadet in the Loire Valley, one of France's coolest climate winegrowing areas: so it's a shoo-in for the chilly County. Fresh and clean on the palate, the acidity's high but nicely balanced with the sharp white fruit, including Asian pear and other light fruit notes. Seems a little more complex than a Muscadet. 88 points.
Robert Mondavi Vertical @ Fairmont Royal York. April 28
Robert Mondavi recently died, at age 94, and the winery has released an obituary of the great American winemaker.
Napa Valley pioneer Robert Mondavi struck out on his own after a breach with his family in the mid-1960s and was among the first people to start making "serious" wine in the then-sleepy backwater of Napa. His best wines are definitely worth waiting for.
Dedicated to the highest quality from the beginning, Mondavi followed European traditions of studying the land and winemaking techniques to get the best results - and creating wines of different levels of quality (i.e., keeping the best separate). Today, his wines come in three categories: Napa Valley Wines at entry level, $20 to $30, District Wines from specific vineyards at around $30 - $50, Reserve Wines from the best hand-sorted grapes at around $125 for the cabernet (US prices).
Mark De Vere, resident Master of Wine at Robert Mondavi winery, was in town to host a vertical tasting of cabernet reserves as part of the California Wine Fair.
Originally from Oxford, De Vere has been in Napa with Mondavi winery since the mid-90s and was a great guide to take us through the tasting. He gave background information on vintages, blends of other grapes (some include cab franc, for example) as well as a summary of different vintages.
De Vere spoke a little about rising percentages of alcohol in California's wines and, surprisingly, did not blame global warming. "We just don't know why," he concluded after pointing out that wines made after hot summers 20 or so years ago had lower alcohol levels than wines made in cooler summers recently. Because California's labelling laws require wineries to state which side of 14% their products are on, there is a lot of figure-fudging to keep it lower. Not naming any names, De Vere said he observed a lab test of eight wines to determine adherence: "two out of the eight wines were compliant on the alcohol labelling," he said. That said, De Vere feels higher alcohol wines can age well "if balanced properly." If a wine is not well balanced, the alcohol can become more noticeable over time, giving it a "hot" (as in "firewater") edge.
Rising alcohol levels are not just talk: note the steady climb in alcohol levels on Mondavi's finest: the same wine made from the same grapes from the same vineyards rises from 12.7 to 15% over a 17-year period. Very curious.
The Wines
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1987
This was a highly rated vintage and it has stood the test of time. Dark ruby colour, with just a little bit of orange on the rim (an age-giveaway: the more orange/brown, the older), so it looks younger than it is. Rich and still-fruity nose, but with great secondary notes of herbal over jammy berry fruit, cassis. Very mouth filling, with lots of acidity. Not too fruity on the palate, which has nice cedar notes and a bit of iodine. The acidity is still very fresh and the overall feel is super smooth. The finish is excellent and lingers. A terrific wine. 94 points. (12.7% alc.)
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1993
Just a hint of orange on the rim of this one as well - is the fountain of youth in Napa? Mature nose of dried fruit, with a rich cooked quality (but in a good way). There's some bell pepper in there too, and it turns out this one has cab franc in the blend. Big fresh palate, with muted but ripe cherry fruit and great secondary notes of tobacco and cigar box. There are more tannic and darker notes in the middle, and a great finish, that lingers. 91 points. (13.8% alc.)
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1997
Rich red colour with another slight hint of orange. The nose had lots of dark red fruit with a slightly cooked note and was more muted than expected. Big and fresh surprise on the palate though - lots of big red fruit, including blackberries, again with a slightly stewed character, and yet a smooth, supple elegance. Gentle secondary notes like cigar box and cedar provide a great underpinning in both the middle and the lengthy, lingering finish. 93 points. (alc. n/a)
De Vere told us that the 97 was "highly rated when it first came out, but then it went through a dumb phase, but it's definitely come out of that now, and just recently too." Nothing dumb about it is far as I was concerned - though perhaps the fact that the nose was more muted than expected is a legacy of the "dumb" phase.
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001
Deep ruby colour, no orange at all on the rim even though it's entering its seventh year... Rich fruity nose with some great secondary notes of pine and cedar. Very mouth-filling, with lots of dark red fruit, all fresh. Secondary notes include tobacco and a hint of mint. Even though it's a big New World cab with lots of fruit, the overall feel is relatively delicate. This one contains 10% cab franc, which I suspect is responsible for some of the secondary notes and the lighter than expected mid-palate. 92 points. (14.6% alc.)
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004
Bright red ruby all the way through on the baby of the bunch. Big full nose of dark red fruit, and notes of cough candy and vanilla too. Super rich on the palate, which is packed full of red berry fruit. Not a huge amount of secondary notes, but that's probably due to the relative youth of this one. Tannins are high and acidity is about medium. Some other, darker flavours emerged and continued into the decent finish and included notes of tar. 91 points. (15% alc.)
Availability
Unfortunately, it's not that easy to get older vintages. But according to the LCBO website, there is a tiny amount of 1998 available: four bottles in Port Carling, two at Meadowvale Town Centre and one bottle at Rideau St. in Ottawa. Price: $167.60. The 2004 will be released later this year at a price TBD, but probably around $150. Contact agents Churchill Cellars for more information. Tel: 416-368-5108.
How gay? Well, it's not only pink, its name is pansy. Or rather, Pansy!
Kim Crawford's wife's name is Erica. He's not a lesbian and neither is she, but they have a lot of gay friends and have for many years enjoyed a drink at a local Auckland gay bar. On a visit to Toronto last summer, Erica Crawford explained the name: "One night there was a group of us and someone said 'you should make a gay wine' and someone else said 'yeah, and it's gotta be called Pansy!"
Pansy! is quite probably the only "gay" wine in the world but, "it wasn't at all thought through or researched," said Erica. "We just did it. Gays have always been in my life. When I lived in Cape Town I shared a flat with a flaming queen from the Bronx."
For winemaker Kim Crawford it was obvious that a "gay" wine should be a rosé and he made the first one in 2002. The grapes vary from year to year and are sometimes blends - the 2007 is all merlot, for example.
Another of Kim Crawford's wines sounds suspiciously like a nightclub where the homosexually inclined might be found dancing with their shirts off, but that's not why it's called "Boyszone". The name is in fact a memorial to one of the Crawfords' main grape grower's sons. The family had four boys, all of whom helped out in the vineyard. The youngest, then 19 years old, was using a tractor on a hillside when it tipped over, pinned him down and he died. The block of vines he was working on had been managed exclusively by the boys and was called the "boys' zone". Kim Crawford has named the pinot gris that comes from it Boyszone in his honour.
At the recent New Zealand Wine Fair at the Design Exchange, four Kim Crawford wines were on display. Though he's well known for his fine sauvignon blanc, which is a Vintages Essential and is usually in good supply, Crawford was showing off some of his others.
Pansy! and other wines by Kim Crawford
Pansy! Rosé 2007. $16.95
Gisborne, North Island
Bright pink colour and a bold nose of red berry fruit and a hint of floral. This merlot-based rosé has zippy acidity and lighter red fruit, though it's quite full bodied. Nicely smooth, there's a bit of a sweet note detectable and there's a nice long finish. 88 points.
Boyszone Pinot Gris 2006. $29.70
Marlborough, South Island
Characteristic pinot gris here - muted but aromatic nose with ripe peach/pear notes. Very fresh and lively on the palate, which has lots more fruit, including some tropical notes. Fairly full bodied with a great mouthfeel and a nice finish. 89 points
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2007. $19.95
Marlborough, South Island
Fruitier nose, more in your face. Tropical notes of papaya and pineapple. Very full and fruity on the palate, which shows some plum notes too. OK finish. 88 points.
Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2007. $24.95
Marlborough, South Island
Quite fruity nose for a chardonnay, with lemon, apple and pineapple, and even a floral note too. Super full and ripe on the palate, which of course has no oak notes: this is pure chardonnay at its fruitiest, so if you want to take it bare, no oak masking it, this is the one to try for the fruit flavours. 89 points.
>>>
Pansy! is available now and there's a bit of Boyszone kicking around. To check availability near you, copy the name of the wine and paste it into the product search window in the top left corner of this page.
The others should be available soon, or contact Crawford's Ontario agent colin.brodie@vincor.ca for more information or to order.
Bouchard & Fils @ Royal Canadian Yacht Club, April 17
Luc Bouchard of Bouchard & Fils.
In business - and run by the Bouchard family - since 1731, Bouchard & Fils is one of the finest and most reliable producers in Burgundy. They only do what they do best: chardonnay and pinot noir. To find out more about the company and its history, visit their website.
I wish I could say that they are not on the ball financially at Bouchard & Fils and that the best one is the cheapest, but I can't. There seems to me a pretty solid correlaton between price and quality...
All wines by Bouchard & Fils, and all are the 2006 vintage.
The White Burgundies
Bourgogne Les Coteaux de Moines. $29
Muted nose of white fruit. Smooth and fresh on the palace. Acidity is crisp and the fruit flavours are there, but muted on the palate. Elegant. 89 points.
Mersault Les Clos. $61
Lovely nose of floral and oaky notes. Super smooth and elegant on the palate. Very clean and with some minerality too. Acidity rises nicely towards the finish, which includes butterscotch. 93 points.
Mersault Les Gouttes D'Or. $114
Richer nose with light fruit and butterscotch. Very rich yet fresh on the palate. Smoky notes and butter and a super smooth fresh finish that just goes on. 94 points.
Mersault Genievrieres. $114
More muted nose with smoky oak dominating. Rich and smooth on the palate, which has more smoky notes over white fruit. Fuller body. Terrific lingering finish that stays fresh. 95 points
Mersault Perrieres. $117
Smooth and complex nose, mineral notes as well as oak inspired notes of butter and toast. Super smooth and elegant on the palate. Perfect acidity, incredible finish. 95 points.
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Corton-Charlemagne
One of the most famous white Burgundies, Corton-Charlemagne is "the best of the best" grand cru areas for chardonnay. Divided between the communes of Ladoix-Serrigny and Aloxe-Corton in the Cote de Beaune, there are a number of producers, and all of their wines are pricey. Bouchard's delivers both the high price and superb quality expected.
Corton-Charlemagne. $200
Super clean and fresh nose with lots of light white fruit aromas and maybe some honey notes too. Super smooth and medium-full on the palate with a sleek and delicate mix of flavours, including lemon and toast. Excellent lingering finish. I wrote "as good as it gets". 96 points
Montrachet
Another famous sub-district of Burgundy, Montrachet is also in the Cote de Beaune and is split into two areas - Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Hint: don't pronounce either "t". Bouchard's is from Puligny-Montrachet.
Chevalier-Montrachet. $394
Very rich yet fresh nose with muted floral notes as well. Fresh and punchy on the palate, even though the white fruit notes are very rich. There's some toast and butter in there too and the expected great, lengthy finish. 96 points.
The Red Burgundies
Bourgogne Les Couteaus des Moines. $29
Somewhat closed nose, but the rich red fruit is there, including cherries and cassis. Smooth and easy on the palate, the red fruit carries through, though again muted. Nice finish. 88 points.
Beaune Clos de la Mousse. $65
Very ripe nose with good red fruit and a slight animal note. Super smooth on the palate, which is full of fresh cherry fruit. Should become more complex as it ages Good finish. 91 points
Beaune Teurons. $64
Muted nose with dark red fruit and nice oaky notes evident. Super smooth on the palate, which is light even though the tannins are still high. Very muted and elegant red berry fruit, this one will get better as the tannins calm down. 92 points.
Volnay Caillerets. $96
Lovely pale ruby colour. Very fruity and spicy nose followed by lots and lots of dark red fruit on the palate. Acidity and tannins are both very high - and evident - so this one really isn't ready yet. It will age beautifully - hang on to it for three or more years and then try it. 93 points.
Volnay Clos de Chenes. $78
Rich nose of dark red fruit with some nice earthiness developing. Fresh on the palate, which is lightly fruity with lots of toasty, woody notes. Seriously nice finish that lingers. 94 points.
Gevrey-Chambertin. $62
Fresher and more intense nose of bright red fruit - there's even a slight candy note, which is usually bad, but which is good here. Earthy secondary notes are emerging nicely and acidity and tannins are still high - this will develop into a classic Burgundy pinot. Buy some and cellar it for a few years. 93 points.
Chambole-Musigny. $68
Super pale ruby colour. Quite fruity nose with little secondary development as yet. Super smooth and elegant on the palate, which is very fruity and has some spicy notes. Tannins and acidity still high, this is a terriic Burg that will age well. Loved this one and, relatively speaking, a bargain. 94 points.
Nuits -Saint-Georges Les Cailles. $126
The wistful memory of the lovely dinner at a cool yet "neighbourhood" restaurant in the 11th Arrondisement when it was just getting trendy, at which I first tasted a Nuits-Saint-George, means I pretty much love every wine from the commune. I loved M. Bouchard's effort too. Rich bold nose of dark red fruit with some nice secondary notes under. Richer than expected on the palate, where there's plenty more fruit and the secondary notes are just getting started. Acidity and tannins both high still, this one will be better in a few years. 93 points.
Clos-Vougeot. $210
Very elegantly pale ruby, which foreshadows the muted nose of lighter red fruit. There are already some earthy secondary notes under, but also muted. Acidity and tannins are high but balanced and there's smooth dark red fruit on the palate. Little secondary development yet, but this should be very fine indeed in a couple of years or more. Great finish. 94 points.
The wines of Bouchard Pere & Fils are distributed by Woodman Wines & Spirits. Call 416-767-5114 or visit their website.
Austrian Wines @ Rosehill Venue Lounge, April 15
The annual Austrian Trade Wine Fair rolled into town and of course had more than gruner veltliner on offer, but this is a focused report. The event was big and well attended, and a decent cross section of Austrian wines were available.
Austria is a cool climate region, with most of the wines produced in the less mountainous east of the country - actually pretty much along the borders with Slovakia, Hungary and Slovenia. There are lighter bodied reds like Blaufränkisch (Lemberger in Germany) and Zwiegelt, which can be nice if, well, which can be nice... but Austria does best with whites. Look for decent rieslings and, most importantly as it's the country's signature varietal, gruner veltliner.
Gruner Veltliner
It doesn't trip off the English tongue and sounds a bit like a diagnosis for a foot condition, but gruner veltliner is a terrific, zesty white. Usually very well priced, it's Vienna's white wine of choice. Gruner characteristics include the higher acidity and lower alcohol you'd expect from a cool climate, and typical fruit expressions include apple, honeydew melon, yellow plum and lemon. There are also often spicy and floral notes, and the overall feel is light and fresh.
It's a great summer/patio/sipping wine and would make a logical change from sauvignon blanc if you're looking for something similarly fresh and sharp, but, you know, different. Most of these are not available on a retail basis, but I include the notes to give a flavour of the styles of gruner velt. Excepting the first selection, prices, where available, are either estimates or the consigment price for restaurants when purchased by the case.
Sal'Mon Groovy Gruner Veltliner 2007. $12.95 (Vintages Release, May 24)
Krems
Well it's a clumsy attempt to join the fading "critter wine" trend ("I love salmon fish! They're so cute!"), and don't know what's up with the "groovy" as "gruner velt" is the abbreviation of choice here... Anyway, this wine would actually go well with salmon, among other fish. Great characteristic nose with aromatic/floral notes and fresh citrus. The acidity is there, but it stays smooth on the palate, which has some yellow plum fruit. Dry, crisp and an OK finish. A good intro to Gruner Veltliner at a great price. 87 points.
High End Gruners
Nicolaihof Gruner Veltliner 2005. $28.95
Wachau
Here's the high end - a richer and darker nose, though the spice and aromatics are there. Light and fresh on the palate though, with great acidity, nice lemon fruit and a terrific lingering finish. 90 points.
Nicolaihof Gruner Veltliner 2006. $69.95
Wachau
Muted nose, but rich with white fruit. Smooth and fresh on the palate with great acidity, good structure and a lively finish with a bit of toast on the finish, which lingers. 90 points.
Weingut Angerer Kurt Gruner Veltliner 2007.
Kamptal
Beautiful fresh nose with spicy notes as well as floral. Rich on the palate with good white fruit and some nice complexity under, good acidity keeping things fresh. Nice finish. 88 points
Weingut Durnberg Gruner Veltliner 2007. $12-14 (no Ont. representation yet: advice to agents - sign them up!)
Weinviertel
Their entry level gruner is everything it should be: fresh, simple and fun. Lots of acidity, clean fresh taste, a muted but decent amount of fruit and a nice finish. A great bet for restaurants to buy on consigment: triple the price of this one no problem. 87 points.
Weingut Durnberg Gruner Veltliner 2007. $14-15
Weinviertel
Fresh and lively nose with lemon and white fruit. Rich and fruity on the palate with more lemon notes over a solid amount of white fruit. Nice finish. 88 points
Winzer Krems Sandgrube 13 Gruner Veltliner 2007. $11
Niederosterreich
Fresh light nose with white fruit and floral notes. Good acidity. This one's a little low key all round, but a good introduction to the grape. OK finish. 86 points
Winzer Krems Sandgrube 13 Edition Chremisa Gruner Veltliner 2007. $20
Niederosterreich
Lovely muted nose with spicy and mineral notes. Nice body with a richer, softer palate. It's still fresh though, with some lemon notes and yellow plum. Nice finish. 89 points.
Weingut Loimer Gruner Veltliner 2007. $28
Kamptal
The expected fresh and fruity nose with floral notes on this pricier example of the grape. Rich and fruity on the palate - definitely more full bodied than most, which perhaps explains the price. The heavier fruit is balance by creat acidity and there's a nice finish with a hint of spiciness. 88 points.
Weingut Polsterer Gruner Veltliner 2007. $16.50
Wagram
Fresh and spicy nose with white fruit and floral notes as well. Fresh and lively on the palate, though a bit round. A good match with mild cheese. OK finish. 87 points
Weingut Allram Range - $22 to 25.
Alte Reben Strasser Hasel Klassik Gruner Veltliner 2007. Nice nose of rich white fruit, fresh and zesty on the palate. Very light bodied and the alcohol is a bit evident. OK finish. 87 points.
Strasser Gaisberg Klassik Gruner Veltliner 2007. Very fresh nose with apple, plum and spice. Full on the palate, which has more floral and spice. A bit simple, but very nice. OK finish. 88 points.
Strasser Gaisberg Klassik Gruner Veltliner 2006. Lightly aromatic nose with muted floral notes. Fairly full on the palate with muted white fruit, lemon notes and good acidity. The alcohol again is a bit evident, but nice finish. 88 points.
Strasser Gaisberg Klassik Gruner Veltliner 2005. Smoother, richer nose with more muted floral aromas. Acidity very fresh still and more floral notes and a bit of citrus on the palate. OK finish. 88 points.
Weingut Zahel Gruner Veltliner 2006. $19.40
Wien
A capital example from the capital. Bolder nose with lots of white fruit and a bit of spice. Smooth and rich on the palate, but the fresh acidity is there. Apple fruit and nice lemon notes too. Good finish. 89 points.
Weingut Leth Gruner Veltliner Klassik 2007.
Wagram
Very muted nose of light white fruit. There's a bit of an undertone on the palate, but good acidity and some spiciness. OK finish. 87 points.
Weingut Leth Gruner Veltliner Brunnthal Reserve 2007
Wagram
Very muted nose on this one, made with grapes from 35-40 year old vines and harvested later than usual. It's richer on the palate, and though the alcohol is 13.5%, it's not obvious. There is some white fruit and lemon too. OK finish. 87 points.
Weingut Manfred Felsner Gruner Veltliner Moosburgerin 2007. $19
Neiderosterreich
Light, fruity nose with honeydew melon and apple. Fresh, smooth, light. Good acidity, OK finish. 87 points
Weingut Manfred Felsner Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben 2007. $25
Neiderosterreich
Manfred's step up is more muted on the nose and richer on the palate. There's nice fresh green apple fruit on the palate, good acidity and a nicer finish. 88 points.
Italian Wines @ InQuattro Fashion Group, Yorkville, April 14
The event was Italian, so the great fashion was no surprise. And the food was ... sushi.
The InQuattro fashion emporium is an odd cross between a high end fashion boutique and an office: the periphery of the big old converted church on Hazelton Avenue is a well laid out display of Europe's top names in fashion: Versace, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Dirk Bikkembergs and others, while the centre is glass cubicle offices. Odd. No cash tills were evident, so it's probably not a retail outlet.
The fashionistas were there in force: tall and beautiful models, including a gaggle of chatty Russian girls, well-dressed older women, thirtysomething gays in elaborately "edgy" outfits better suited to their twentysomething counterparts (if only they could afford them...) and the inevitable accessory of any moneyed event: straight men in conservative suits.
The wine selection was small and very inexpensive. But interesting. The idea was to show some Italian wines that work well with sushi. Here are my two favourites:
Fondo Antico 2005 Grillo Parlante $14.85 (at Vintages)
In the original Italian version of Pinnochio, the "grillo parlante" was just that: the talking cricket. Walt Disney called him Jiminy Cricket. Grillo (the double l's equal "y" in Italian) is also the name of the grape is used, along with catarratto bianco, to make marsala. However, that rich fortified Sicilian wine has fallen out of favour in the market and now grillo is being made into a dry wine.
This wine has a rich almost golden colour and an interesing aroma, including floral notes. On the palate, it's both full bodied and very dry. There's a good amount of ripe white fruit and decent acidity. OK finish. It worked well enough with the sushi, but it's just fine on its own. 88 points.
Zenato 2006 Bardolino Chiaretto (Rosé) $12.85 (at Vintages)
Fairly bright orange-pink colour on this nice full rosé. Lots of fruit, including cherries and red berries, but nicely dry. Acidity level is good and there's a nice lingering finish with more fruit and a nutty note. Although rosés are never expensive, this represents particularly good value. 88 points.
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