The Taittinger caves are just as massive as the other big houses - the guide informed me that there are over four kilometres of tunnels - but they boast more artfully rendered arches and mysterious stone stairwells. And most impressive of all are the ancient Roman excavations which intrude at certain points: huge v-shaped incisions into the chalk, with the bottles stored at the bottom. In some places they are up to 40 metres deep, which creates soaring underground chambers. They didn't photograph well, so you'll just have to go see them for yourself. Bring a jacket though: it's only 8C down there.
Taittinger traces its history back to the early 18th century, but that original winery became Taittinger only in the early 20th century, when Pierre-Charles Taittinger acquired it. Today his grandson, Pierre-Emmanuel, runs the company. The original philosophy was to have chardonnay as the dominant grape in the blend, and this is still true today. Most of the Taittinger chardonnay comes from the superior Cote des Blancs zone.
The Champagnes of Taittinger
Nicolas Bailly, a genial Taittinger oenologue originally from Paris, led me through the tasting. When I asked him what he thought of the new “zero brut” unsweetened champagnes, he smiled slightly said “c’est de la mode”, and then told me that Taittinger had one called “Brut Absolute” on the market for a while in the 1970s. Plus ca change…
Taittinger Brut Reserve NV
Contrary to the house philosophy, this one is only 40% chardonnay, the rest pinot. It has a light gold colour with lots of medium sized bubbles. Attractive muted nose of honey with some bread notes and a bit of fruitiness. On the palate there’s an explosion of bubbles and more honeyed apple fruit. I detected a sweeter edge and Nicolas informed me that there is 10g of residual sugar. This terrific house blend also has a nice touch of citrus on the finish. 90 points.
Taittinger Prelude NV
This grands crus champagne is 50/50, and the grapes come only from the “100%” (or Grand Cru) vineyards, and it’s made using only the free run juice from the first pressing. And it shows: Interestingly different nose here, with even a few smoky notes. Another big mouthful – vibrant bubbles and lots of nice fruit, including darker, redder fruit from the pinot. Rich tasting. Very harmonious blend of flavours and a great finish of good length, in which some buttery , yeasty notes join the fruit. 93 points.
Comtes de Champagne 1998
Taittinger made the most of this good year with the Comtes de Champagne – it’s in a different, older style of bottle: squatter and rounder. Lots of tiny bubbles and a richer, darker colour. Surprisingly delicate nose with bready, nutty notes and a little bit of vanilla. Beautiful on the palate and the vanilla hint carries through (I asked if there was oak aging involved and Nicolas said yes, but only on a portion of the blend). This one is also a little on the sweet side, but it blends very well with the fruit and there is a lovely long finish I noted as “complex and interesting”. Yum. 94 points.
Oy! What about trendy Ayala?
