A very glamorous PR lady – a Reims local – took me on a tour of the production facilities, which feature a lengthy, multi-levelled and quite Byzantine circuit that takes the champagne from the tanks to the shrink-wrapped (and addressed) packages for delivery to customers. A big stack of boxes were ready to be shipped to Woolworth’s in Melbourne.
Lanson has exactly one hectare under vine at its headquarters. It's great for seeing exactly how big one hectare is - this picture shows slightly over half of it...
Joining the newest trend in Champagne, Lanson is developing “La Cuvee Clos Lanson”, made only from the grapes grown on their one hectare. A number of other producers have jumped on the “single vineyard” bandwagon, though purists suggest this is counter to the tradition of Champagne, which is all about the blend. Lanson’s effort was just begun this year, so give it about four or five years.
The tour also included a look at the caves, which were extensive tunnels with alcoves, one of which had a bust of the virgin Mary in it, full of massive numbers of champagne bottles quietly aging. Following the tour, I was led to a tasting room and met by the very professorial Jean-Paul Gandon, smartly dressed in a jacket and tie. It was a very serious lecture, in which I learned that Lanson does not do the malolactic fermentation that gives a rounder, softer flavour: they prefer to keep the acidity. Gandon of course had encyclopedic knowledge of both Lanson and champagne, and was an excellent guide to the tasting. Afterwards, I dined with two genial Lanson representatives at the Reims branch of Brasserie Flo. Of course we had champagne with the delicious meal, which started with a huge platter of langoustines on ice.
The Champagnes of Lanson
Lanson Black Label Brut
The brand’s flagship, Black Label (en anglais) accounts for a whopping 80% of production. Expect a rich nose with a bit of biscuit and a hint of oxidative notes. Very big mouthful of bubbles. Acidity is high, and it’s fresh with some red berry fruit notes from the 50% pinot noir. There’s also some nice apple fruit and a good lingering finish with lots more fruit. Monsieur Gandon said Lanson aims for three things in its Black Label: Fruit, Puissance (power), et Fraicheur (freshness). They succeed. 90 points.
Lanson Brut Rose
Lots of red berry fruit on the nose. Super pale orange-pink colour – very elegant looking. Not too fruity on the palate, lots of fresh acidity and a good mousse. Everything resolves nicely into a finish that comes together well, with light red fruity notes dominating. 91 points.
Noble Cuvee Blanc de Blanc 1997
M. Gandon said the philosophy behind this vintage champagne was delicacy over power, and that its “architecture” is “gothic”. Well! Lovely pale yellow/gold colour and lots of tiny bubbles. There’s a very mature nose with some yeasty, nutty notes over a little mature red fruit. Rich yet fresh on the palate, with good complexity, and citrus notes emerge. It all comes together nicely on the finish, which suddenly offers some cantelope. Quite elegant. 92 points.
Noble Cuvee Blanc de Blanc 1998
Much lighter and fresher, even though just a year younger. Not too much in the way of biscuit or yeast on the nose. Big mouthful of fine mousse on the palate, which has very muted fruit, including appealing citrus notes. Very delicate and balanced finish. Very refined and elegant. 94 points.
Noble Cuvee Brut 1998
This is made from 30% grand cru noir and it shows: very pronounced nose of aged characteristics, including some nuttiness and lots of dark red fruit. This is followed by a big mouthful of red fruit, nicely balanced with the mature notes. There’s also a truly great finish, which lingers and has a pleasantly sweet edge. 94 points
Noble Cuvee Rose
This non-vintage version is every bit as good and careful attention is paid to the assemblage to keep it consistent – usually 60% chardonnay, 40% pinot, only from grand cru vineyards. Perfect salmon pink colour and lots of bubbles: this one’s fun. Rich red fruit on the nose, which has a very fresh feel. Great complexity on the palate, with fruit mingling nicely with muted yeasty, nutty flavours. Super fresh acidity carries it to a very persistent finish, which stays in balance. 94 points.
Lanson Brut 1997
It just keeps getting better: great mature nose with lots of good fruit over the hint of vanilla and maybe hazelnut too. Big mouthful with a lot of power – aged apple and red fruit notes, great acidity, nicely balanced, and a superb finish of red and yellow fruit. 95 points.
Lanson Brut 1983
Step back in time to what can be a danger zone for champagnes – many start to lose their structure (and bubbles) after 15 years or so. This certainly has a very mature nose with not to much fruit and some surprising spicy notes. Very tiny bubbles, but lots of them, so this is “moins petillant”. I detected an odd “split” on the palate that made the relatively muted acidity seem separate somehow from the aged fruit flavours. It all comes together on the finish though, which is amazingly complex, with mainly secondary notes but some fruit too. Gandon recommends this with rich, gamey meats. 93 points.
On to medieval grandeur and sweetness at Taittinger.
