Alain de Sacy’s family has owned and lived on the same land in the Grand Cru village of Verzy, just beside the Montagne de Riems national park, since 1633. Alain, a self-confessed “non-academic” guy, wasn’t happy in school as a teenager. His father agreed to his dropping out provided he went to work on the land. Not only did Alain go to work on the land, he developed an aptitude for champagne production (entirely by observing and participating rather than learning it at college), and went on to buy more land, eventually launching his own brand.
With 20 hectares of land under his control, Alain created a marque based on his ancestor Louis de Sacy, who looks alarmingly like Louis XIV, bouffant hair, luxurious red jacket and all. However Alain’s not some uptight slave to tradition: he was thrilled to point out the very modern TGV zooming to Strasbourg along the bottom of the valley below his hill. No Prince Charles obsession with the old ways for him. When I asked Alain if he lived in the grand and spacious house, he rolled his eyes and said he lived in Reims (a busy, mid-sized city with plenty of traffic and diversions). When I expressed surprise, he said “It’s nice here, but imagine it at night. In November.” I understood immediately.
Alain’s modernity extends to his wines. He has recently launched his “Cuvee Nue” (“nude vintage”), which contains no added sugar at all: just the grapes. All champagne, by tradition, includes a “dosage” of added still wine mixed with sugar to counter the effect of the high acidity and sometimes not-quite-ripe grapes, and to boost alcohol levels. It’s a bold step to drop the dosage. I was nervous about the acidity, fearing unpleasant sharpness, but Alain de Sacy has made it work.
The Louis de Sacy Champagnes
Sacy Grand Cru
Rich nose of dark red fruit, which follows through on the palate. Smooth and relatively light, this is a very drinkable “assemblage” in the traditional champagne style. There’s decent complexity and a good finish. 89 points.
Le Rose Grand Cru
This light and fruity rose is dry on the palate and has plenty of red fruit. There’s good acidity and it’s medium bodied. It’s fine in the middle, but the finish is a bit short and ever so slightly cloying. 87 points
Cuvee Grand Soir Vintage 2001
Serious vintage nose of darker aromas, including nuttiness and some butter. The fruit is there, but again with an aged quality. Good complexity and body, well balanced and with a fine finish. 90 points.
Cuvee Nue (Zero Brut)
Lively and pronounced nose with lots of fruit. On the palate there’s a good amount of red fruit. The acidity is as high as expected and there’s some astringency too. However the generosity of the red fruit powers over it, reconquering towards the finish after the initial shock. It all comes together very agreeably. A great aperitif, I’d say. 89 points.
Cuvee Nue features full frontal nudity - the label is on the back and can only be read through the bottle.
Louis de Sacy products are available in Ontario through the wine import agency Toast! Inc.
tel 416-939-0217
fax 416-967-5958
email: sacycanada@rogers.com
Carry on to the British royal family favourite of Lanson.
