The Nugans used to be known for vast quantities of carrot juice, but the third generation of the family has made its mark more recently with wine, establishing a winery in 2001. With its commitment to high quality at low prices, Nugan has done well in Canada, which is now the company's third largest export market. Even as we remarked on the low prices (starting around $12), Tiffany Nugan pointed out that Canada is a key target market because "your average spend per bottle here is so much higher. We love it!" Canada as a nation of oenophiles ready to splash out - fancy that!

The food at Flow was a great accompaniment: smart-looking waiters circulated with creative canapes and then we sat down to dinner, which included items like cayenne crusted beef tenderloin with grilled key lime, pulled duck confit and polenta terrine with shaved truffle and port reduction and, my favourite, japanese veal tenderloin with spring onion compote and forbidden black rice. My guess is the black rice is called "forbidden" because it's too good: wow! was my first thought when I discovered it under the meat... here's what wikipedia says.

The Wines (prices approximate in some cases)
Nugan Estate Third Generation Chardonnay 2006. ~$12
Fresh classic chard nose with a gentle amount of oak evident. Crisp acdity and great fruit on the palate, smooth, not much evidence of the oak and great fresh finish. Alcohol level is a bit high (14%) and it squeaks through a little more than it should.... 86 points.

Cookoothama King Valley Riesling 2006. [not currently available]
Great riesling nose - petrol, glycerine and some fruit under. Acid is nice and crisp and it's fruity on the palate. Alcohol also a bit evident here - must be the Aussie heat - but the wine ends with a great lemon finish. 87 points.

Cookoothama Chardonnay 2006. $14.20
When a well-known wine writer at the table said "Niblets corn", he hit the nail on the head and I was back in Mom's kitchen in the 70s (we actually ate canned vegetables). They used a tremendous amount of oak on this one, so butter, vanilla, cedar and butterscotch are all there. Even some nutmeg too, and an alluring smoky quality. The acidity is high so the feel is fresh and there's a bit of citrus, but this one's all about the wood. 87 points.

Cookoothama Cabernet Merlot 2005. <$15 ** BEST VALUE **
Bold nose with lots of dark red fruit and some great layers of secondary notes, including tobacco. Great New World fruit on the palate and very smooth mouthfeel with a nice amount of oak and moderate tannins. Decent finish. 87 points.

Cookoothama Shiraz 2005. $14.20
Fairly big Aussie shiraz with some nice spicy notes on the ripe, fruity nose. Full bodied and pretty smooth on the palate, with plenty of dark red fruit and some nice undertones/secondary development from the oak. 86 points.

Nugan Estate, Coonawarra, Alcira Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. ~$22
Terrific cab nose on this one with lots of dark red fruit and a Bordeaux-style hint of iodine. Full and ripe on the palate, with blackberry and a pleasant hint of mint. The nicely balanced oak treatment and well-underway aging give some subtle secondary development notes. OK finish. 88 points.

Cookoothama Botrytis Semillon, Riverina. ~$25 (375ml)
Lovely golden hue to this sweetie. A rich and luxurious nose with honey and raisin as well as apricot, which follows through on the palate. Some dried apricot fruit and applesauce on the palate. Acidity is agreeably high, but seems not to kick in until nearer the finish, which lingers nicely. 88 points.