Stratus is one of the most chic wineries in Niagara - no faux barn or renovated farmhouse, just austere clean modern lines, inside and out. It's also not inexpensive - but there is great attention to detail and quality that goes into the production of its consistently good wines, and that costs. Here's part of the crop currently available, some at the winery, some through Vintages.

Stratus Red 2007. $44
The flagship wine of Stratus, this has a very rich and fragrant nose of dark red berry fruit, a minty herbal note and a bit of earth. Tannins fairly big on the palate, as is the acidity – the best is yet to come with this one as the good ripe fruit, not as big as might be expected from the nose, promises to hold up for the long haul. Nevertheless, the underlying smoothness on the palate means it’s actually, at four years old, quite drinkable. Some of the secondary notes are just beginning to emerge under the woody notes – a little tobacco maybe, though no leather or mushroom: stick some in your cellar for 3-5 more years and you’ll be rewarded with a fine aged meritage. There’s some gamay and syrah in it too, but it feels a lot like a meritage. This wine will also deliver the trademark of a really good red: it evolves in the glass as you drink it, getting smoother and darker, with new flavours emerging, like vanilla and some black licorice.

Stratus Merlot 2008. $32
Absolutely beautiful nose of rich dark cherry and berry fruit with undertones of smoke and a herbal note. Rather Bordeaux. The palate is smooth and the fruit is lighter than expected. Oaky notes and pencil shavings are there and the tannins are smooth, almost soft. Delicate finish. Amazing they accomplished this with a “big red” in such a so-so year.

Stratus Malbec 2008. $38
Quite fruity nose – fresh raspberry and darker berry fruit with just a hint of darkness. This is no fruit bomb – medium bodied with the fruit on the fresher side and the cedar/woody notes adding some heft. Very not Argentinean, this moderate tannin malbec is a characterful yet easy drinking red.

Stratus Petit Verdot 2007. $38
Normally used as a blending grape in a Bordeaux/meritage blend, it's interesting (and rare) to see petit verdot as a single varietal. I still think it's a big beast to have on its own, but since I tried it last year, it's calmed down and gelled further. Richly aromatic nose, nicely integrated notes of very ripe red berry/plum fruit. Smooth on the palate, though tannins still there. The fruit is good and ripe and a dark undertone adds interest without overpowering.

Stratus Semillon 2008. $32
An unusual grape not just for Ontario, but also as a single varietal wine. Fresh nose with a hint of celery over vanilla and white fruit. Nice mouthfeel with muted oak notes. Only moderate acidity, but fresh, with white fruit notes and a bit of marshmallow. Nice finish.

Stratus Sauvignon Blanc 2008. $29
Very fruity nose with not too much grassiness, more tropical fruit and aromatic notes as well. It all follows through on the palate, which has decent acidity, lemon and a nice hint of oak. There’s some more herbaceousness here, and that emerges over time, but this is to NZ sauvignon blanc what the Stratus Malbec is to Argentina's: not the same.