Viva Espana @ Vintages from August 4.
Spain = hot & sunny in most imaginations, so what better time of year to celebrate its wines? In addition to some terrific reds (a bit heavy for these hot days, but...) there are some great whites worth trying, including two examples of that rare treat, albarino. There are a number of notables from elsewhere in this high quality release, and I'll start with them.The Wines
White
Pierr Sparr Cremant d'Alsace Rose Brut. $19.95
Great rich colour on this one, and fairly gentle bubbles give it a smooth and creamy texture. Very French style - as in, not overly fruity, but there's a surprising hint of sweetness too. 88 points.
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay 2005. $58.95
A terrifically fresh and slightly spicy nose from this Tier 1 California producer. Smooth and elegant on the palate with the well-integrated French oak giving nice vanilla and butter notes. Acidity is fairly robust, leading to a great lingering finish of lemon zest and butterscotch. 90 points.
Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnay 2005. $17.95 ** BEST VALUE **
Another great Californian at a more agreeable price. The nose is fresh and lemony, so it's a bit of a surprise to taste the verging-on-sweet palate - lots of vanilla in the barrel fermented chard. However, the oak is well integrated and it's all pretty smooth on the palate. Very sophisticated and in fact great value for the care that's
gone into it. 88 points.
First Creek Verdelho 2006. $16.95
A Portuguese surprise from Down Under - they'll try anything in Oz. I marked the nose as "interesting" and detected an off note, but on the palate the acidity is fresh and there's a ton of New World fruit with a tropical tilt. Fun. 86 points.
And now to the featured region… Spain
The Whites
Yes, Spain makes white wines and no, they're not all oxidized bores from Rioja. Verdejo and Albarino both offer freshness and complexity and are well worth a try. Scroll down for a terrific value rose.
Dona Beatriz Verdejo 2006. $13.95
Rueda is Spain's answer to sauvignon blanc, and the grape used is Verdejo (same as the Portuguese Verdelho). The pronounced nose is fresh and herbaceous, the acidity is high, giving a zesty, medium-bodied palate leading to a nice finish of tropical fruit. Great value. 87 points.
Martin Codax Burgans Albarino 2006. $17.95 ** BEST VALUE **
Spain's star white from the Rias Baixas area just north of Portugal is Albarino. Several surprising features set this grape apart - it's aromatic, yet dry and fresh on the palate, and full bodied even with high acidity and no oak. Martin Codax, one of the bigger producers with, by the way, a beautiful winery and some fine high end products, really delivers here at the lowest price I've seen Albarino in this country. The very aromatic nose with fresh floral
notes, gives way to a rich, smooth, full bodied and dry palate with lemon notes, but not a lot of fruit, ending in a nice finish. Terrific with seafood or for sipping. 88 points.
Terras Gaudia O Rosal Blanco 2006. $24.95
This more elegant Albarino has a somewhat less aromatic nose, but still very fresh. Acidity level is typically high and the full bodied palate is there, this time with grapefruit and lemon zest, followed by a delightful finish of lingering tropical fruit. 90 points.
The Reds
Most people quite rightly think of reds when hearing the phrase "Spanish wine" and the Vintages crew have sourced some great examples.
Bodegas Luzon Altos de Luzon Vino Rojo 2004. $27.95
This blend of cabernet sauvignon and tempranillo is a great introduction to quality Spanish reds - it's rare to have so much cab in the blend (50% in this case). Even the nose is smooth, with lots of rich dark red fruit notes and some secondary development. On the palate there's a big mouthful of red fruit balanced with zesty acidity. Rich cherry and blackberry notes and a great "mouthfeel". Solid finish. 89 points.
Castano Coleccion 2004. $22.95
Another Spanish grape (monastrell; mourvedre in French) with cab blended in (20%). Very deep ruby colour and a layered nose of red fruit and secondary development notes from the oak. Nice and fresh on the palate, lots of fruit, mainly cherries, and secondary notes of tobacco. It's still rather tannic and could definitely age more, but a nice fresh finish with more layers of flavours that linger. 89 points.
El Rincon Syrah/Garnacha Vino Rojo 2003. $32.95
This inky dark wine looks like a real heavyweight in the glass, but has a surprisingly light, fresh and fruity nose. It's a smooth and delicious fruit bomb on the palate, with fresh acidity and tannins that grip. Great finish too. 89 points.
Emilio Moro Vino Rojo 2004. $32.95
This very dark ruby red is from Ribera del Duero, Spain's "heavyweight" region. The bold nose of red fruit, including cherries and blackberries, has oaky secondary development too. The fresh acidity on the palate balances the big tannins and there's plenty of fruit. This one could age many years more, smoothing out as it goes. Great lingering finish of red fruit. 89 points.
Finca Sobreno Crianza 2003. $19.95
The slightly oxidized nose is initially not promising, but the terrific blast of rich red fruit on the palate soon sets things right. Tannins and acidity are both high, but in good balance. Some nice hints of spice amidst the fruit and a very good, lingering finish. 88 points.
Julian Chivite Gran Fuedo Vinas Viejas Reserva 2001. $20.95
This multi-red blend from Navarra has an interesting nose of blackberry and secondary notes of tobacco and wood, which follows through perfectly on the palate. The acidity is fresh and the secondary notes add complexity. Nice finish. 87 points.
Marques de Murrieta Ygay Reserva 2002. $31.95
This legendary producer is one of Rioja's finest. Some of their old school styling must be responsible for the slightly oxidized nose, but there's plenty of dark red fruit. On the palate, acids and tannins are both high and the oak treatment very evident in the secondary notes, but it's nicely balanced. Initially off-putting, this one grows on you. 88 points.
Montecillo Gran Reserva 1998. $29.95
Another old-style Rioja with an oxidized and not too fruity nose. Great surprise on the palate though: a moderate amount of chewy cherry fruit and nice acidity balanced by medium tannins. OK finish. 87 points.
Raimat Tempranillo 2003. $17.95
100% tempranillo, this is as Spanish as it gets. Look past the Mary Tyler Moore 70s typography on a silver label (or, heck, get into it), and embrace the classic tempranillo nose of dark red fruit - black cherries - and woody secondary notes. Very smooth and fruity on the palate. Nice acidity and the chewy cherry texture of a good tempranillo. Good finish too. 87 points.
Roda Reserva 2002. $47.95
Well Roda shows up Mary Tyler Moore (did she back then? I forget). This Rioja offers a complex nose of red fruit with some notes of oxidation, but they don't dominate. Super smooth and fruity on the palate, with good secondary notes adding complexity, including tobacco. Good lingering finish. 89 points.
Torres Gran Coronas Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva. $18.95 ** BEST VALUE **
Big and fruity nose, but it doesn't immediately say "cab". But great cab mouth-filling fruit on the palate, nice red fruit and decent secondary notes under. Acid is elevated and nicely balances the tannins. Good finish. This one's quite rightly a "Vintages Essential". 88 points.
...and a Rosé
Julian Chivite Gran Fuedo Rosado 2006. $10.95 ** GREAT VALUE **Don't let the eerie orange-tinted pink colour dissuade you, nor the slightly dark nose: it has little fruit and is not promising. Get set for a very pleasant surprise on the palate - crisp acidity and smooth red berry fruit leading to a nice finish. Excellent value. 87 points.
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