Although it's native to the southwestern part of France, malbec was - and remains - a difficult grape to grow there. It's more sensitive to cold and rot, and it's harder to ripen than stalwarts like merlot and cab sauv. In sunny, dry Mendoza, malbec has thrived. It has become Argentina's signature grape and, according to Jancis Robinson, the country has about three times the malbec acreage of France.

The Cahors AOC is the principal source of malbec wines in France and the same general guidelines around Old World/New World reds apply here. Cahors malbecs, though usually full bodied, are not as big and fruity as the Argentine examples, which can even run to jammy. Cahors malbecs are typically very dark and are just as likely to stain your tongue and teeth.

So it's malbec vs. malbec, with two identically priced examples, both currently available at Vintages. In terms of quality, both are similarly good. The Cahors has a little more finesse and complexity.

Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2008. $13.95
Mendoza, Argentina

Rich and darker nose with New World boldness. Cherry and plum notes plus darker coffee grinds and even a bit of tar. Very full bodied on the palate, which offers a blast of tannins, acidity and dark red fruit. There are some vanilla and cedar notes from the oak, the fruit is ripe plum and berry, though there is a slight sour note under the wood and fruit - this can happen with a cheaper malbec - but the finish comes back to a nice balance between the fruit and earthiness.

Chatons du Cedre 2008. $13.95
Cahors, France

This one has a darkly fruity nose with ripe raspberry and undertones of fresh mint. Fairly full on the palate, but not a lot of tannins. There’s a very slight sour note that can be present in malbecs, but a decent amount of fruit, OK acidity and a bit of coffee. Tannins do emerge gingerly on the finish, giving it more body. The red fruit is there, but rather muted.  Even though it’s a tongue-stainer, this is a relatively “easy drinking” malbec … “malbec lite” perhaps? Actually not a bad choice for someone who finds some of the Argentinean muscularity threatening rather than exciting, and it would go well with dinner.