Well, at least it's not expensive...
There seems to be a $20 ceiling on the two dozen Chilean wines in this week's release, perhaps acceptance of a market maxim I learned of from one of the city's top wine importers a couple of years ago: people won't spend more than $25 on Chilean wines. So there is some good value and reasonable pricing but, apart from a great chardonnay, no stars. If you want to splash out on some good stuff this release, look to France.
Chile
Calina Chardonnay Reserva 2006. $15.95 ** BEST VALUE **
Fresh and alluring nose with some surprising tropical fruit notes. Good crisp acidity on the palate and nice hints of vanilla under.Well balanced. Nice finish. 88 points.
Vintages offers a fair selection of Carmenere, the grape Chile has adopted as its own.
In Situ Winemaker's Selection Carmenere 2004. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
A good example of "Chile's own" grape, with the darker
features of the varietal not so evident. Nice red fruit and fairly soft on the palate, giving it a smooth, easy-drinking character. OK finish. 87 points.
Marchigue Private Collection Carmenere 2004. $16.95
Rather different profile on this carmenere's nose - this version is heavy on the oak, which is good. In addition to the darker red fruit, there's a spciy note and even a definite hint of vanilla towards the finish - rare in a red. 87 points.
Honourable Mentions - Chile
Cono Sur Vision Merlot 2006. $17.95
Ripe, smooth, fruity.
Ramirana Reserve Carmenere 2005. $14.95
Carmenere nose with off notes, also present on palate, but nice red fruit.
Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Carmenere 2005. $19.95
"a good example of the variety"
Other - Whites
Gallo Family Laguna Vineyard Chardonnay 2004. $29.95
Nice nose with a mixed bag of aromas - complex. Acidity quite crisp and oak very evident on the palate, but nicely integrated. Smoky notes and full bodied. A big California-style chard with a great lift of acidity on the finish rounding things out nicely. 89 points.
Olsen Wines Big Fella Chardonnay 2004. $21.95
Oddly vibrant yellow/gold colour. Obvious oak on the toasty nose and the first sensation on the palate is sweetness, with vanilla and butterscotch dominating, leading to a toasty finish. The acidity is nicely crisp, which tames this otherwise big beast nicely. 88 points.
Rochford Chardonnay 2004. $21.95
Big nose of lemon meringue pie. Oak evident here as well, with nice vanilla notes and a great lemon/acid kick at the end. Butterscotch is the dominant flavour, but well integrated. The finish is promising, but I noted it had a "disappointing downturn" at the end. 88 points.
Te Kairanga Sauvignon Blanc 2006. $21.95
Full aromatic nose with lots of tropical fruit. Acidity is crisp so it's very zesty on the palate. A good amount of fruit, ending in a finish of passion fruit and lemon zest. Fresh. 88 points.
Joseph Drouhin St. Veran Blanc 2005. $21.95
Bright gold with an odd green hue. Lemony, fruity nose. Smooth and elegant on the palate. Pleasant hints of vanilla and a bit of butterscotch evidence a light touch of oak: very French. St. Veran surrounds the more famous Pouilly-Fuisse, so they're pretty good with chardonnay. Nice finish on this one too. 88 points.
Balthasar Ress Riesling Spatlese 2003. $26.95
Classic older riesling "petrol" notes are evident on
the reasonably aromatic nose. Off-dry on the palate (i.e., sweet), but this is balanced by nice acidity. The palate is a complex cavalcade of tropical fruits and even caramel notes, all nicely balanced. Good finish. 88 points.
Other - Reds
Carmel Road Pinot Noir 2005. $29.95
Fruity New World nose with lots of cherries and some secondary devolopment. More cherries and some earthiness on the palate and "nice enough" finish. 88 points.
Chateau de la Riviere 2003. $44.95
Super full bodied Bordeaux here. Big nose, surpisingly oaky, but this is well integrated. Smooth and moderately fruity on the palate, with acids and tannins in near perfect balance. An excellent Bordeaux, drinking well now but will age for several more years. 90 points.
Les Deux Anges Sablet 2006. $17.95 ** BEST VALUE **
Nice fresh nose with plenty of red fruit. Rich and full bodied, but nice acid kick. Terrifically French and elegant, this is a good wine to savour. Nice finish too. 89 points.
Chateau Haut-Beausejour St. Estephe 2004. $30.95
Darker notes of coffee and dark red fruit on the nose. Not much fruit on the palate, but very smooth, and the acid levels suggest this would be terrific with food. OK finish. 88 points.
Chateau Senejac 2003. $30.95
Nicely complex nose, on the darker side, very smooth on the palate with nice acidity. Medium bodied with good red fruit. 88 points.
Chateau Paul Mas Clos des Mures 2005. $18.95
Great fruit in this Rhone-style blend from the less pricey and hotter Languedoc. A smooth and pretty elegant effort, with medium tannins and good red fruit. Right on the money, value wise. 88 points.
Esporao Monte Velho Tinto 2005. $12.95 ** GREAT VALUE **
Full bodied, fruity and rather New World in style. This blend of four different indigenous Portuguese grapes is a simple but well-crafted red with soft tannins and medium acidity for easy drinking right now. OK finish. 87 points.




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