Chile is a country that's often a good bet for the combination of quality and value. Chile is capable of producing truly great wines, but even in the right climate, great costs lots. According to agents here, even though some Canadians are willing and able to pay big $ for fine wines from France, Italy and California, it's difficult to get them to budge above about $25 for Chilean. This is true in other big importing countries as well, so there aren't too many super high end Chileans. Casa Lapostolle produces some excellent reds above $30 (and a good chardonnay in this release at $14.95) but the best Chilean I've tried is Don Melchor cabernet sauvignon. At $60 or more, it's a very fine cab with serious ageability. It appears periodically in Vintages and will reward those who can afford it. This release, though, features more typical Chilean pricing.
Also, there's a terrific batch of white Burgundies - they do do chardonnay right there... and the prices aren't bad either.
Closer to home, there's a fine example of a good big red from the Okanagan Valley by a well regarded producer - the Syrah from Burrowing Owl will set you back around fifty bucks, but it'll be a nice taste of what's happening at the higher end out west. Also, plucky Prince Edward County, which continues to grow and mature as a wine producing area, has a couple of nice examples on offer. Another observation about this release: there's a good reason why Italy is the number one source of imports for wine in Ontario - they keep producing good wines at good prices and there are three I have no hesitation in recommending.
My top pick for red, however, goes to Australia and the very reliable Barossa Valley Estates, which has a big shiraz at an almost little price out now.
Some Good Chileans
Lapostolle Casa Chardonnay 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Casablanca Valley
Reliable producers Lapostolle have a real winner here: the nose is super fresh even though the hard to identify white fruit is very ripe and there's little in the way of oaky notes. Clean and fresh on the palate, the acidity is good and the fruit takes a turn towards tropical - maybe some papaya and guava. There's a hint of vanilla and a little woodiness, but it's so discreet you almost have to look for it. They've gone for - and mostly achieved - a muted elegance, but the one thing that would never happen in France does intrude a bit: high alcohol giving a bit of heat and asserting itself the way 14% would on a not-full-bodied chard. Still good though. 87 points
Santa Rita Medalla Real Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. 2006. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Maipo Valley
Rather bold nose with dark ripe fruit, some herbal notes and licorice giving complexity. Dry, full and ripe on the palate, with the tannins very high still. Blackberry and cherry fruit, decent acidity and a good finish. Will be better in a couple of years, but pretty good now if you're ok with big ta. 89 points
Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Limari Valley
Very ripe plum and blackberry nose with a bit of a smoky note. Smooth on the palate, which has almost easy-drinking softer tannins and very ripe fruit. Some smoke and toast notes add a bit of complexity. Simple but good. 87 points.
Calina Reserva Camenere 2007. $15.95
Maule Valley
Chile's own grape carmenere can be hit and miss. For years it was mistaken as merlot and indeed it often works best in a blend with merlot. But increasingly it appears on its own and, as the winemakers make ever more, they get better at it. The dark and somewhat sour nose might concern you: burnt wood, tobacco and earth as well as peppery/spicy notes almost overpower the dark fruit. But it's lighter and smoother than expected on the palate, which has good ripe berry fruit and many of the notes on the nose carry through. OK finish. 87 points.
Montgras Reserva Carmenere 2008. $12.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Colchagua Valley
Here's an easy drinking version of carm at a very good price. The nose is muted and sour, with faded red fruit, but persevere. The fruit is ripe and and the tannins have been beaten out of in and enough residual sugar was left to give it a slightly sweet edge. The great darker notes of tobacco rescue it. 86/87 points.
Montes Alpha Syrah 2007. $22.95
Colchagua Valley
Dark nose of burnt wood, ripe cherry, ripe plum and pepper. Acidity and tannins both high, and there's a vanilla note under the very ripe cherry fruit. Some tobacco too and it's all very full bodied (yet smooth). Good finish. 89 points.
The Roses
Trumpour's Mill Rose 2007. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Prince Edward County, Ontario
I enjoyed this one last year when it was younger and even fresher... and it still is light, bright and crisply acidic. Very bright pink colour, but nicely dry. Strawberry and cherry fruit, nice finish. 87 points.
Segura Viudas Vintage Brut Cava 2004. $18.95
Catalonia, Spain
Only local Spanish grapes in this one: macabeo and parellada. Nevertheless, it's not a million miles from a chardonnay/pinot champagne style blend: fresh apple and lemon fruit plus some bready notes and a hint of anise. Crisp acidity, bold and biggish bubbles. It's more lemony on the palate, which is very dry. Good finish with more lemon and a slight, but pleasant, sweetness. 88 points.
The Whites
Salomon Undhof Sal'Mon Groovey Gruner Veltliner 2008. $12.95 ** VERY GOOD VALUE **
Krems, Austria
Well the latest "it" white has a solid ambassador at a lower price than I've ever seen for a gruner velt (don't believe the "GruVe" nickname hype; I ain't never heard nobody say that - it's "gruner velt" if ya wanna abbreviate). NIcely aromatic nose with peach and white pepper. Fresh acidity and fuller on the palate than expected, which is nice. The fruit's all ripe, everything is smooth and there's a good fresh finish with ripe white fruit and some lemon. 87/88 points
Nicolas Potel Montagny 1er Cru 2007. $24.95
** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Burgundy, France
Bold nose with ripe apple fruit under oaky toasty notes is followed through on the fairly full bodied palate – but the ripe apple and prune plum fruit is nicely balanced with crisp acidity and more toasty oaky notes, with a bit of butter adding richness. 89 points
Domaine Francis Fichet Et Fils Macon-Villages 2007. $16.95
Burgundy, France
Macon is the “value village” of white Burgundy, though it still runs pricier than most chards. Ripe white fruit with a bit of a sweet vanilla edge balanced with lemon. But a nice fresh, light surprise on the clean palate, which has apple and yellow plum fruit. Nice finish. 87 points.
J.J. Vioncent Champ Bule Macon-Villages 2007. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Burgundy, France
Fresh apple and lemon fruit with a bit of anise under. Good acidity on the palate, which has muted fruit flavours that slowly emerge – lemon and granny smith apple. Good finish. 88 points.
Domaine Nadine Ferrand St. Veran. $21.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Burgundy, France
Lovely muted nose of honeysuckle, butterscotch and white fruit. Smooth and fresh on the palate with more butterscotch, muted white fruit and citrus giving some zest. Very nice, very French. 89 points.
Domain Jean-Pierre Seve Terroir Pouilly-Fuisse 2007. $26.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Burgundy, France
Smooth, elegant and muted nose of apple and vanilla. Crisp acidity and very muted white fruit and the tiniest, most discreet note of smoke on the lingering finish. Smooth. 90 points.
Burrowing Owl Syrah 2005. $48.95
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Very big and very interesting nose of ripe blackberry fruit, burnt wood and some spicy notes. More ripe blackberry on the smooth palate, which has high acidity and tannins in good balance. An interesting combination of New World fruit and Old World style and complexity. 89/90 points.
Trapiche Broquel Torrontes 2008. $15.95
Cafeyete Valley, Argentina
Rich nose of ripe canteloupe, floral notes and citrus. On the palate the fruit is muted but there, and the acidity is crisp. There’s even an odd salty note too. An interesting white to add to your repertoire: not the best example, but OK. 86 points.
Burgans Albarino 2008. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rias Baixas, Spain
Bodegas Martin Codax is one of the bigger and more important producers of Spain's finest white, and they deliver as usual with a terrific example of albarino. Somewhat muted nose, but the peachy and floral notes of albarino are there, along with some citrus. It's straight down the line albarino on the palate, with high acidity and the dryness that's such a great counterpoint to the aromatic nose. The floral aromatic notes disappear (as they should) but the peach and lemon notes, muted, are still there. Nice clean lovely uplifting finish too. 89 points.
The Reds
Barossa Valley Estate E-Minor Shiraz 2007. $17.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Lovely rich and fruity nose with lots of ripe red berries and just a bit of welcome darkness. Acidity is high, tannins about medium and the overall feel is very fruity, very New World. Nicely smooth, but with darker smoky notes giving it some depth. 88 points.
Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. $39.95
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Rich and complex nose with ripe dark berry fruit and lots of secondary notes including leather and chocolate. Smooth and fresh on the palate, which has tobacco and cigar box under the ripe berry fruit and there’s a good long finish too. 90 points.
Trumpour's Mill Pinot Noir 2007. $19.95
Prince Edward County, Ontario
Very pale colour (and fellow PEC producer Norman Hardie told me and other wine writers last weekend that "colour means nothing with pinot", referring, I think, to its heft), yet fairly rich nose with dark red cherry fruit and vanilla, plus some darker tobacco notes. Very fresh acidity but very smooth, with lots of ripe cherry and some cranberry. Very dry, not much in the way of earthy notes and no aged notes, but very interesting and a good price. This is the VQA "Wine of the Month", and why not? Well done to the Grange of Prince Edward County (worth a visit btw) 87/88 points.
Chateau Grand-Ormeau Cuvee Madeleine 2005. $57
Bordeaux, France
A just beautiful Bordeaux nose or blackberry, earth, kirsch, tobacco and licorice is your welcome to this fine wine. Dry and smooth on the palate, which has dusty tannins, this is not a fruit bomb: as with all good Bordeaux, the ripe cherry and berry fruit is there, but not in your face. Tobacco and earthy notes give complexity and seriousness. Good finish that will certainly improve with age. Buy some and cellar it if you can: 2005 really was good in Bordeaux and these gars have done a good job. 91 points.
Renzo Masi Chianti Riserva 2005. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Tuscany, Italy
Staying in Europe but getting back down to earth, this terrific Chianti has an alluring nose with aged notes already asserting themselves. Cherry fruit, earthiness and a darkly floral note on the nose. Smooth and dry on the palate, the tannins are still strong and the acidity is pretty good too. Good finish with darkness and lingerting fruit. 88 points.
Corte Zovo Sa' Solin Ripasso 2007. $17.95. ** GOOD VALUE **
Veneto, Italy
Good fruity nose with lots of cherry and plum fruit plus pepper and spice. Smooth, fuller bodied and rich on the palate, it's quite tannic but there's lots of plum and cherry fruit. Burnt wood notes add depth and there's a great, lingering finish. 88 points.
Villalta Ripasso Valpolicella 2006. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Veneto, Italy
Solid and complex nose of cherries, leather, perfume and a bit of earth. Smooth yet spicy on the palate, which has fresh acidity lifting up the cherry fruit, which is less dark than expected: a nice surprise even though I really like some darkness with my reds. You'll enjoy relative smoothness on the palate and a nice finish too. A real deal here. 88 points.
Lorinon Crianza 2005. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rioja, Spain
Fairly muted nose of dark cherry, spice and tobacco. Very smooth on the palate, which is nicely fresh and quite fruity, with good cherry and plum. There's very little age showing at this point, but then while it'll probably improve, it's good now. Good finish too. Viva Espana! 88 points.
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