Summer Entertaining is the theme this week and the weather actually might cooperate...
The selection of roses - the cliched wine of summer, but hey, it works - is not as good as the release a few weeks back, but you will have the opportunity to buy one of the most expensive rose wines I've ever seen on the market - La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rose 2008. It's got a simple, cool label, is a very elegant colour and about as dry as a rose can be. Also $23.95 unfortunately, but worth considering. What you should definitely buy, however, is the terrific Muga Rose 2008. It's from Rioja, it's dry, fresh and not too fruity, and it's just $12.95. Midway between those two is a nice one from Italy, Planeta Rose 2008 - ideal if you're in the mood for more fruit. There are some nice summer whites from Down Under, a slightly pricey but good sauv blanc from California, a terrific pinot gris from Oregon and a great gruner veltliner from Austria.
And, ideal for summer entertaining is a good example of Spain's finest white: albarino. It is typically very aromatic on the nose, with peach and floral aromas, then fuller bodied, very dry and crisply acidic on the palate: no cloying fruit there. A good albarino is a bit like combining the best qualities of a riesling and a chardonnay, and it's fuller bodied without any oak. Out now is Leira Albarino 2007 at $18.95, which is actually a very good price for an albarino.
Albarino, which is known as alvarinho in nearby Portugal and is one of the grapes that can be used in vinho verde, only thrives in a very small area in the north of Portugal and the Rias Baixas area across the Mino/Minho river Spain. In Rias Baixas there are very few vineyards with more than a couple of hectares (lots of family owned plots & no-one ever wants to sell) and it is some of the most expensive vineyard land in the world - only champagne is pricier, on average.
Rias Baixas is a beautiful place, with rolling hills and impressive seascapes. Because of the region's high humidity, many growers use a "pergola" method of cultivating the vines to improve airflow. Shown is one of the few larger vineyards - Pazo de Baion. The vines in the foreground are trained using the typical guyot method you might see in Niagara, but you may be able to discern that the vines in the background use the rare pergola approach: you can walk under them and there will be leaves and vines overhead.
The number of albarinos listed at the LCBO has increased over the last few years and it's usually possible to find one or two kicking around - do yourself a favour and try some.
With the reds, they did go a bit heavy this time - but there's a good selection of Italians, including a really superb amarone, Le Tobele Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005. Too bad it's fifty bucks, but it is terrific.
To get a hold of any of these wines, visit the LCBO website to check availability near you.
TOP VALUE PICK
Grandes Serres les Portes du Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007. $14.95
Rhone Valley, France
It's a delight to see a relatively rare white Cotes du Rhone, even better to see a decent one and a low price, and you gotta love the label. A blend of five Rhone grapes - Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier - this wine offers a lovely fruity nose with peach, floral and butter notes. Very smooth, dry and reserved on the palate, which is less fruity than expected. There's good acidity and a bit of lemon. This would be great to sip chilled on a hot day. OK finish. 87 points.
A Sparkler
Simonnet-Febvre Brut Cremant de Bourgogne $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Burgundy, France
Lovely bready nose with toast notes and ripe yellow plum fruit. Fresh and zesty on the palate, which has a very small-bubbled mousse, more ripe fruit and there's a bit of apple peel there too. Very nice for the price. 88 points
E X P A N D Your White Range
Here's a great trio of Old World whites made from lesser known grapes: good body & good acidity in each.
Beauvignac Picpoul de Pinet 2008. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Languedoc, France
I don't know why, but I just love the name "picpoul" - it's a grape native to southern France. Pinet is a key village in the region. Very muted nose with just a hint of stone fruit. Dry and medium bodied on the palate, there's good acidity, lemon and apple fruit and some peach too. Nice finish of yellow plum and maybe some gooseberry. 88 points.
Albino Piona Custoza 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Veneto, Italy
Here's another terrific Old World white with lots of acidity. Made with the garganega grape native to the region, this wine from the Custoza DOC offers a fresh nose with a hint of aromatics - floral notes. Medium bodied and with muted fruit, the high acidity keeps the hint of roundness at bay. Sweet citrus fruit - grapefruit - and there's a great lingering and fruity finish that stays clean and fresh. 88 points.
Leira Albarino 2007. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rias Baixas, Spain
Capping off the trio of interesting Euro whites, this albarino is a good example of the style. Beautiful aromatic nose with peach, pear and floral notes. Nicely full on the palate with decent acidity - though this is not quite as sharp as some albarinos. There's lots of ripe peach fruit and citrus notes as well. Nice finish. 89 points.
The Other Whites
Schmelz Federspiel Gruner Veltliner 2007. $20.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Wachau, Austria
Improve your wine trendiness - and drink well at the same time - with this terrific example of the current cool white. Austria's gruner veltliner has been gaining popularity in recent years and is typically a fresh, light and dry white that often has spicy and mineral notes. This one's got a superb nose of apricots, wet stone and a hint of herb/spice. Nicely full on the palate (GVs are often lighter) and there's some yellow plum fruit as well as apple. Acidity is very crisp, there are some more mineral notes and there's a lovely dry finish. 90 points.
Cave Spring CSV Riesling 2007 $29.95
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara
Here's the high end offering from Ontario's most reliable riesling producer and... it's even better. On the nose there are aromatic notes over lemon and lime fruit and just a hint of petrol. Surprisingly full bodied on the palate, which has very ripe fruit balanced with good acidity. While I wish it were just a touch drier, there's no arguing that this is a fine riesling... it would be good candidate for the cellar. 90 points.
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Chardonnay 2006. $37.95
VQA Okanagan Valley
Fairly dark nose with ripe white fruit and oaky, buttery notes under. Acidity is crisp and there are lemon and oak notes on the palate, which also has a hint of butterscotch. Good but it could use a bit more fruit in the middle and needs slightly better integration, which could come with time. 87 points.
Beringer Third Century Chardonnay 2006. $23.95
Central Coast, California
Here's a super oaky Californian if you want to remember what that's like... toasty, woody and smoke notes and a bit of citrus. Then on the palate it's smooth, fresh and has lots of ripe white fruit. 87 points.
Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2006. $29.95
Monterey/Santa Barbara, California
These producers epitomize the Cali style and are often criticized for over-oaking. They haven't been shy about the oak in this, their higher end offering: honeysuckle and ripe yellow plum plus a smoky note and some butter. Smooth and fresh on the palate, which is slightly round. There's more smoke, some apple and lemon and it all leads to a nice finish. 89 points.
Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc 2008. $16.95
North Coast, California
Very non-NZ, non-OTT nose on this one - citrus and lemon lime notes and not much in the way of herbaceousness. Medium bodied and with a darker note on the palate, it's nevertheless fresh clean and pleasant. Not a bad price for a quality Cali as well. 87 points.
Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc 2007. $22.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Napa, California
Very interesting nose with muted grassy notes and a touch of oak over a rich seam of tropical fruit. Fresh and fruity on the palate and with good acidity. There's kiwi fruit, passion fruit and key lime. Lovely finish. 89 points.
Firesteed Pinot Gris 2007. $19.95
Willamette and Rogue Valleys, Oregon
They say Oregon is good with "pinot" - but switch from black to grey: Here's a very un-Italian style with a really lovely nose full of peach and pear fruit and bordering on aromatic with its floral hint. Fresh and lively on the palate, which has lemon and ripe apricot. There's just a bit of sweetness on the finish. Lovely. 89 points.
St. Hallet Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Fairly muted nose with a bit of grassiness, ripe peach and tropical notes. Crisp acidity on the palate, which also has lemon in addition to the ripe peach. Nice finish. 87 points.
Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2008. $18.95
Marlborough, New Zealand
Sorry about last year's label pictured... anyway, light and fresh nose with lemon, grapefruit and a bit of unripe melon. Smooth and dry with a solid kick of acidity and then some riper, sweeter notes emerge, with a hint of tropical. Nice finish. 89 points.
Selini Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2008. $16.95
Marlborough, New Zealand
Super big NZ style sauv blanc here with a grassy nose, a hint of bug spray and some rich tropical fruit. Very dry on the palate, which has lemon and some more tropical fruit. Lovely lingering finish with lemon drops. 88 points.
Domaine de Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fume 2007. $26.95
Loire Valley, France
Very gentle sauvignon blanc nose here - just a bit of grass and some lemon. Smooth, fresh and dry on the palate, which has ripe melon edging towards tropical fruit. More citrus notes, good acidity, nice long finish. 89 points.
The Reds
Frei Brothers Reserve Pinot Noir 2007. $24.95
Russian River Valley, California
It's a place that advertises itself on Castro Street in San Fran with two smiling men and the information that it's "69 miles from San Francisco", but the Russian River is seeing its status as a gay resort usurped by its growing importance as a wine appellation. Here's a very New World example of a pinot noir... Very fruity cherry nose that verges on candied. It's smooth on the palate and the tannins and acidity are both medium. Some woody notes give it a bit of depth and there's a pleasant floral hint and strawberry is added to the cherry fruit. Nice long finish. 88 points.
Rodney Strong Alexander's Crown Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $39.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Alexander Valley, California
Bordering the Russian River Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) to the north is the Alexander Valley, which is Sonoma's biggest sub-region. It's also the warmest part of Sonoma, most notably with very high daytime temperatures in summer followed by very chilly nights. So no wonder this is a terrific cab - and even better now that it's been aged a few years. Beautiful and complex nose with discreet dark red fruit, a slight green hint and some iodine. Super smooth yet pretty big on the palate, which has elevated tannins and acidity, ripe dark berry fruit, cassis, mint and some woody, toasty notes. Beautiful finish. 92 points.
Andrew Rich Cuvee B Pinot Noir 2006. $33.95
Willamette Valley, Oregon
The pinots Oregon is famous for don't come cheap - but this one's actually worth the money. A bit brash and woody on the nose, with lots of ripe cherry fruit and a spice note. On the palate the tannins are high and the acidity moderate, some nice cigar/tobacco notes add complexity to the ripe, slightly sweet cherry fruit. However it's all nicely smooth and reserved and there's a very good finish. 90 points.
Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $43.95 (1.5L) ** GOOD VALUE **
Colchagua Valley, Chile
Super big and super dark nose - this one really hits you. The nose has woody, forest floor and tobacco notes with quite bright cherry/blackberry fruit under. Equally big and dark on the palate, the tannins are high and so's the acidity. The berry fruit then takes on a richer riper feel and some plum notes come in. Age this one for sure - and bear in mind that the magnum size is generally agreed to give the best results in a cellar. If you drink it now, be ready for too-big, so I'd say cellar it for 2-5 years and you'll have a hundred dollar wine on your hands... 89 points.
Natura Camenere 2008. $15.95
Colchagua Valley, Chile
Chile's own red carmenere can sometimes have a funky note that verges on "off". That's not the case here: Ripe nose with red berries and some burnt oak. Acidity and tannins are both about medium, there's ripe red berry fruit, a bit of spice, a full body and an OK finish. Try it with a meaty BBQ. 87 points.
Rockbare Shiraz 2006. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
McLaren Vale, South Australia
If you want even bigger New World style, look here. Super big bold Aussie shiraz nose with super-ripe berry fruit under spicy, peppery notes on the nose. Full and quite smooth on the palate, you'll find blackberry fruit, tobacco, burnt toast, and there's a nice finish with the fruit coming, with some plum joining in. 89 points.
X & Y Cabernet/Merlot 2004 $17.95
Margaret River, Western Australia
Another big New World style Aussie here, this one has a very big nose of ripe berry fruit and woody notes, but nothing in the way of "green", which you sometimes get in the Margaret River. Rich and ripe on the palate, there are sweet blackberries, a bit of tobacco, the tannins are medium and the acidity is good. Nice fruity finish. 87 points.
Chateau du Cray Mercurey 2006. $25.95
Burgundy, France
Here's the opposite style of a nice wine: a food-friendly Burg. Fairly muted nose with cherry fruit and a bit of floral, and this changes and darkens with a few swirls. Elegantly pale ruby colour, it's very smooth and light on the palate. Acidity and tannins are both high and the fruit is edging towards the sour and thin type that Mercurey so often seems to yield. However this one stops short and, with the pepper and even spicy notes, it ends up being restrained and elegant and would be really amazing with, say, grilled lamb. 88 points.
Villa Giada Suri Rosso Barbera D'Asti 2007. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Piedmont, Italy
Ripe and rich nose with a bit of dried flowers and red berry fruit. Smooth and ripe on the palate, with so much fruit in fact that there's a bit of a sweet edge. However good grippy tannins and good acidity keep it working well. Good fresh finish. 87/88 points
Bellini Riserva Chianti Rufina 2004. $22.95
Tuscany, Italy
Great nose of slightly stewed berries and a floral edge. Smooth, ripe and fresh on the palate. Tannins are medium and there's a slight sour note to the cherries, reminding you that you're in the Old World. Another great food wine here. Good finish too. 88 points.
Fattoria La Ripa Riserva Chianti Classico 2006. $26.95
Tuscany, Italy
Rich and slightly over-extracted nose of ripe dark cherry fruit with a spicy note over it. Very dry on the palate - tannins and acidity are both high, there's good cherry fruit and some woody and herbal notes giving it complexity and depth. 89 points.
Toscolo Chianti Classico 2006. $19.95
Tuscany, Italy
Darker and woodier nose with tobacco notes over dark cherry. Full on the palate, which has a nice balance of ripe fruit, tannins and acidity. Good finish. 88 points.
Corte Giara Ripasso Valpolicella 2007. $17.95
Veneto, Italy
Rich and darkly fruity nose with black cherries and some earthy, herbal notes. Full bodied on the palate, which has more dark cherries and tobacco. Quite smooth overall, with gentle tannins. Nice finish. 87/88 points.
Le Tobele Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005. $49.95
Veneto, Italy
A great example of one of Italy's fine premium wines here. Complex nose of dark cherry fruit, dark plum, earth, leather, and a spicy/floral note lifting it up. Full and pleasantly fresh on the palate, which has good tannins, elevated acidity and lots of ripe cherry/berry fruit. Some more tobacco and even a chocolate note add to the overall complexity and there's a great finish too. 91 points.
Zonin Valpolicella Classico 2008. $15.95
Veneto, Italy
Back down to earth, here's a good everyday example of a valpolicella (the precursor to amarone btw). Fairly simple nose with cherry fruit and a bit of earth. Full bodied with the fruit carry through and ripe, and there's a good finish. Simiple but good. 87 points.
Celeste Crianza 2005. $19.95
Ribero del Duero, Spain
Very big and very dark nose with earthy notes of ripe red fruit. Fresh on the palate with high acidity and fairly coarse tannins. Coffee and chocolate notes as well as ripe cherry and plum fruit. Nice finish. 89 points.
Fortius Gran Reserva 1999. $23.95
Navarra, Spain
Dark and slightly cooked nose, a bit over extracted ripe red berry fruit over earthy notes. Fresher than expected on the palate, which is full of super ripe cherry and berry fruit, but with a mature edge. There's also some tobacco and a good lingering finish. A good opportunity to try a decent cabernet sauvignon/tempranillo blend at ten years of age. 88 points.
88 points.
Lan Reserva 2004. $23.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Rioja, Spain
Pleasant and muted notes with cherry and floral notes, and a bit of dark edge. Fresh and ripe on the palate - tannins and acidity are both high, but it's very smooth all the same. There's chewy cherry fruit with a herbal hint and a good lingering and plummy finish. 90 points.
Ontanon Crianza 2005. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rioja, Spain
Full and fresh nose with oaky notes, a herbal touch and ripe red berry/cherry fruit. Very smooth on the palate even as tannins and acidity are both high, with the acidity rising toward the finish, which is good and fresh. 89 points.
The Rose Wines
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Rose 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara
Very muted nose with a bit of strawberry and raspberry fruit. Smooth and fresh on the palate, which has more ripe strawberries and raspberries, muted to the point of elegance. Good fresh acidity. 88 points
Strewn Cabernet Rose 2008. $12.95
VQA Ontario
Little bit of a weedy note under the decent red berry fruit - it's a NIagara thing; happens sometimes. On the palate there's good acidity and ripe berry fruit with a hint of green under. OK finish. 86 points.
Muga Rose 2008. $12.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rioja, Spain
Medium pink in colour, this one has a rather dark nose, which is fairly muted with some red berry fruit. Dry and fresh on the not-too-fruity palate, which is nicely smooth. OK finish. 87 points.
Lordona Syrah Rose 2008. $12.95
California
A very elegant bottle and label for such a cheapie. Big and fruity nose on this 100% syrah rose - lots of ripe berries. These carry through onto the palate, which is alas a little round and has a sweet edge. The acidity is good, but this is in the fuller and sweeter style. OK finish. 86 points.
Slowine Rose 2008. $11.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Overberg, Western Cape
No bandaid on this pinotage-dominated blend from South Africa. Nicely muted nose, quite fresh on the palate, which has strawberry fruit and citrus notes. OK finish. 86 points.
La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rose 2008. $23.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Provence, France
Elegance abounds in this, one of the most expensive roses I've seen on the market. Lovely pale salmon colour, muted strawberry fruit and a floral note on the nose. Super dry and not at all fruity on the palate, which is very serious and even has some evident tannins and a hint of lemon zest. Long finish with muted red fruit and a spicy note. 89 points.
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