Canadians don't drink their fair share of rose. Maybe it's our too-brief summer, or maybe people here don't take it seriously. According to figures released earlier this year by Vinexpo of Bordeaux in their comprehensive study of the world wine market, about 9% of all the wine consumed in the world is rose. In Canada, that figure drops to 3.2%. So we've got some catching up to do.
If you're among the Canadians who disdain rose and do not wish to know more about it, scroll down now or click here for recommendations on newly released sparklers, whites or reds.
Rose is made pretty much anywhere wine is made, though its true home is southern France. With the exception of champagne, however, rose wines are never more expensive than the better whites or reds from their regions, but, compared to lower priced whites, can offer more flavour and complexity. So they often represent good wine value and there are a few examples in this release. The main danger with an unfamiliar rose is that you will get a sweet pink fruity mess like a white zinfandel. However there are plenty of very dry and delicate roses, and these are more often salmon coloured than pink.
Colour alone does not seal a rose's fate - some of the finest roses, such as those from Tavel in France, can be quite deep pink. Pansy! from New Zealand is also shocking pink, and the fine Niagara rose from Malivoire is pretty pink too.
The process of making rose is straightforward: it needs a red grape (i.e., dark-skinned or "black" as they say in France) as that's where the colour and some of the flavours come from. The inside of a red grape is pretty much the same pale flesh as the white, so red wine goes through a process called maceration, where the skins are left to mix with the juice in the tank. With rose, this process is much shorter and in many cases just a few hours is enough to make it go pink. The real art is getting the balance just right. In a few cases, still red wine is actually blended in as well, but this is not common except in Champagne - also, the EU has just voted to ban the process, which is associated with cheaper producers outside Europe. Rose wines can be made from any red grape and some blends include white grapes as well. No one grape is considered "best" for rose, but if you want to boost your odds, go for one of the Rhone Valley grapes like grenache, syrah, mourvedre or cinsault, or blend thereof. But bear in mind that even a red you're familiar with, like cabernet sauvignon, syrah or pinot noir will not taste the same in rose form.
Rose is also often a good food wine and can stand up to heartier, spicier fare than many whites. Try it with Salad Nicoise, seafoods, or any olive oil/garlicky Mediterranean style dishes.
If you're feeling the pinch from the economic slowdown, or just feeling cheap, this year's runaway hit Fuzion has just released a very drinkable rose and it's - whaddya know? syrah-based. It's rather pink, not too complex and has a short finish, but it is nicely dry, reasonably full and has OK acidity. Fuzion's chenin-chardonnay blend white is also interesting: I had no idea anyone was growing chenin blanc in Argentina. It's OK. Not great or complex, and a bit round, but there are some aromatic and fruity notes from the chenin and it is well made, and therefore drinkable. And like all the Fuzion product, $7.45.
But one that's not on this release, and that is terrific, is the Perrin Reserve Rose at $15.95: there's still some kicking around and it's well worth getting if you like it a good discreet colour, smooth, muted and low-key yet complex, plus dry and fresh.
Of course there are reds and whites too. Scroll down to after the sparklers (one of which is a beer-coloured effort from Deutschland...)
To get a hold of any of these wines, visit the LCBO website to check availability near you.
The Rose Wines
Megalomaniac Pink Slip Pinot Noir Rose. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
VQA Niagara Peninsula
Is the brand name a sign of the times? Well if you were unfortunate enough to get a pink slip, this lovely rose will not eat up much of your EI cheque. Full nose of ripe strawberry and cherry fruit with darker secondary notes giving it some seriousness. Smooth and quite full on the palate, with a good amount of tannin for a rose. Good acidity balances the ripe fruit, which is more cherry and strawberry, and leads to a good finish. 88 points.
Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rose. $12.95
VQA Niagara Peninsula
Surprisingly low price from this premium producer. Though not shocking pink, there's a definite brightness to the colour. Quite fruity nose with an earthy hint and a bit of a weedy/green note under. Fresh on the palate, which is quite light and which has ripe wild strawberry fruit and some more weedy. Good finish. 86 points
Thirteenth Street June's Vineyard Cabernet Rose 2008. $15.95
VQA Creek Shores, Niagara
This bolder pink wine is a blend of cab sauv and cab franc - more grassy/weedy notes here, but also lots of ripe berry fruit. Full, ripe and fruity on the palate, this is not a thin Niagara cab. There are a few notes of spice and some more weeds in the fruit. OK finish. 86 points.
Pansy! Rosé 2008. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Gisborne, New Zealand
Very pink colour and a somewhat muted nose of red berry fruit. Big contrast on the palate as it explodes in the mouth with cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruit. Great acidity keeps it fresh and it's nicely smooth, there's some sweetness and in general this is pretty big and brash New World style rose. Pick up some for Pride! 87/88 points. Read the story behind Pansy! here.
Chateau La Croix de Queynac Rose Bordeaux 2008. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Bordeaux, France
Darker reddish-pink colour on this one, which has fresh berry fruit and a slight green, leafy note under. Good acidity and, contrary to the nose, there's good solid ripeness on the fruit, which includes strawberry and raspberry, and there's a nice darker earthy note too. OK finish. 87 points.
Chateau La tour de L'Eveque Rose 2008. $18.95
Provence, France
From the spiritual if not literal home of rose, and one of the most beautiful and warm parts of France, this is a great pale salmon colour and has a fairly muted nose with light red berry fruit and some marmalade on the nose. Very smooth and restrained on the palate, which is very dry, fresh and not overly fruity. An elegant choice. 88 points.
Domaine Houchart Rose Cotes de Provence 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Provence, France
Busy yet charming label on this, another pale provencal... red berry and red apple fruit on the nose. Fresh and dry on the palate, which is nicely smooth. Simple but good. OK finish. 87 points.
Folie a Deux Menage a Trois Rose. $17.95
California
Another bright and shiny pink wine here from Cali - they don't specify where. Big nose with cherry and red berries and a little bit of a spicy note. It's rather round on the palate and the acidity level is moderate, but the sweet cherry fruit is mitigated by the spicy and white pepper notes. OK finish. 86 points.
Heitlinger Estate Open Air Rose 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Baden, Germany
Here's a pinot noir based rose with a super pale salmon colour and a fairly muted nose with cranberry and citrus notes. Dry on the palate, the acidity is high (as you'd expect) and yet there's smooth, ripe cherry fruit. Good finish. 87 points.
Navarro Correas Coleccion Privada Rosado 2008. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Mendoza, Argentina
Made from Argentina's now-signature grape, malbec, this rose is dry and somewhat restrained on the nose, though there is strawberry fruit. It's slightly round on the palate, but it is nice and dry and there are citrus notes to lift it up. Good finish. 87 points.
Barth Extra Dry Sparkling Rose. $16.95
Rheingau, Germany
Deutscher Sekt is Germany's take on sparkling and it's pretty rare to see a rose version - though this one looks more like a bottle of beer with a pinkish tinge to be frank. Muted but alluring nose of brioche and berry fruit. Very gentle mousse and it is dry but, being German, they can't resist just a hint of sweetness. There's a lot of fruit on the palate and the lemon notes and good acidity keep it fresh. A nice sparkler. 87 points
Mionetto Prosecco Brut. $17.95
Veneto, Italy
Italy's leading sparkler is usually a good bet and here's a good example. Super fruity nose with lots of peach. Lively mousse and good acidity and more ripe peach fruit on the palate. There's a slight sweet note and a hint of apple on the finish. 87 points
Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007. $19.95
VQA Niagara Escarpment
Very oaky nose with toast notes over apple fruit. On the palate it's nicely smooth, fairly full and there's a ripe note to the fruit - apple sauce and sweet lemon. There's also more toast and some smoke on the finish. 88 points.
Rosewood Estates Renaceau Vineyard Chardonnay 2007. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
VQA Beamsville Bench
Here's the opposite of the above... an unoaked chardonnay that really lets the fruit shine. Some are saying that 07 is the "best vintage ever" in Niagara and while I'm not sure that's the case, this is a very ripe chardonnay. It's quite full bodied for an unoaked and there is melon and tropical fruit and, unusually for Ontario, only moderate acidity, which makes it feel like it's from further south. 88 points
Rosewood Estates Riesling 2006. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
VQA Niagara Peninsula
There's good fruit on the nose of this one, including fresh prune plum and lemon. There's also a honeyed note and the beginning of "petrol" notes that come with age in rieslings. Nicely full (for a riesling) and there's more ripe stone fruit, crisp acidity and more petrol. Good finish on this very good example of Niagara getting it right. 89 points.
Rosewood Estates Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2007. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
VQA Niagara Peninsula
This white meritage blend (the name for grapes used in Bordeaux when it's from over here) has a slight medicinal note initially but this soon clears to reveal notes of grapefruit. Quite lush and fruity on the palate, which has grapefruit plus tropical fruit notes, and there's also good acidity to lift it up. Good finish. 88 points.
D'Arenberg The Last Ditch Viognier 2007. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Adelaide Hills/McLaren Vale, South Australia
Big rich nose with earthy notes and oak hints tamping down the aromatics - but there is some peach fruit and a floral note. Acidity is high and there's good complexity on the palate, with gentle oak notes under the ripe peach and apricot. There's citrus too and the good finish has a lemon lift. 89 points.
Chateau de Davenay Clos Chaudron Montagny 1er Cru 2006. $26.95
Burgundy, France
Muted and minerally nose with some white stone fruit: very reserved. Smooth on the palate, which also has mineral notes and is very dry. It's not too fruity and there's great crisp acidity. It's light and fresh, yet offers the complexity of fleeting flavours. 89 points.
Chateau du Chassagne-Montrachet en Pimont Chassagne-Montrachet 2003. $49.95
Burgundy, France
Well here's a white from Europe's hottest year on record: not promising for a chardonnay. However although the fruit is very ripe on the nose, mainly ripe apple and a grape hint with some subtle butter notes, It's super fresh and zesty on the palate, which is medium bodied, has some fresher citrus notes over the ripe white fruit and there's vanilla and a hint of smoke. Lovely finish. 92 points
Domaine du Chateau de Melin La Corvee des Vignes Puligny-Montrachet 2007. $59.95
Burgundy, France
Beautiful nose: a swirl of mineral, citrus and nettles. Super smooth on the palate, which is lifted up by great acidity. There's lemon fruit and the wet stone of Burgundy minerality. Lovely lingering finish of melon fruit and mineral notes. 92 points.
Patrick Lesec Mersault 2005. $49.95
Burgundy, France
Super smoky, oaky notes dominate the fruit on the nose, but there's a big blast of pear and apple fruit as well as citrus notes on the palate, which is smooth and full. Darker notes, including smoke emerge, adding complexity. Excellent lingering finish: this wine is serious and fresh. 91 points.
Francis Blanchet Calcite Pouilly Fume 2007. $23.95
Loire Valley, France
Here's a terrific example of the more restrained French take on sauvignon blanc - darker grassy notes, a little bit of tropial fruit. Fresh on the palate, which has great sharp acidity, good tropical fruit and some olive brine. Excellent fresh finish. 89 points.
Papagiannokos Ktima 2007. $19.95
Attica, Greece
This wine made from indigenous Greek grapes (savatiano and roditis) is a bit bland, but in a nice way. The nose is muted, it's very dry and smooth on the palate, which has vague white fruit notes and citrus. It's a little round, but there's enough acidity to keep it fresh. Modest finish. 87 points.
Astoria Alisia Pinot Grigio 2007. $15.95
Veneto, Italy
Fresh and fruity nose with peach and some mineral notes. Light and fresh on the palate, which has a hint of roundness. There's a little bit of grassiness, but none of that PG undertone you sometimes get. Nice light finish. 87 points.
Rosewood Estates Pinot Noir 2007. $17.95
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara
Well Rosewood's putting its whole line out this week! The pinot has a fresh and light nose with cherry fruit and a bit of spice. Acidity is high and tannins are medium, and the cherry fruit is ripe, but on the lighter side. Some smoky notes too. Could be more characteristic of pinot, but very drinkable. 88 points.
Hess Syrah 2006. $25.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Mendocino & Monterey, California
It's odd to see a blend from counties so far apart - one well north and the other well south of San Francisco, 275 miles apart - but it sure works. Big, spicy and peppery nose with ripe dark fruit, but then it's super smooth on the palate, which is still ripe and full, but not like an over the top Aussie shiraz. There are plenty of darker notes, including earthiness and more pepper, but also great plum and cherry fruit. Good finish too on this great example of a big New World wine showing smooth complexIty. 90 points.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Merlot 2003. $23.95
Columbia Valley, Washington
Here's an interesting aged merlot from Washington. I was in BC's Okanagan Valley that summer and I have three words: H. O. T. It can only have been even hotter south of the border. By hot, I mean sitting on a shaded patio in Kelowna trying to have a cool-down beer one afternoon and watching the temperature rise on a nearby bank branch's video display: 36, 37, 38... I went inside at that point, realizing the air was warmer than body temperature. So it's no surprise that this wine offers a rich ripe nose of black cherry and plum with earthy notes and a bit of cocoa powder. It's big on the palate, which still has a very young feel, and somehow manages to have elevated acidity. But then, it's semi-desert out there and the nights can be quite chilly - in Osoyoos BC, it went from 34 one afternoon to 9 that night, for example. The tannins are very evident still, there a woody/herbal note and the fruit is incredibly ripe. There's a hint of sweetness too. This will continue to improve and I think would be very interesting to try in about 2011 or 2012. 89 points.
Fattoria Monte Chianti Rufina Riserva 2004. $19.95
Tuscany, Italy
Very ripe and extracted nose - almost over-ripe cherry fruit. But it's fresher and smoother than expected on the palate, which has fresh cherry and dried flowers. Dry and with moderate tannins and good acidity, there's a good finish on this one too. 89 points.
Villa Cerna Chianti Classico 2006. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Tuscany, Italy
Relatively muted nose with ripe cherries, dried flowers and some darker notes. Tannins are high but it's still smooth and quite fresh on the palate. Good light cherry fruit, spicy notes and a lovely finish with cherries and notes of tobacco. 88 points.
Calafate Reserva Malbec 2007. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Patagonia, Argentina
It doesn't get much further south than Patagonia, and of course in the southern hemisphere, south equals cooler. So here's a very elegant take on the sometimes 2-big-2-rough malbec: terrific nose with smoky spicy notes over ripe cherry and blackberry fruit. Very spicy, very dry and rather reserved. Great finish too. 88 points.
Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Mendoza, Argentina
Somewhat muted nose with a little dark red fruit and tar/tobacco notes. Quite full on the palate. Tannins and acidity both high, great ripe blackberry and cherry fruit. More tobacco. Good finish of ripe red fruit. 88 points.
Zolo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $18.95
Mendoza, Argentina
This terrific cab was my Top Value Pick back in December 2008. Then it cost $16.95. The, um, same vintage. Anyway, if you missed it then, it's back, but more expensive. However it's still got a nicely dark nose of wood, spice and coffee. There's bright cherry fruit and more wood on the palate, and I detected a "meaty" note this time. Still remarked that it's super smooth and that there's a good lingering finish with cherries and, this time, blackberries. I gave it the same score: 88 points.
Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. $21.95
Colchagua Valley, Chile
Here's a big New World style cab with a rich nose of dark red berry fruit, including blackberry, and a bit of a herbal note. Smooth and fresh on the palate, which has great secondary notes of tobacco. There's some plum fruit on the lingering finish. 88 points.
Tabali Reserva Especial 2006. $21.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Limari Valley, Chile
A red blend here, with mainly syrah, this one is also very much in the New World style. If the colour were any darker, it'd be black. The nose is fairly big with prune plums and spicy notes. Rich and full as expected on the palate, yet it's quite smooth as the tannins are about medium and the acidity only a little elevated. There's ripe plum fruit and chocolate notes and a good finish. 89 points.
Antonin Rodet Givry 2007. $21.95
Burgundy, France
Although it's over $20, this actually qualifies as "entry level" in Burgundy - and you certainly could do worse: Bright cherry nose with just a hint of earth. Smooth and fresh on the palate, which has fairly high acidity and the fruit is very French and muted. There's a slight sour note in the middle, but good ripe cherry fruit comes back on the finish. This wine would really shine with good food - a rich meaty dish, for example. 88 points.
Domaine D'Ardhuy aux Clous Savigny-Les-Beaunes 1er Cru 2006. $39.95
Burgundy, France
This is not an entry level Burg. It's starts off not too promisingly, with a slightly cooked nose of cherry cough candy but there's an interesting note of perfume under. But, like a good Burgundy, it soon changes and gives sweeter and fresher fruit notes, more earth and darker notes as well. Lovely smooth and ripe on the palate, there's good cherry fruit, tobacco and earth. The feel is very supple even though tannins and acidity are still elevated. Terrific now and will improve. 91 points.
2005 is considered a great vintage in Bordeaux - many say it's among the best ever - and here are a couple of examples that conform to the interesting feature of that year: bigger, richer wines with more concentrated fruit.
Chateau La Dauphine 2005. $34.95
Bordeaux, France
Rich and plummy nose with herbal and earthy notes as well as some tobacco. Smooth on the palate, which has a little bit of spice. Tannins and acidity are both high so while you can drink it now, it will definitely improve over the next few years. 90 points.
Chateau Haut-Bernat 2005. $34.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Bordeaux, France
This St. Emilion wine stays true to the notion that wines from that AC are fruitier than their Left Bank brethren: big and rich nose with lots of dark blackberry fruit and some pipe tobacco on this merlot-dominated blend. Tannins and acidity are both high and this is balanced with beautifully ripe fruit and more tobacco. This one in particular will be amazing when the tannins calm down... 92 points.
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