The Jura mountain range - more rolling than the craggy Alps - was the inspiration for the name Jurassic, the geological period. And some of the wines are still in the Jurassic period of winemaking: when oxidation was in favour.

Though little of its wine is sold in other parts of France, Jura is known for a trio of regional specialties: Vin de Paille ("straw wine"), Vin Jaune ("yellow wine") and Macvin de Jura, a sort of liqueur with a powerful nose of resiny, pruney notes and a full and highly alcoholic body. It feels very much like a grappa.

The Vin de Paille also takes a leaf from the Italian book of wine - the local grape savagnan is harvested and then left to dry out on straw mats for between two and six months so the flavours become more concentrated just like Amarone. The end result is quite sweet, with molasses and raisin notes under the oxidation and the sugar. Winemakers take a leaf out of the Spanish winemaking book for Vin Jaune and follow a production process similar to that of sherry, encouraging oxidation and letting the "flor" sit on top as the wine matures in barrel (old oak) for up to six years. It's a complex, interesting nutty, spicy and dried fruit taste that needs to be acquired for full enjoyment. The bottles are also an unusual - and cute - 620 ml (vs. the normal 750 ml).

With regard to the other wines of the region, the cooler climate means local grapes like savagnan, trousseau and poulard are the main flavours; chardonnay and pinot noir are the favoured imports. One of the speakers at the introductory seminar pointed to a map and said Jura "is really the continuation of Burgundy", but after tasting a few of the chards and pinots I thought is was more like the continuation of Prince Edward County. The pinots seem to be mainly light verging on thin and the chards are generally quite acidic and light, though some are impressively fruity and even floral. I made that observation after tasting just a few of each, but then I arrived at the Domaine Labet table.

A slim and enthusiastic man with an impish air, Julien Labet brought seven wines to show, five of which were chardonnay. First I thought "oh here we go again...", but by the third one I was thinking "ooh! let's go again!" His take on the local savagnin was fresh too: almost no oxidation. 

They're not available here, but any Ontario agent looking for some interesting chardonnays should call him up. The Jurassic angle alone would be a great door-opener and a taste of the wines would seal the deal (assuming they're not like 20 Euros ex-cellar - I didn't ask about pricing)

Selected Wines of Domaine Labet

Julien insists on natural local yeasts for his fermentation and, judging by the diversity and quality of his wines, this is a good choice. He's also in favour of the purity of terroir - he doesn't blend wines from different vineyards, but prefers to label and release them individually.

Fleur de Savagnin 2006
Here's a fresh take on the usually oxidized local favourite: very fresh nose with just a hint of oxidation. Lighter white fruits and some white apple flesh and a bit of vanilla on the nose. Acidity is high, but it's fuller bodied with more white fruit and a lovely smooth finish with a note of blancmange. 87 points.

Fleurs de Chardonnay 2007
Rather flowery nose (appropriately enough) with a hint of nettles. Very fruity on the palate, with peach and nectarines and there's a floral note here too. I noted this was "the peachiest chard" I've ever had. Even with all this fruit, it's dry, there are mineral notes, and the finish is good. 88 points

La Bardette 2007
Made from the grapes of 70 year old vines growing in clay, this wine spent 16 months in oak. More muted nose of yellow fruit and honeysuckle. On the palate there's more fruit, including a bit of tropical, as well as a hint of spice and vanilla and some lemon notes. Fresh finish. 89 points

La Reine 2006
The wine's vines are 60 years old and the soil is "red clay" according to Julien. 18 months in oak. Even more muted nose with white fruit, some lemon a bit of vanilla and a hint of smoke. On the palate there's stone fruit, including yellow plum. Good lingering finish. This is his most elegant wine. 90 points

Cuvee du Hasard 2005
In a nod to local style, this chard is majorly oxidized. "We don't top up the barrels," Julien explained. Fairly bold nose with good fruit notes, including apple, and some vanilla too. On the palate it's fuller bodied, the fruit's very ripe and overall it's very interesting, but not for everyone - imagine a sherry made of chard. 88 points.

The Jura tasting had excellent food - cubes of superb sausage, terrific cheese and the essential but almost always forgotten dried fruit and nuts to accompany the fine cheese. The food was clearly sourced here, so I hope whoever supplied it and prepared it so artfully gets more contracts...