Perrier-Jouet and Mumm @ Thuet. June 2007
The champagne alone merits appraisal and comment, but in this case the five course tasting menu at one of the city's top restaurants is worth reporting as well. Champagne is the one wine that is correct with everything, but even then it can be tweaked: certain styles go better with certain foods, and the Mumm Perrier-Jouet people worked with Thuet to come up with the best combinations. Thuet is a great chef and his eponymous restaurant on King West is a major culinary destination. The creative combinations, stylishly presented, were all superb: I'll let his menu entries speak for themselves.
Chef Marc Thuet drops in to the tasting.
The reason for the occasion? "Canada has been, for many years, an important market for Mumm Cordon Rouge but we were not selling any premium cuvee and very little Perrier-Jouet. We presented to the LCBO Mumm de Cramant, Mumm Grand Cru, Belle Epoque and Belle Epoque Rose and got them approved," says Agnes Laplanche, brand manager for the Americas and the organizer of this terrific brunch.
The food is noted first, followed by the champagne served with each course.
Wild Red Spring salmon trois saveurs. Perrier-Jouet Blason Rose foam.
Perrier-Jouet Blason Rosé. $75.
Delicate and pleasant colour. Very light red fruit - very understated and elegant, with very crisp acidity. (The fruit is more evident after comparing it to a white champagne). 90 points.
Scrambled eggs and lobster en croute (a single egg scrambled and placed back in shell).
Mumm de Cramant. $95.
This is a "low pressure" champagne. Mumm de Cramant is a very pale and slightly greenish colour. As expected, relatively delicate on the palate and not a great deal of fruit. The bubbles are tiny, but it's somewhat creamy all the same. 91 points
Soft maple syrup French toast, ragout of rabbit and morel.
G.H. Mumm Grand Cru. $89.
This one is 45% pinot noir & the rest pinot meunier and chardonnay. The Grand Cru means it's from the top-rated vineyards. This is a more "masculine" champagne. It's a richer,darker colour, edging towards golden. Very rich nose, biscuitty with yellow fruit underneath. On the palate there's a more mature, riper fruit taste. Very robust on the palate, this one can stand up to more flavourful foods. The slight hint of oxidation is not enough to annoy, but just enough to say quality and maturity. 91 points.
Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Rosé 2002. $350.
This one is a very elegant pale salmon colour. Light red fruit on the elegant nose. Ripe strawberries give it a mature feel. Nice backbone on the well structured palate, which is smoother and rounder in style. Nice finish too. 92 points.
Cendre goat cheese and Saint Benedictine blue cheese panna cotta, truffle pineapple consommé.
Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque 1999. $130.
Pale straw gold in colour and very tiny bubbles. Not overly fruity, bit of biscuit and a hint of oxidation. Another elegant champagne. 90 points.
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