Sunny Spain has a terrific climate for red wines: hot days and cool nights in the northern regions of Rioja, Ribero del Duero and Bierzo, and hot days and warmer nights in the vineyards nearer the Mediterranean. Apart from "Green Spain", the damp north-west of the country, most of Spain is pretty brown: Hollywood used Andalusia as a body double for Arizona in spaghetti westerns back in the 60s and 70s.
A major worry for winemakers in certain parts of the country is that it is in fact too dry - some parts of Spain, like Catalonia, where Barcelona is - have been suffering their worst drought in 40 years. Where there is enough water for irrigation, winemakers and grape growers find it easier to be green than their peers in more northerly and damper regions. They have far less to fear from mould and rot and can often get away without spraying their vines at all.
Spain's reds have been undergoing changes over the last few years - there's a new breed of more "international style" fruit-forward, younger and less oaky wines. Traditionally Spanish wines of quality sat in oak for quite a while and then a while longer in bottle before being released, and there was as often as not some oxidation going on - but even in the older style wines this has been cleaned up lately.
Many of the larger Rioja wineries have enormous cellars, some capable of holding upwards of a million bottles. All this storage space (built a long time ago usually) means that many wineries can can release five, seven or even ten year old wines at decent prices. This batch of wines being released at Vintages is skewed to younger wines, but there are a few older vintages for those seeking a more mature flavour profile.
Time constraints at the main tasting mean I didn't try any of the whites. As I write on Tuesday the 24th, when I should have gone to a re-taste of this batch to try the whites as planned, I'm afraid I'm sipping a cold beer in hot Mexico City... By the way, Spain still dominates the relatively small Mexican wine market and I can inform you that after a very un-thorough survey of a few wine stores - privately owned - prices for several of the Spanish wines I know appear to be a little higher than at the LCBO. And don't even think about buying Champagne or Burgundy unless you just don't care...
So no white recommendations this time, but there are some reliable producers featured, including Mission Hill, California's Clos du Val and New Zealand's Kim Crawford.
Back to the reds; In addition to Spain, there are some good reds from Burgundy, a couple of terrific value wines from the Cotes du Rhone, and an odd but thankfully cheap cab/merlot from... Moldova.
To get a hold of any of these wines, visit the LCBO website to check availability near you.
Palacios Remondo La Vendimia 2007. $15.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Rioja
Catchy label, catchy wine. Lovely though slightly muted nose of dark red berry fruit plus licorice and smoke. Smooth and lively on the palate, which has plenty of fruit and even a mocha note as well as more smoke. Fresh and accessible but with decent complexity. 88 points.
The Spanish Reds
Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva 2001. $39.95
Rioja
Fairly big wine here with and aged nose of dark, dried red fruit, with hints of tobacco and licorice adding depth. Super smooth and velvety on the palate, which is full of ripe fruit and the secondary notes follow through. This really is a gran reserva. 91 points.
Cune Vina Real Reserva 2001. $32.95
Rioja
Terrific higher end product from this big Rioja producer. The name stands for Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana - it's been around forever and has somehow shifted from the original Roman-evoking acronym CVNE to Cune. The main winery is built into a mountain near Logrono. It looks and feels the the lair of a James Bond villain, with dozens of serious looking jump-suited men whizzing around the vast caves and winery. Cune often has very worthwhile wines in the mid- to upper-teens. This heavyweight costs more, but has a terrifically complex nose with spicy notes and chocolate over the super ripe dark red fruit. On the palate is smooth, with a good tannins/acid balance and lots of ripe fruit. The secondary notes from the oak are still there and there's a good fresh finish. 90 points.
El Curato Old Vines 2006. $19.95
Toro
There's a rather cooked and jammy nose on this one, with ripe blackberries and it's not overly whelming. However, it's both juicy and nicely fresh on the palate, which is a pleasant surprise. There's lots of red fruit as well as some pepper and woody notes for complexity. There's a slightly chewy quality ending in a fresh finish of cherry. 88 points
Escudero Solar de Becquer Crianza 2004. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rioja
Fresh and fruity nose on this crianza (which represents the first rung of the three tiers of quality in Spanish reds, and the tiers relate to the amount of time spent in oak barrels - the longer, the better, according to the scheme). There's strawberry jam and oak notes including a bit of tobacco. Smooth and lush on the palate, there's a hint of mocha over the fruit. Fresh acidity keeps it lively. 88 points.
Finca Allende Allende 2005. $34.95
Rioja
So good they named it twice? Well whatever they have two "Allendes" for, this is a fine wine. Super nose of very well integrated dark red fruit with spicy notes. It's smooth and fresh on the palate, which has ripe plum and tobacco. Lovely long finish of plum and cherry. 90 points.
Jean Leon Terrasola Tempranillo/Monastrell Crianza 2005. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Catalunya
Good nose of dark red fruit on this mainly tempranillo blend, which has some nice spicy notes to liven it up. Smooth and fresh on the palate, there's ripe plum and cherry fruit and a good lingering finish. 87/88 points.
Luna Beberide Mencia 2006. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Bierzo
Dark and smoky nose on this one, though it's rather muted. Silkily smooth on the palate, which has ripe cherry and berry fruit as well as a plum note. Acidity is fairly high and there's a good finish. 88 points.
Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva 2001. $39.95
Rioja
These giant producers - among the biggest in Spain - are well capable of moving beyond the mass market and here's a good example. Expect the typical Rioja aromas of dark cherry fruit, earthy/woody secondary notes and some tobacco. On the palate it's rich, ripe and smooth. The tannins and acidity are in good balance and it's really, at the age of eight, entering its best phase, though it could still age some more if you wanted to sit on it. 89 points.
Marques de Velilla Crianza 2003. $24.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Ribero del Duero
Rioja's most serious rival for the crown of best Spanish reds, Ribero del Duero has really come into its own over the last decade or so, attracting some of Spain's best winemakers. The ongoing drought and squabbles over water now mean it's very difficult to get permission to start a new winery here, and irrigation is absolutely necessary. This solid 100% tempranillo is everything you want from a Ribero del Duero: big, rich and solid. Fruit dominated nose of ripe cherry and red berry fruit with some lovely aged notes of leather and tobacco. Lovely, smooth and lush on the palate, which is equally full of ripe cherry fruit. The well integrated secondary notes join in with the balanced tannins and acidity and there's a superb and lingering finish. 90 points.
Navarrsotillo Magister Bibendi Crianza 2004. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Bierzo
Alluring nose with plenty of fruit on this 90% tempranillo/10% garnacha from Bierzo - a DO (Denominacion d'Origen) that's been making a lot of waves lately. Already showing some aged notes of leather as well as an earthy/woody note over the ripe strawberry and cherry fruit. The flavour profile continues onto the palate, which is well balanced, darkly fruity, and leading to a great finish. 88 points.
Ontanon Reserva 2001. $24.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Rioja
Lovely muted nose with licorice and smoke over dark red berry fruit. Smooth yet lively on the palate, which introduces a mocha note over the ripe fruit. Acidity is relatively high and there's a great finish that's fresh and pleasant. 89 points.
Pardevalles Gamonal Prieto Picudo 2006. $23.95
Tierras de Leon
This wine is made from 100% Prieto Picudo, so expect a different profile here. Rather spicy nose with woody notes over bright red fruit. Zesty on the palate with its higher acidity, but also smooth. There are smoky notes over the ripe red berry fruit, but it remains very dry. It's full bodied and has a good finish too. Interesting. 88 points.
Quaderna Via Tempranillo Crianza 2004. $18.95
Navarra
Smooth and pleasant nose with ripe cherry and plum fruit, as well as some tobacco. Very smooth and even elegant on the palate, which is plummy, smoky and ripe. Tannins are fairly high and this is another very dry wine. 87 points.
The Sparkling Wines
Tarlant Rose Brut Champagne. $59.95
Lovely salmon colour and and beautiful honeyed nose with wet leaves and light red berry fruit. Small and fresh bubbles on the palate, which has light honeyed fruit. Good acidity and a lovely finish with a vanilla hint. 91 points
Tarlant Zero Brut Nature Champagne. $49.95
Champagne, France
Frsh and lemony nose with yeasty notes. Fairly fizzy on the palate, which is very lemony and quite fruity, including juicy pear. This one is slightly sweeter and less sharp than some “zero brut” – must be all the fresh fruit. Zero brut means no added reserve wine (i.e., sugar) – almost all champagnes add what is known as “dosage” to promote the secondary fermentation, which produces the bubbles, and to add sweetness, which can be lacking in wines from this northerly region. This is an unusual and interesting champagne. 88 points.
The Other Reds
Colio CEV Barrel Aged Reserve Merlot 2002. $19.95
VQA Lake Erie North Shore
This merlot is from one of the southernmost wineries in the province and from one of the hottest (i.e., best) years. It was named Best Merlot at the 2005 Cuvee Wine Awards. Rich nose with dark plum fruit that’s taking on a slight cooked note now. Acidity and tannins are both still high – so this could age more even several years more. There are some woody notes over cherry and plum fruit on the palate, and also some vanilla. 88 points
Emmolo Merlot 2005. $38.95
Napa, California
Here’s a serious Californian by comparison. Rich and very plumy nose, more prune plum in style. Lovely, full and fruity on the palate, which has a hint of chocolate, burnt wood and chewy tannins undergirding the ripe red fruit. This is a big and bold New World merlot with great complexity. 91 points.
Wakefield Merlot 2007 $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Clare Valley, South Australia
Here’s the other New World’s take on merlot – at the most agreeable price of all. Very big nose with dark berry fruit, a bit of plum and a little bit of spice. Rich, full and ripe on the palate, which has nice toasty wood character, cherry and plum fruit and a bit of vanilla towards the lovely finish. Excellent value. 89 points
A By Acacia Pinot Noir 2007. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
California
Napa’s Acacia has a “value priced line” and this is it – presumably the grapes do not originate solely in one county and California’s main winegrowing areas extend 500 miles from north to south, so they're not being specific. Expect a good New World style pinot here: rich and fruity nose of bright red berry fruit. It’s smooth on the palate, acidity is good and there’s a spicy note. Although fruity, it’s got a dry feel and a nice lingering finish. 88 points.
Wolf Blass Gold Label Pinot Noir 2007. $28.95
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Although baking hot by our standards, the Adelaide Hills is a “cooler” climate in Oz, hence the pinot. Not surprisingly however, I noted it as “not too characteristic”. This is a bigger style pinot with a very woody nose and lots of dark cherry fruit. It’s smooth and dry on the palate, which has more cherry fruit. It’s rather full bodied for a pinot and has very ripe fruit. Not too acidic, but not round either. 88 points.
Chateauy Haut-Sarpe 2004. $49.95
Bordeaux, France
This St. Emilion blend is merlot dominated and delivers the fruit you expect from the AC. Rich nose with spicy and toasty notes over dark plum fruit. Beautifully smooth on the palate, which has nice woody notes of toast and smoke. There’s some slightly sour cherry fruit as well. Tannins still very evident and acidity is good. Lovely long fruity finish that just keeps going. 90 points.
Clos du Grand Puceau 2004. $27.95
Bordeaux, France
Very ripe red berry fruit – another St. Emilion here. There’s a spicy note as well as a surprising mineral hint. Super smooth on the palate, which has lots more ripe berry fruit. Acidity and tannins are both high, meaning, with all this fruit, that this will continue to improve for a few years – sit on it till 2012 & turn it into a $50/60 wine. 89 points.
Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau Cuvee Prestige 2004. $24.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Bordeaux, France
Here’s a well priced winner from the Cotes de Blaye appellation and another mainly merlot blend. Very big nose with lots of plumy dark red fruit and the first sold tendrils of age development coming through. Super smooth and smoky on the palate, which has more ripe plum fruit. Great long finish. 89 points.
Domaine du Penlois Beaujolais-Villages 2007. $14.95
Beaujolais, France
Big nose of ripe yet fresh red berry fruit – raspberry and strawberry as you’d want. However it’s less fruity than expected on the palate. The acidity is high and it’s nicely dry, so this would make a pleasant food wine – lighter meats.
Domaine Michel Caillot Beaune 1er Cru Les Avaux 2005. $39.95
Burgundy, France
Rich, woody and smoky nose with muted red berry fruit. Very dry on the palate, which has grippy tannins under the ripe red fruit. More smoke and earthy notes add complexity and there’s a lovely lingering finish – this is a terrific Burgundy from the best year so far this century. 90 points.
Nicolas Potel Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes 2005. $49.95
Burgundy, France
Petit Mars 2006. $23.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Languedoc, France
Lovely, lively nose with spice and pepper notes over ripe plum and cherry on this mainly syrah blend that includes the other two main Rhone reds, grenache and mourvedre. Beautifully smooth, ripe and richly fruity on the palate. Acidity and tannins are both high, but well balanced with each other and the fruit. Good finish of plums. 90 points.
Cellier des Daupins Reserve Saint-Maurice 2007. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006. $37.95
Rhone Valley, France
Perrin & Fils Cairanne Peyre Blance 2006. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Sportoletti Assisi Rosso 2006. $21.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Umbria, Italy
Crico Codru Red 2000. $13.95
Moldova
Not a typical provenance for a wine, but this former Soviet Socialist Republic does have the benefit of cheapness: here's an eight-year-old wine for fourteen bucks. This 75/25 cab/merlot blend has an oddly dusty nose - "concrete dust over ripe cherries," I wrote. It's a little thin on the palate, but there's a good amount of nice ripe cherry fruit. Good acidity, soft tannins and a plummy finish round this reasonable cheapie out. 86/87 points.
.jpg){kind=logo}
.jpg)
