The "Uncork New York" bandwagon rolled into town recently and put on a show at the stylish new George Brown College culinary centre on King Street East. We learned about developments in the wine industry just over the border. And what a pleasant - if pricey - surprise.
The most important winegrowing area in New York is the Finger Lakes, just south of Rochester, perhaps a three or four hour drive from Toronto. The scenic lakes are the water filled depressions gouged out by glaciers during the Ice Age, and they help moderate the harsh climate of northern New York much as Lake Ontario helps out Niagara. But rising fast is eastern Long Island, especially the area near the rich people playground, The Hamptons.
Being from a climate similar to Niagara's, the Finger Lakes wines to look for are, surprise, surprise, riesling, chardonnay and, though I didn't try any, pinot noir. There are 96 wineries in the region and the New York Wine & Culinary Center in Canandaigua is a $7.5 million facility that opened in 2005 that showcases wines and beers from around the state.
On a muscle-flexing note, Canandaigua was the original home (and name) of the largest producer of wine (by volume) in the world, Constellation. The company was founded in 1945, renamed in 2000 and it bought Canada's heavyweight Vincor in 2006. So they're not just messing around in the Finger Lakes.
Long Island's eastern reaches, especially the North Fork and Hamptons, are developing a reputation for quality reds. Located on the 42nd parallel, this region is noticeably warmer and sunnier, with an average annual temperature about 4-6F degrees higher than the Finger Lakes.
One not so pleasant surprise about the wines we tried were the prices: not cheap. But then while the Finger Lakes may be relatively rustic, Long Island's North Fork makes Niagara seem like the backwoods. According to an article in Newsday (Long Island's daily paper) in 2006, "chefs who made their names in Manhattan kitchens preside over restaurants where dinner for two costs $400. And visitors stream in - to sample a lemon ginger coconut loaf at a new bakery, to scamper around in a corn maze [huh?], to unwind in a spa, to buy second homes in the place that some have dubbed the un-Hamptons destination for those put off by Hamptons pretensions."
With the price of farmland at US$40,000 per acre minimum, and high labour, taxation and health insurance costs, Long Island winemakers need to charge more.
George Brown College students prep superior canapes for the wine tasting in the cool open kitchen on King St. E. Must try and have lunch there some time...
The Wines of New York
Prices are given for Ontario unless not known, in which case US ex-winery prices are given.
Whites
Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2006. US$16.99 (C$22)
Fresh mineral nose with a hint of petrol, a bit of citrus peel and apricot. Fuller than expected on the palate, though the acidity is quite high. Fresh ripe white fruit dominates and the finish is good, but with a hint of overripe fruit. 88 points.
Peconic Bay Winery Riesling 2006. $23.20
Odd nose - muted yet fresh white fruit, not too aromatic and, though there's no "petrol" initially some notes do eventually emerge. Rich and ripe peach fruit on the palate. Acidity is good and there's an odd salty note... the nearby ocean? There's also nice lemon and lime, which you want in a riesling, and a nice finish. This one grows on you. 88 points.
Paumanok Vineyards Chenin Blanc 2007. $40
Paumanok was the First Nations name, used by the 13 indigenous tribes, for Long Island. Nod to the precursors of les europeens aside, this is a terrific chenin blanc. It's an underrated Loire Valley grape that gets a lot of traction in South Africa, and now, in the shadow of Jerry Sienfeld's Hamptons spread (well, more or less). Very light white fruit with aromatic notes including white flowers. Acidity is high and there's ripe peach and apricot fruit with an pleasing dark note. It's very smooth and there's a good, refreshing finish. 89 points.
Bedell Cellars Taste White 2007. $38.40
Also from the North Fork of Long Island, this one's got another odd nose - citrus peel, white fruit and floral. Acidity is high on the palate, which has lemon and that salty note again... I wasn't eating any crackers or peanuts so I wonder if it's a regional thing. Nice lemon fruit and a lovely smooth finish to this blend of mainly chardonnay plus sauv blanc, viognier & gewurz. 88 points
White Springs Farm Estate Winery Gewurztraminer 2007. $22.60
Back to the Finger Lakes (Seneca, if you know them), this gewurz has a lovely aromatic nose with floral, passion fruit and lemon. Quite big and juicy on the palate, which has fresh acidity and vague white fruit. Pleasant. 88 points.
Reds
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Franc 2005. $47.20
From the Hudson River AVA - a really beautiful river valley not too far north of NYC - this interesting cab franc has a very rich and dark nose of extracted dark red fruit, including red apple. Very full bodied on the palate, but with nicely fresh acidity. Some characteristic green pepper notes emerge from the very ripe red berry fruit. There's a nice woody note too. Lovely finish. 89/90 points.
Prejean Winery Cabernet Franc 2006. $22
Back to the Finger Lakes - do you see a pricing trend emerging? - this cab franc is not overly characteristic. There is a bold nose with plummy and almost stewed fruit, but then it's really lovely on the palate. Nice balance of acidity and tannins and a very slight green pepper note emerges. Lovely finish. 88 points.
Raphael Winery Merlot 2001. $33.95
From Long Island's North Fork, this one has a rich and bold nose of dark red fruit. Very big and spicy on the palate, which is not showing much in the way of aged notes: interesting considering it's well beyond adolescence. Plum, tobacco and road tar are also on the palate, which is smooth. Good finish. Very New World style merlot here. 88 points
Osprey's Dominion Vineyards Meritage 2005. $54.35
Another North Fork red, this one's got a smooth and rich nose of dark red cherry and blackberry fruit. Not much secondary or darker notes. Quite big on the palate, which has lots of rich ripe plummy fruit, plus cherries. A hint of tobacco adds some complexity and the finish is terrific and even includes pencil shavings - wow. 90/91 points
Macari Vineyards and Winery Bergen Road Meritage 2004. $72.95
Lovely and muted nose of dark plum and blackberry fruit. Absolutely beautiful on the palate, which is smooth and rich and has spicy notes too, as well as some vanilla. Very New World fruity, with a lovely plum finish with some secondary notes swirling around. 91 points.
Unfortunately not too many of New York's wines are available here, but if you can't make it to Buffalo or the Finger Lakes, try contacting John Hanna & Sons agents at 800-337-7043 or ask for help from a Vintages consultant. Worth the effort.
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