There are 3-star, 5-star, 10-point and 20-point guides for rating wines, and no doubt others too. But more and more reviewers are using the 100-point system pioneered by American wine king Robert Parker. Perhaps it's fuzzy memories of school exams, but the public seems to understand and like the system - so much so that Vintages can create a release entitled "90+ wines" confident that its customers will know it doesn't refer to the number of different wines availaible.
With the tasting notes below, first is the pick of the week, then Vintages' picks of "90+" whites, followed by their "90+" reds, followed by other whites & other reds.
In the case of the "90+ Wines", my ranking is given first and then, in square brackets, the source Vintages used for the "90+" rating. Guide: RP = Robert Parker; eRP = eRobertParker, which is RP's team of tasters, which includes rising UK star Neal Martin; WS = Wine Spectator; WE = Wine Enthusiast. Others spelled out in full or with critic's surname.
Chakana Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. $13.95 ** TOP VALUE **
Mendoza, Argentina
It seems a shame to highlight a cheapie on this grand release of many fine wines, but that's the way it goes with the Top Value pick. Argentina delivers as usual, in this case with a moderate nose of dark berry fruit, ripe cherry and charred wood adding depth. Smooth on the palate, which is very fruity. Tannins are about medium, so it's edging towards "easy drinking", but there's some complexity and lively, zesty finish. 87 points.
Their 90+ Whites
Ernest & Julio Gallo Two Rock Vineyard Chardonnay 2004. $29.95
Sonoma, California
Darker nose here - it's fairly muted in the fruit dept. and there are nutty notes. Good acidity on the fresh palate that manages to be smooth too. Lemon fruit and butterscotch notes, medium bodied and a good lemony finish. 90 points. [RP 90]
Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay 2005. $26.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Napa, California
Another muted nose here, but there are oaky notes present, including vanilla and a bit of toast. Smooth and rich on the palate, which has lemon notes and more obvious oak. Good finish with smoky note. 89 points [WE 90]
Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2006. $23.95
Eden Valley, South Australia
A bit of "barrel stink" on the nose - a sour edge to the smokiness that initially smells off. This clears somewhat, but get past it and you'll enjoy a lovely smooth palate with lemon, apple and more smoke. Fairly full bodied and ripe. Nice finish with smoke. 88 points. [eRP 90]
Milton Opou Vineyard Chardonnay 2006. $23.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Gisborne, New Zealand
Beautiful fresh and clean Burgundian style chardonnay - lemon and honeysuckle on the nose, nicely muted. Smooth and rather elegant on the palate, which has fresh aciidity, citrus notes, some minerality and a very good finish. 91 points. [eRP 93]
Pierre Sparr Mambourg Riesling 2000. $29.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Alsace, France
Superior Alsace riesling here - lovely bold nose with soapy petrol notes over super ripe fruit which has just a hint of raisin. This 8-year old is aging nicely already, you think, getting ready for rich and possibly off-dry fruit. But then the palate is super fresh and dry with nice mineral notes: the aromatics and richness are on the nose on this terrific older riesling that reminds me that I prefer Alsacian sleekness to German voluptuousness. 92 points [WE 90]
Eugenio Collavini Sauvignon Blanc Fumat 2006. $16.95 ** VERY GOOD VALUE **
Collio, Italy
Lovely bold nose with everything sauv blanc has to offer - tons of rich tropical fruit, lemon and herbaceous/grassy notes. It's a little rounder on the palate than it could be, but the fruit follows through deliciously and the herbaceous notes stay as well. Nice finish. 88 points. [WS 90]
Their 90+ Reds
J. Lohr Hilltop Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $39.95
Paso Robles, California
Super ripe and extracted nose verging on jammy - dark cherry and ripe strawberry fruit with tobacco notes in the background. Surprisingly fresh and smooth on the palate even as the tannins are still very bold. The super ripe fruit is perhaps a little overdone, giving this a soft and juicy feel, but there is good complexity too. Lovely finish. 89 points [Wine News 91]
Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz 2006. $34.95
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Rich and full nose with a more Old World style - there's dark berry fruit, but also herbal and spicy notes and it's more earthy than a typical Aussie. It's all Oz on the palate though - full bodied, ripe cherry and dark plum fruit, and very fresh as well. Tobacco notes, good balance of tannins, acidity and alcohol. Great finish. 91 points [eRP 92-94]
Magpie Estate The Sack Shiraz 2005. $21.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Big rich nose with ripe plum, lots of tobacco, spice and some pepper. Very smooth and full on the palate, which has chocolate and coffee notes over the rich fruit, which is not overdone or jammy. Lovely lingering finish. 91 points [91 eRP]
Paracombe Cabernet Franc 2005. $24.95
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Well here's a rarity: an Aussie cab franc. And no, it doesn't taste anything like its Ontario sisters. But then here's the current 5-day forecast for Adelaide, where it's summertime: 34, 31, 32, 31 and 35, and sunny every day. So it's understandable that in such a hot climate the cab franc delivers a rich ripe fruit on the nose - blackberry and ripe plum with the typical green pepper aroma in this case delivering a fermented note: not promising. But lovely smooth surprise on the palate, which has lots of ripe berry fruit and fresh cigar notes. Great fresh finish too. It doesn't taste like a cab franc, but it does taste good. 89 points. [Halliday 90]
Couly-Dutheil La Baronnie Madelaine Chinon 2005. $21.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Loire Valley, France
Here's a French product from the home of cabernet franc - and one of very few places in France that produces 100% cab franc wines - Chinon. Bold notes of ripe dark red fruit, a green pepper note and dusty tobacco. Super smooth and ripe on the palate, which is less fruity than expected based on the nose. Nice tobacco notes give complexity and there's a terrific uplift on the finish. 90 points [WS 92]
Clos de Sixte 2006. $26.95
Rhone Valley, France
Here's a GSM in that order: 50% grenache, 35% syrah and 15% mourvedre. Expect a rich and fruity nose with cherries, raspberries and blackberries, and secondary notes of spice, cigar box and burnt wood. Smooth yet zesty on the palate, which is less fruity than expected after the nose. Tannins and acidity are both high and there's an odd bit of lemon zest on the finish, which is very nice. 89 points [RP 90]
Delas Domaine Des Grands Chemins Crozes-Hermitage 2006. $28.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Rhone Valley, France
The biggest appellation in the northern Rhone is a reliable place to look for quality and Delas delivers. This 100% syrah has a rich and rather dark nose with some nice flower petal notes over the plum and bing cherry fruit. Super smooth and fresh on the palate, tannins are about medium but the acidity is elevated. Secondary notes of tobacco, herbal and pepper add terrific complexity to this smoothie. Good finish too of course. 90 points. [RP 90-92]
Domaine du Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006. $72.95
Rhone Valley, France
Chateauneuf-du-Pape is perhaps the most famous of the Rhone appellations and is also home to some super pricey long-lived collectables like Chateau de Beaucastel. But Vieux Telegraph is no slouch either. This GSM blend offers a richly fruity nose of very ripe cherries, a bit of tobacco and some spice. The tannins are smooth, the acidity is about medium. There's more rich tobacco on the palate, which has lovely ripe cherry and berry fruit. And, I noted, it "keeps getting better" the more you taste it. 92 points. [RP 90-93]
Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva 2004. $31.95
Tuscany, Italy
Rich and bold nose of ripe dark red fruit - blackberries and plum. There are also notes of red flowers and smoke. Smooth and rich on the palate, which is very dry. Acidity and tannins are both elevated. Good finish of plum and smoke. 89 points. [eRP 90]
Montecillo Gran Reserva 2001. $31.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Rioja, Spain
Terrific old-style Rioja here with a dark and even dusty nose with the dried red fruit perhaps a little over-extracted, but balanced with green notes (in a good way). Cherry fruit. Smooth and delightfully fresh on the palate - a nice surprise after the grumpy old nose. Rich cherry fruit comes through loud and clear as the tannins have softened by now. Nice leather notes from the age effects which are developing nicely and a great fresh finish with chewy cherry fruit and vanilla. This is good now, but if you can sit on it for a few more years it'll get even better: promise. 91 points. [WE 91]
The Other Whites
Inniskillin Winemaker's Series Three Vineyards Chardonnay 2007. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
VQA Niagara
Very light and fresh nose wtih honeysuckle, white fruit and vanilla notes. Fresh, light and smooth on the palate, which has a layer of butterscotch over lemon fruit. Nice balance of acidity and body, good finish. 88 points.
Hess Chardonnay 2006. $19.95
Monterey, California
Nicely muted and melon-y nose with a hint of yeast. Crisp acidity on the palate gives way to smooth vanilla and lemon and leads to a smooth and somewhat buttery finish. 88 points.
D'Arenberg The Olive Grove Chardonnay 2007. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
McLaren Vale, South Australia
Very fruity fresh nose with apple fruit and some darker notes. Fresh and quite full on the palate, with more apple fruit. Smooth lemony finish - a very New World chardonnay. 88 points.
Kim Crawford Kim's Favourite SP Chardonnay 2006. $24.95
Gisborne, New Zealand
Quite big nose with apple fruit and darder notes. Big on the palate, which has fresh green apple, smoky notes and toast. Nice finish. Very New World as well. 88 points.
Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner 2007. $21.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Kamptal, Austria
This terrific gruner velt is bigger and richer than the norm for this, Austria's finest, grape. It's fresh and lively on the nose with green apple and a bit of spice. Dry and fuller than expected on the palate. There's ripe white fruit, white pepper and a good finish. 90 points.
Maison Champy Bourgogne Signature Chardonnay 2006. $22.95
Burgundy, France
Lovely fresh nose with applesauce and oaky notes of vanilla. Acidity is nicely crisp, yet it's smooth on the palate, which has lemon, green apple and there's a hint of smoke on the pleasant finish. 88 points.
Teruzzi & Puthod Vernaccia Di San Gimignano 2007. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Tuscany, Italy
Fresh and fruity nose with melon, apple and citrus on this wine from the only DOCG in red-dominated Tuscany that makes white, using the local grape vernaccia. The fruity nose doesn't prepare you for the super-zingy, almost sharp acidity on the palate. There's enough fruit to balance it though, and the end effect is good. I wrote "very refreshing". 88 points.
Cachazo Carrasvinas Rueda Verdejo 2007. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rueda, Spain
Spain's sauvignon blanc delivers as usual at a good price. Super rich and fruity nose - pineapple, lemon, passion fruit with a fresh edge. Even though the acidity is high, there's a rich and round feel on the palate. The fruit is very ripe, there's more passion fruit and some lemon. Fun. 87 points.
The Other Reds
Inniskillin Reserve Series Cabernet Franc 2007. $18.75
VQA Niagara
Rich dark nose with moderate fruit, green pepper and spicy notes plus pepper. Dry and earthy on the palate, the fruit is muted but there, and it is ripe. OK finish. "Have with meat," I wrote. 87 points.
Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Celestial Blue Label Malbec 2006. $27.95
Napa, California
A blue label on a wine is just not right. Perhaps I'm making associations with Blue Nun or that dreadful blue liqueur Curacao, but it's not right. So forgive Coppola his colour transgression, because he's delivered a very interesting, if a little pricey, malbec here. According to Vintages, Coppola "discovered" malbec while working on a film in Argentina and decided to give it a go in California. Very bold, rich nose with some milk chocolate, spice and pepper notes over very dark cherry fruit. Quite tannic on the palate, but the acidity is fresh and the body's a little lighter than expected. More cherry fruit, a slight green note, and a decent finish. 87/88 points.
Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Pinot Noir 2006. $21.95
Northern California
This delicious and very New World pinot is apparently sourced from vineyards in a number of counties around mid- and northern California. Rich bright cherry notes on the nose with enough hint of darkness under to make it interesting. Dark cherry fruit on the palate, which is pretty smooth, and more fruity than earthy. Nice finish. 87/88 points.
Mornington Estate Pinot Noir 2006. $20.95
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
Here's another New World pinot that's both a little better and a buck cheaper. Rich and bold nose of ripe fruit - cherry, strawberry and a spicy note. Smooth and fresh on the palate, which has more strawberries and cherries. There really isn't much in the way of secondary notes here, but nevertheless it's smooth, delicious, and a nice example of the warmer climate style of pinot. 88 points.
Tyrell's Lost Block Pinot Noir 2007. $19.95
South Eastern Australia
It's kind of alarming to have something from "South Eastern Australia" for that is by far the world's largest wine region geographically - grapes in the same bottle could come from vineyards hundreds of kilometres apart. Wines not noted as being from one of numerous smaller regions within SE Australia (say, Hunter Valley) are often mass-market, inferior quality efforts. But fear not with Tyrrell's Lost Block. While I noted it as "easy drinking", this very New World style pinot is interesting. A fruity and smoky nose to start, then there's good acidity, moderate tannins and lots of ripe cherry fruit and a nice finish. 87 points.
Organic Vignerons Australia Ova Shiraz/Cabernet 2005. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
South Australia
The "Ova" that dominates the label is off-putting - a fertility drink for would-be mothers? Will it yield octuplets? The answer is no, but it will yield a super rich and dark nose with burnt wood and tobacco taking the front seat with the cherry and blackberry fruit in the back. Fresh and smooth on the palate, which has lots of ripe berry fruit that is very nicely restrained. There's also a bit of chocolate in the middle, and a nice finish. So get cracking! Get to work on an Ova. 88 points.
St. Lucas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $16.95
Mendoza, Argentina
Fairly dark nose with woody notes and a bit of green dominating - rather more Old World style than expected from Mendoza. Some tobacco notes too. Smooth and lighter than expected on the palate, with lighter red berry fruit. Acidity's a bit high, tannins moderate and there's a nice finish of cherries. Great with a big steak, I think. 87 points.
In Situ Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2006. $ 15.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Aconcagua Valley, Chile
Fresh nose with bold green notes - is this actually a "cellared in Chile" using Niagara grapes? The public demands to know! However, they'll know it's really Chilean once they hit the palate: dark, ripe cherry and berry fruit dominate the fresh and full-bodied mid-palate, tobacco and even some butterscotch notes emerge towards the nice finish. Very pleasant. 87 points.
Chateau Bourdieu La Valade 2000. $34.95
Bordeaux, France
Beautiful rich nose of ripe plums, cherry and lots of earthy secondary notes. Smooth and still very fresh on the palate - very approachable. Good ripe red fruit, acidity high and tannins medium. Lovely finish. This 2000 vintage is ready now. 89 points.
Chateau Ferran 2005. $32.95
Bordeaux, France
Lovely rich dark nose - black cherries, berries and leather. Nicely smooth on the palate, which has lots of cherry fruit, as well as tobacco notes. Acidity and tannins both still high, and there's a fresh finish with a nice fruity ending. 88 points.
Perrin Rasteau L'Andeol 2006. $19.95
Rhone Valley, France
Rasteau is one of the Cotes du Rhone Villages and, in my view, it usually disappoints, with thin and sometimes even sour wines. Solid producers Perrin work their magic and manage to elevate things somewhat. Ripe nose of dark red fruit - cherry edging towards kirsch. Smooth and fresh on the palate, even though the acidity is very high. The fruit is rather muted (welcome to Rasteau!) but it's OK and there's even a lemon note on the sharp finish. 87 points.
Cosme Palacio Y Hermanos Reserva 2004. $24.95
Rioja, Spain
Very ripe nose of leather and red fruit - plum and black cherry. Very smooth and fresh on the palate, which has lighter cherries and fresher plums. Not much in the way of secondary notes on the palate, but there's a lovely finish of plum and cherries. 89 points.
Juan Gil Monastrell 2007. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Jumilla, Spain
This Monastrell from the south east of Spain has a rich and big nose of black cherries and tobacco and a lovely hint of French vanilla. Fresh and zesty on the palate - the acidity is high and there's even a bit of a sour note - but the fruit comes back nicely at the end for an almost sweet finish. 87 points.
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