Argentina is the theme country this release, and while the whites aren't as impressive as they could be, there's certainly a good selection of well made, well priced reds.
Argentina has long been a big producer and consumer of wines - immigration from Spain and Italy means the country has long had a big wine culture. It's also got some of the best winegrowing conditions in the world and the world's highest altitude vineyards. In Mendoza, it's dry, sunny and warm without being too hot. Mendoza is northwest of Buenos Aires at the point where the Andes really start to get big. Some of the tallest mountains in South America are in Mendoza province where it borders Chile. So even though it's at the 33rd parallel south (the equivalent of too-warm-for-wine Southern California or South Carolina), the high altitude keeps things cooler and fresher.
After many years of producing mediocre wines for the home market, Argentina has attracted international interest over the past 20 years or so as the world's wine industry boomed: conditions are good there and, the odd currency collapse/debt default aside, it's proven to be a decent enough money-maker that big European investors have come into the market. Indeed, for a taste of the next level of quality from Argentina, check out the wine made by winemaker superstar Michel "Micro-oxygenate" Rolland. His quirky four-grape blend Clos De Los Siete is very fine.
As noted in last week's release, which I think offered an excellent selection and which you should check out, I believe that in 2009 the best value country will continue to be Argentina - the currency has been stable or rising against the C$ lately and local inflation could top 20% this year, but costs remain lower than other countries.
There's a terrific trio of Spaniards worth checking out and some very good - if pricier - French efforts from several of the key regions this week as well. But there are some good opportunities to go Argentinean this week, and you'll do better sticking to the reds.
Salentien Reserve Malbec 2006. $17.95 ** TOP VALUE **
Mendoza, Argentina
Very dark nose with slightly cooked red berry fruit. Tannins are high and acidity is medium on the palate, which is quite juicy. Very approachable and plummy, with a bit of tobacco too. Good finish. 88 points.
The White Wines
Dona Paula Estate Chardonnay 2007. $16.95
Mendoza, Argentina
Fruity nose with good white fruit notes. Fresh and zesty on the palate, which has a bit of vanilla over the fruit and some nice sweet lemon notes. Slightly toasty on the finish. 87 points.
J&F Lurton Flor de Torrontes 2007. $13.95
Mendoza, Argentina
Here's an inexpensive way to try Argentina's own white grape - Torrontes has been cultivated there for a very long time and it is not related to a similarly named grape from Galicia in Spain. According to Jancis Robinson's encyclopedia, it is the most planted white grape in Argentina. Producers are making a push to get more Torrontes into Canadian wine glasses, but it's not really a "mainstream" (i.e., bland) wine. So if you're the adventurous type, this decent example has a very aromatic nose of rich white fruit with some floral notes too. Very fresh acidity and good body on the palate, though the alcohol comes through a bit too much. There's smooth ripe yellow plum fruit and more floral notes. This would be a rich and bold change from riesling or gewurz. 87 points.
Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008. $19.95
Marlborough, New Zealand
Very big NZ nose of grassy herbaceousness here... OTT even. Good body on the palate, which has medium acidity and lots of tropical fruit notes - they're covering both angles of sauv blanc here. There's passion fruit, guava and a very ripe feel all round on the full palate. Good finish. 88 points.
Kuhlmann-Platz Riesling 2006. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Alsace, France
Rich nose with ripe fruit notes and a hint of raisin. Fresh and zesty on the palate, which has good acidity. There's lemon and mineral/stone notes and, although the fruit is ripe and rich, it's very much on the dry side. Nice finish of ripe fruit. 88 points.
Chateau Brondelle Blanc 2007. $18.95
Bordeaux, France
Fresh citrus nose with some darker vegetal notes on this Bordeaux blanc blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon. Acidity is high and it's very fruity on the palate, which has green apples and lemon fruit. OK finish of lemon. 87 points.
Bottega Vinaia Pinot Grigio 2007. $16.95
Trentino, Italy
Quite muted nose but good fresh fruit and nice acidity on the palate of this straight-down-the-line pinot grigio. Lemon and ripe white fruit on the palate, which is reasonably full and which has just a hint of the pinot grigio undertone. 87 points.
The Argentinean Reds
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $19.95
Mendoza, Argentina
Rich dark nose with some spicy notes. Soft red fruit on the full palate - cherries and plum. Tannins are about medium, so it's fairly soft and easy drinking, but a nice touch of cigar box adds complexity. Nice lingering finish of cherry. 87 points.
Chakana Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $16.95
Mendoza, Argentina
Rich and fruity nose with ripe blackberries over vanilla. Acidity and tannins are both high and there's plenty of woody notes and vanilla there too. Very dry, cherry fruit, good finish. Serve this with big meats. 87 points.
Clos De Los Seite 2007. $23.95
Mendoza, Argentina
A little on the pricey side for an Argentinean, but then the legendary flying winemaker Michel Rolland is behind it. And it's good too: Lovely rich nose with ripe cherry and strawberry fruit and darker notes of cigar box and a nice floral hint. Fresh acidity, tannins are high and there's cigar and muted fruit on the finish. The flavours are all over the place because this is a blend of malbec, cab sauv, syrah and merlot. Very New World. 88 points.
Don Eugenio Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Mendoza, Argentina
Fairly rich nose of dark red fruit here. It's smooth on the palate, with lighter, fresher fruit - mainly cherry - and a bit of tobacco giving it some oomph. Well priced. 87 points.
Joffre E Hijas Premium Merlot 2004. $29.95
Mendoza, Argentina
Rich and chocolatey nose with woody notes and dark red fruit - ripe plums. Smooth and full on the palate. Tannins are high and, though the acidity's about medium, it's still fresh and there's a nice finish with tobacco and cherry. A rich, quality red. 88/89 points.
Rutini Turmpeter Malbec 2006. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Mendoza, Argentina
The rather generic and candied nose is not promising, but there's very nice depth on the palate. Fruity and fresh, bright and plummy - but there are nice earth and tobacco notes and even a bit of lemon towards the fresh finish. A step up from Fuzion, still great value. 87 points.
Santa Ana La Mascota Malbec 2006. $15.95
Mendoza, Argentina
Very woody nose with some dark red fruit promising a heavyweight - but it's far lighter than expected on the palate. There's plum and sour cherry fruit. Tannins are high, but reasonably soft. There's even a nice hint of chocolate on the finish, which is plummy and lengthy. 87 points.
Rich Spanish Trio
Two terrific Riojas and a wine from nearby Aragon (DO Carinena) merit a pullout. Terrific examples of quality and value coming together in both the older and the more modern Spanish style.
R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Cubillo Crianza 2002. $26.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rioja, Spain
Older style Rioja here - more developed and darker nose with wood and cigars over the dark fruit. Super smooth on the palate - the tannins have calmed down but the acidity is very good still. Delicate, elegant, and a lovely pale colour too. Terrific finish of cherries and tobacco. 90 points.
Rioja Bordon Crianza 2004. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rioja, Spain
Another pale one here, but this is fresher and more modern in style (and younger) Good ripe cherry fruit on the nose, which also has the requisite woody/earthy notes. Good ripe chewy cherries on the palate, which is nicely dry. Good lingering finish. 88 points.
Bodegas Victoria Pardini 2005. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Aragon, Spain
Even though it's from DO Carinena, this wine doesn't contain any carinena (Spanish for carignan grape) - what gives? According to John Radford in The New Spain, this DO (Denominacion d'Origen) is where carinena got its start, yet it accounts for less than 10% of the region's vines. DO Carinena was among the first Spanish winegrowing areas to have its borders delimited. In any case, this 90% tempranillo/10% cab sauv is terrific. Ripe cherry fruit on the nose with good earthy/woody notes under. Nice complexity on the palate, which has ripe red cherry fruit, cigar and smoky notes. Great finish of cherry. 89 points.
The Other Reds
Parri Estate Shiraz/Viognier 2006. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Southern Fleurie, South Australia
Super peppery on the nose - it really dominates, with both white and black pepper. This carries through onto the palate, which has other spicy notes over the fresh red berry fruit that also has some sour cherry. Smooth finish with a parting shot of white pepper. I wrote "wrong, but interesting", whatever that means... 88 points.
Rosemount Show Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. $23.95
Mudgee, New South Wales
Rich nose of dark red fruity with even darker undertones of burnt wood. Smooth and fresh on the palate. Acidity is high and the tannins are medium. Rather an elegant feel to this otherwise very New World cab. Nice plummy, cherry finish. 88 points.
Western Range Julimar Shiraz/Viognier 2006. $21.95
Perth Hills, Western Australia
Rich dark nose with ripe red berry fruit and a bit of pepper. Some darker woody notes too. Acidity is medium and the tannins relatively pronounced. Nice finish with plum fruit and tobacco. 89 points.
Moreson Pinotage 2006. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Cape Province, South Africa
Well here's a wine I normally consider poison. Pinotage is South Africa's own wine grape and it hasn't caught on anywhere else. But they've got a lot of it planted so it behooves them to promote it, even though it's generally rough, sour and unpleasant. And big too, so you can't escape it. However it is possible to find pleasantly quaffable pinotage and here's a great example. Typically dark/earthy notes on the nose but enough dark berry fruit to intrigue. Fairly smooth on the palate, and acidity and tannins are both medium. Some coffee notes and just a slight sourness, but this is over solid and pleasantly ripe dark berry fruit. Good finish too. 88 points.
Chateau Bel Air 2005. $27.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Bordeaux, France
Rich dark nose with cigar over dark red berry fruit. Fresh acidity and the tannins are about medium, so nicely drinkable already. Cherries, cigar, orange peel, smoke and earth join in a complex and alluring swirl. Good finish and a good price for a quality Bordeaux. 90 points.
Chateau Suau Rouge 2005. $23.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Bordeaux, France
Rich and bold nose with cigar, earth, smoke and blackberries. Fresh ripe cherry fruit with more dark berries on the palate. Really great fruit in this - 05 was a good year in BX. Good finish too. 89 points.
Chateau de Treviac 2007. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Corbieres, France
Fresh and fruity nose from this normally bigger, darker AC. Lots of ripe red plums. Smooth on the palate, with tannins nicely moderated and good acidity. Cigar box and charred wood complement the ripe plum fruit. Good finish. 88 points.
Domaine Pardon Fleurie 2006. $20.95
Beaujolais, France
Super gamay nose of fresh cherries and just a hint of darker notes. Fuller than expected on the palate, which has more ripe red fruit. Darker notes and tannins give it some depth. Good lingering finish. 88 points.
Domaine Latour-Giraud Maranges La Fussiere 2005. $30.95
Burgundy, France
Rich and dark nose on this Burg - earthy, woody, smoky and lots of dark red fruit. Smooth, soft and juicy fruit on the palate - bing cherries - plus secondary notes of wood. Good lingering finish. 89 points.
Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure Beaune 2006. $34.95 ** GOOD PREMIUM VALUE **
Burgundy, France
Rich and smooth nose of dark cherry fruit and earthy notes. Acidity is high and tannins medium so there's a soft feel overall - dark and delicious. Lovely finish. 90 points.
Domaine Taupenot-Merme Saint-Romain 2005. $38.95
Burgundy, France
Rich pinot nose of dark cherries and tobacco. Tannins are elevated and acidity about medium, but it's well balanced. Smooth on the elegant and flavourful palate, and a great lingering finish. 89 points.
Cave de Tain Saint-Joseph Esprit De Granit 2005. $31.95
Rhone Valley, France
Terrific Northern Rhone syrah here - peppery nose with rich ripe red fruit. Dry and fresh on the palate, which has more pepper notes above the fruit. Tannins and acidity are nicely balanced and this is drinkable right now. 88 points.
Perrin & Fils Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2006. $18.95
Rhone Valley, France
Reliable producers Perrin & Sons deliver a richly fruity nose of cherries and red plums over a bit of earth here. Dry and a bit tannic on the palate, but relatively smooth with dark cherry fruit, earthy notes and a good finish. 87/88 points.
Travaglini Nebbiolo 2005. $17.95
Coste della Sesia, Italy
Very light ruby colour on this one and it's a good indicator of the lighter body. Fresh light red berry fruit and some red flower notes on the nose. The palate has nicely balanced tannins and acidity, a medium body and sour cherry fruit. Good finish. 87/88 points.
Tenuta Coppadoro Cotinone 2005. $19.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Daunia, Italy
This oak-aged blend of a couple of Italian grapes with cab sauv is terrifically rich. Bold nose of somewhat extracted dark red fruit and black licorice gives way to a fresh surprise on the palate. There's good fruit, but also wood and tobacco keeping it serious. Super dry but smooth, lovely fresh finish. 89 points.
Mural Tinto 2005. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Douro, Portugal
Rich, ripe red berry nose. Smooth and fresh on the palate, which is medium bodied. Acidity and tannins are both moderate and there's a hint of tobacco giving some depth. Nice smooth finish. 87 points.
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