In the heartland of big, jammy Aussie shiraz, Stuart Bourne and the Barossa Valley Estates winery are turning out more austere and complex shirazes and cabernets, including the renowned E&E Black Pepper Shiraz. Stuart came to town last week.

Established in the 1980s, Barossa Valley Estates is a co-op of grape growers that formed a joint venture with Hardy's in the 1990s. US giant Constellation Wine is now their partner, "But BVE is independent," says the gregarious and fast-talking winemaker Stuart Bourne. I attended a tasting and lunch at Pure Spirit in the Distillery District.

Bourne's parents are Barossa grapegrowers and he's been making wine for over 20 years in different parts of Australia, "but Barossa feels like home. It'll be kicking and screaming that they'll drag my ass outta there," he said. Bourne is not backwards in coming forward about wine and winemaking.  "Toss the bastards together and co-ferment," said Bourne about blending some viognier with the shiraz. "It's something the French have done for years; just half a percent to one percent gives the shiraz an aromatic lift". Bourne had opinions on changing tastes too: "consumers are shifting away from those jammy fat-assed monsters", the likes of which he does not make. He also takes a very dim view of over-oaking: "why do you want a bloody stand of trees getting in the way of the grapes?"

The focus at BVE is on quality. Even though it's a co-op (which you may imagine means birkenstock wearing socialists), they not only do not guarantee to buy a grower's grapes - "we'll sell them on for bulk if they're not up to standard" - but they give bonuses for better grapes - "we pay six different prices for shiraz," says Bourne, who also added that some of the vineyards have yields so low that even Niagara's most careful winemaker would push for more. And there's no more effective way to get better grapes than by reducing the yield - the same amount of nutrients is directed to fewer berries.

When I commented on the remarkable level of acidity in the 2004, which Bourne had said was hot, he revealed that he "acidifies with natural tartaric acid. Everyone in Australia does it - we have to." If done correctly, as at BVE, it's difficult to discern any difference. If done sloppily, it can become obvious and disjoint the wine. Of the three acids used to acidify, tartaric is permitted almost everywhere and is the most effective (and expensive). Citric and malic acid are the other types of acid used.

In addition to its flagship Black Pepper wine, BVE also does a more accessible "second wine", a high quality cab and a good value "entry level" shiraz that's been on the market here since summer.

The Wines
E Minor Shiraz 2005. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Rich smooth nose of ripe plum, pepper, tobacco and some spice. Lighter and less complex than expected on the palate, which has a lovely austerity unexpected in a Barossa shiraz, and the alcohol is a modest 13.5%. The acidity is fresh and the notes of ripe plum,  spice and pepper are there. Nice finish. When I reviewed it in June, I noted that "this one grew on me" and I don't know why I didn't rate it a "good value" in that release, but I do now. 88 points

Ebenezer Shiraz 2003. $40 (est.)
Richer nose on this wine made from low-yield grapes. There's more woody notes on this one - it spent 18 months months in oak, 25% new - and there's also that dark ripe plum fruit and blackberry, but not over-extracted, as well as some spice and a hint of floral. On the palate, there's tar, asphalt, more spice and rich ripe fruit. Tannins and acidity are elevated so it's once again no big jammy fruit bomb. There's very good complexity here and a good finish on this wine made from "declassified E&E grapes". In other words, this is the "second wine". 89 points

Ebenezer Cabernet Sauvignon 2003. $40 (est.)
Fairly big nose with blackberries, blueberries and some surprising green and leafy notes ("we pick early so it doesn't get jammy and porty"). The oak isn't overdone here and once again, the fruit is more muted on the palate, which is full bodied and nicely balanced and which could benefit from a bit more in the way of secondary notes, but there's a smoothness bordering on elegant. Nice finish. 88 points.

The Top Tier Vertical
The E&E Black Pepper Shiraz is the company's flagship and retails for around $100. The 2004 will be released in Vintages this fall and the 2003 has already been released and Bourne said "there may be a few cases kicking around."  For the lovely 1998 - maybe at an auction house somewhere?

E&E Black Pepper Shiraz 2004.
This year was hotter according to Stuart. Not surprisingly it's got a very youthful colour and nose. There's rich ripe plum and dark berry fruit with solid asphalt notes. Very pleasant on the full bodied palate - acidity and tannins are both high but well balanced. The fruit is ripe and there's more asphalt. There's a good long finish with fresh plums and a bit of charred wood. This one would benefit from some more bottle age. "I think 04 is going to live longer," said Bourne. 90-92 points.

E&E Black Pepper Shiraz 2003.
Very youthful colour and slightly muted nose, but there are rich notes of asphalt, spice and plum. Acidity is high and the tannins about medium, so it's very smooth and on the full bodied palate, which is more muted than in-your-face. Lovely plummy finish that lingers. This one's good now but should continue to improve. 92 points

E&E Black Pepper Shiraz 1998
The colour on this grandad is that of a wine half its age - the first hints of orange are just beginning at the rim. The nose is muted but complex, with the secondary notes of pepper and asphalt more to the fore, though there is dark red fruit and even a floral note. On the palate it's smooth and rich, with plum fruit dominating but there's also tar, floral notes and wood kicking around. Acidity and tannins are both lower than in the younger ones and this one feels almost perfectly balanced - everything is beautifully integrated right through the lovely lingering finish with ripe plums. Ready now, but would certainly hold firm for a few more years. 93 points

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Contact Barossa Valley Estates' Ontario agent colin.brodie@vincor.ca for more information.