Just one chardnnay I tried was unoaked, but the other onesI tried were either lightly oaked or had beautifully integrated oak. It's been a long time coming, but it looks like, at the high end anyway, the tipping point has been reached on oak reduction in the Golden State. I could only manage a brief visit to the tasting, and I missed the usually reliable Chateau St. Jean, but here are a few good Cali chards. Prices are estimates, not all are available retail.
Arrowood Vineyards Chardonnay 2006. $31
Fresh light nose with a hint of lemon - very un-Cali. However it's more typical on the palate, which is fairly full and has butterscotch notes from the nicely integrated oak. The alcohol is maybe a bit evident, but good overall. 88 points.
Arrowood Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay 2007. $43
Smooth and muted nose with just a delicate hint of butterscotch. Nice burst of lemon fruit and gentle smokey oaky notes on the palate. Some fresh white peach fruit in there too and a lovely lingering finish of lemon and smoke. 90 points.
Flowers Winery Sonoma Coast Chardannay 2006. $68
Super smooth and integrated nose of butterscotch, lemon and white fruit, but quite restrained. Very smooth and elegant on the palate, which also managed to be very fresh, with more white fruit and a smoke note. Nice finish too. 90 points.
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Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay 2006. $19.95
This "cheapie" stands up very well to its high powered peers: light fresh nose with a bit of butter and good ripe white fruit, including yellow plum notes. Acidity is crisp and fresh on the palate, which is fairly smooth, rich and exhibits a deft use of oak. Nice buttery finish. Good value. 88 points.
La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2006. $29.95
Fresh lemony nose with lovely apricot and vanilla notes. Acidity is fresh and there's some nice butterscotch on the smooth and slightly oaky palate. Nice zesty lemon finish. 89 points.
Landmark Winery Overlook Chardonnay 2006. $39 (est.)
Rich nose of buttescotch and apple. Surprisingly zippy and fresh acidity on the palate, which has a smooth underlay of butterscotch, white fruit and fairly gentle oak notes. Nice finish. 89/90 points.
Rodney Strong Vineyards Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay 2006. $22.95
Rich nose of lemon and light, buttery oak notes from this reliable producer. Fresh and zesty on the palate, but there's a nice smoothness under the apple, lemon and smoke notes. OK finish. 88 points.
Sonoma Vineyards Chardonnay 2006. $19.95
This one's unoaked! The vibrant turqoise coloured screwcaps will certainly catch your eye on the shelf "It's for people who like to stand out" the sales rep told me. And this one certainly stands out from the crowd of its fancy oaked peers. Super fresh and fruity - there's nothing muted about this nose, with apricot, honeysuckle and lemon notes. Fresh and zippy on the palate, which is reasonably smooth and rich. Definitely a simpler style here but very nice and very rich for an unoaked. 87 points.
If you didn't click on this item in the Wine on the Web section, read here what Slate's Mike Steinberger has to say about oak in California chardonnays.
