Founded by the legendary Harry McWatters, who was recently awarded the Order of British Columbia for his contributions to wine in the province, Sumac Ridge produces 100% BC wine. In addition to its own 115 acre Black Sage vineyard in the scorching south Okanagan, the winery taps growers in the Okanagan and neighbouring Similkameen valleys for additional grapes.
One very good thing about Sumac Ridge is the price/quality ratio, which is among the best in the Okanagan. The Black Sage line is very good and squeaks in just under $20. And Sumac Ridge has good whites in the mid-teens as well.
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Winemaker Mark Wendenberg, pictured holding a bottle of Pinnacle sparkling wine, pointed out that even though sparklers are rare in the Okanagan, Sumac Ridge is serious about it and produces over 28,000 cases a year - making the main brand, Stellar's Jay, the largest single brand of sparkling wine in Canada. He says that the specialized equipment needed to make sparkling wines mean most Okanagan wineries, which tend to be small, decline to make a bubbly. Sumac Ridge has been making a sparkling wine since 1989.
My companions and I were hosted by chef Roger Planiden for a beautiful meal at the winery's Cellar Door Bistro.
Not included in the formal tasting was the 2006 chardonnay we tasted with dinner: very oaky, but smooth, nicely integrated, full and just a bit round: works well with food. Prices are those at the winery.
Selected Wines of Sumac Ridge
Private Reserve Gewurztraminer 2007. $14.99
Rich bold nose with spicy notes over lichee and orange marmelade. Fresh and moderately fruity - acidity is medium but there's enough to keep it lively. Nice spice and some light plum notes on the finish. 87/88 points
White Meritage 2006. $24.99
There's a lot of this blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon in the Okanagan for some reason, and Sumac Ridge is representing. Very oaky nose - so much so that oak dominates. Very fresh and crisp on the palate, and though the smoky, oaky notes dominate here too, some fruit gets through, including lemon. The finish is nice, with popcorn and smoke. Nicely done, but you really better like oak. 87 points.
Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2005. $19.99
Rich ripe nose of dark red fruit and some of the green notes of bell pepper. There's also some tobacco on the nose. The cab franc characteristics are there on the palate, which is medium bodied - blackberries, bell pepper and there's some herbal notes and tobacco too. 88 points.
Black Sage Vineyard Merlot 2005. $19.99
Rich nose of ripe plum fruit as well as some cherry. Super smooth on the palate, with reasonably soft tannins and moderate acidity. Rich ripe cherry fruit with tobacco and earthy notes adding heft. Lovely finish of more plum and some leather notes too. Excellent quality at a great price. 90 points.
Sparkling Pinnacle 2001. $35
This 100% pinot noir sparkler comes in a stylish bottle and is a very pale and elegant salmon colour. Fresh and muted nose with a bit of honeysuckle and plum skins. Good mousse, crisp acidity and very dry. There's 4g of residual sugar, which is similar to champagnes, and this is without the addition of a "dosage" of sweetened wine... that's ripe Okanagan fruit for you! There's a good acidity/fruit/sweetness balance and a good, if simple, finish. 88 points.
Sparkling Shiraz NV. $30
I think sparkling reds are just a novelty or a fun curiosity... and this one didn't change that view. Definitely some shiraz characteristics on the nose, with the dark red fruit and pepper, but "watered down". The palate had lively bubbles but just hints of shiraz flavours. Drinkable but quirky. 85 points.
For more information about availability of Sumac Ridge wines, call 250-494-0451 or write to info@sumacridge.com.
