Fellow wine writer Michael Pinkus and I got a tour of the impressive Mission Hill Estate - which is a large hilltop compound that looks like a cross between a California college and a Tyrolean monastery, gleaming, new and beautifully landscaped. Some vineyards are located at the property in Westbank, BC, across the lake from Kelowna, but Mission Hill sources its grapes from several locations in the Okanagan. Mission Hill was named Canada's Winery of the Year in 2008 by Wine Access magazine.
After the tour - which included a look at a stunning Chagall tapestry, a grassy amphitheatre and the impressive cellar with a small collection of ancient wine containers - we had a tasting. It was led by Jesse Harnden (pictured), who just moved from Niagara earlier this year. In Niagara, he worked at Stratus, among other places and now he's "loving it!" at Mission Hill.
One thing that Ontarians will notice about BC is that pretty much all wines are more expensive, probably tax-related. With the Okanagan wines, prices are higher still, probably due to the intense loyalty of BC's citizens to their local product - the laws of supply and demand at work. In any case, typical entry level prices for Okanagan wines are in the upper teens, and a surprising number of wineries consider the low 20s entry level. Bear this in mind when I say that Mission Hill's wines generally represent decent value.
Tasting notes follow below and prices are those at the winery store. For availability, check the LCBO website by keying or copying "Mission Hill" into the product search box at in the top left corner of this page.
The Mission Hill Flagship Wine
One of
2003 Oculus. $70
2003 was a particularly hot year in the Okanagan. Complex
2004 Oculus. $70
Complex Bordeaux style nose, but muted. Some cherry fruit, tobacco and a bit of iodine. Smooth enough on the palate, which is slightly woody. There's also more cherry and dark red berry fruit over tobacco notes. Very nice lingering finish. 89/90 points.
Another complex nose in the
The High End Wines of Mission Hill (older vintages)
2004 SLC (Small Lot Collection) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon. $32
Here's an Okanagan effort at the white Bordeaux blend - also known as "white meritage". The colour is fairly deep, yet bright yellow/gold. It's quite sharp on the nose with grapefruit notes and I detected an odd soapy note (the glass?). It delivers more sharpness on the palate, with high acidity and not too much fruit, but more grapefruit and a hint of tropical. The oak could have been more integrated on the palate, but it did come together well for a nice finish of lemon and vanilla. 87 points.
2005 SLC Chardonnay. $33
Nice yellow-gold colour and a very fresh, light and surprisingly fruity nose - lemon, melon and even a pineapple hint. Nice and smooth on the palate with a light oak touch adding some vanilla and smoke to the melon fruit. Acidity is quite crisp and the finish is fine and dry, with mineral notes. Kind of New World/Old World in style: very good. 89 points.
2003 SLC Syrah. $39
Deep ruby red colour and a rich bold nose with dark blackberry and meaty notes. There's a bit of pine and cedar on the palate, lots of blackberry fruit with some woody, minty notes under. Tannins still very high, but the acidity and fruit are there, leading to a rich complex finish with some plum fruit. 89/90 points.
2003 SLC Merlot. $39
Medium ruby colour and a rich nose of dark red berry and cherry fruit plus earthy notes, well integrated. Acidity and tannins are both high and there's less fruit than expected on the palate, in which I detected cherries, smoke and lemon zest (!) The nice finish is lengthy and well integrated with the dark fruit coming back, this time joined by a nice chocolate note. 89/90 points.
2004 SLC Merlot. $39
Medium to darker ruby colour and a richly dark nose of underbrush, herbal notes and a hint of mint. Just a little bit of black cherry fruit. Fairly full on the palate, tannins are both high and dry, acidity about medium. There's a lovely smoothness under the tannins, which bodes well for the future. Rather muted and Old World in the fruit dept. More earthy notes and the acidity freshens towards the end, when some dark plum fruit shows up and then lingers. 88 points.
Selected Current Releases from Mission Hill
Mission Hill Pinot Blanc 2006. $21.99
Pleasant peachy/apricot nose with floral notes: gently aromatic. There's a little bit of cardboard on the palate (oops!), but it's medium bodied, not overly fruity but pleasant and a nice finish with some peach coming back. 86 points
Five Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2007. $15.99
Fresh fruity nose of sweet lemon and apricot. Acidity is high and it's very zesty as a result. Curiously uncharacteristic of a sauv blanc, but very pleasant. Nice finish too. 86/87 points.
Five Vineyards Cabernet/Merlot 2005. $18.99
Jesse told us this is "the number one red in BC". Well, there's a decent nose of plummy red fruit. It's quite smooth on the palate with acidity fairly elevated and tannins smooth and a hint of oak. Nice fresh finish on this easy-drinking crowd pleaser. 87 points.
Mission Hill Merlot Reserve 2005. $24.99
Rich but muted nose with good ripe red fruit notes - cherry. Fuller bodied on the palate with nice ripe fruit and secondary notes of cedar. Acidity and tannins nicely balanced and a nice dark plum finish. 89 points.
Mission Hill Pinot Noir Reserve 2006. $29
Nice pale ruby colour and a rich and characteristic nose: cherries and earth. It's lighter bodied on the palate, and the cherries follow through, joined by tobacco and cigar box notes. Acidity is fairly high and tannins smooth. Decent finish too. 88 points.
Some of these wines are available at Vintages. Prices given are those at the winery - retail may vary. For more info contact Peter Wille at 250-542-6514 / pwille@missionhillwinery.com
