PEC (Prince Edward County) is almost exactly two hours east of Toronto. Somehow, even though there are dozens of counties in Ont., it is "The County", and it's also Ontario's newest wine area.
It's a great place to visit - imagine a giant Toronto Island with farms - and there are some good wines to try too. Considering its long and proud history stretching back to the United Empire Loyalists, who fled the rebelling 13 American colonies so they could remain "British", the County is surprisingly uncrowded. Indeed there are a number of abandoned farms and houses sprinkled around. Picton is a lively hub, with good restaurants, shopping and other diversions, but mostly it's pure country: get off the main highways (there are only three traversing several hundred square km) and you'll be pretty much the only vehicle on the straight and narrow country roads.
The Wines of Prince Edward County
One simple piece of advice would be "stick to the whites". Another would be "like high acidity". There's a signature note of minerality running through the wines as well - the limestone-rich soil is responsible for that. Norman Hardie says it reminds him of Burgundy, though Huff Estates' Frederic Picard, from Burgundy, is not so sure. Picard does agree about the minerality however, and also favours whites. There's some good rose too - Huff Estates and The Grange in particular. A number of the wineries contract to buy grapes from Niagara, either to add to the relatively small quantities available from the newer County vineyards, or just to get riper fruit to blend in with the sharper, leaner local product.
The Wineries
Huff Estates is developing into one of the flashier "destination" wineries - so much so that you can stay there in the extremely comfortable inn. It looks like a correctional facility from the outside (and is H-shaped, recalling a certain Australian soap opera from the 80s), but don't worry about vicious lesbians duking it out for Queen Bee status - everything's correct on the inside. Expect a flat screen TV, private patio, cool shower, vaulted ceilings, high-speed internet, a superb breakfast and friendly staff who really want you to enjoy your stay. Better quality (and pricier) whites are the hallmark of Huff Estates' winemaker Frederic Picard (pictured).
Waupoos Winery, at the far eastern end of the County, is in a beautiful setting and features the cheapest wines around, including the rarely seen red St. Laurent - how often do you get to try an Austrian wine with a French name? It's very light.
Another showpiece is Carmela Estates, which is a big wedding destination with great vineyard vistas and a reasonably impressive garden. Carmela Estates wines are also varied and inexpensive - but the pinot gris is definitely worth checking out and the chenin blanc was a very nice surprise too.
The Grange of Prince Edward County is the best place to go for a selection of good, well priced wines. The Trumpour's Mill series has just been picked up by the LCBO for the General List and is now available in small quantities throughout the province. The Grange is run by the no-nonsense Caroline Granger, pictured left: she had to interrupt the tasting to negotiate with a gentleman who wanted to sell her advertising for a local events program, and I got the distinct impression that if I were across the negotiating table from her, I'd concede more than I'd planned. The Granger family family has owned the property for several generations: "During the depression, this farm produced canned chicken for Eaton's in Toronto and kept a lot of people employed," Caroline explained. The land grant was issued in 1805 and one of the barns still standing was built in 1826. It houses the tasting room under a soaring ceiling and is completely lacking in urban chic: real country.
Norman Hardie's operation is small and stylish - making good use of the county rocks, both on the tasting bar and in the barrel storage cellar. The staff, including Norman, are extremely dedicated and really do want to do the best they possibly can: you can feel it. Pricey though, and Norman's high standards mean he's only willing to produce a few wines, and only if he can do them well. Click here for Norman Hardie's story.
Closson Chase is one of the more established County wineries, and it's really the epitome of relaxed rural cool (if there is such a thing). The tasting room is in a barn (of course) but it's a terrific combination of indoor/outdoor space, with cool art, chairs and sofas to lounge on, and a great garden with more art. The wines are at the pricier end (like, yikes!) but they do have Niagara star winemaker Deborah Paskus at the winery helm and if you buy the wines, you will like them.
Located just near Norman Hardie and Carmela Estates, Rosehall Run is worth a visit too. It's unprepossessing in a dammit-I-want-to-start-a-winery sort of way, but there is a nod to style in the form of an ancient rusted tractor artfully placed out front. Dan Sullivan has worked with a number of wineries in both Niagara and the County, and he staked his own claim in 2001 and has been adding equipment and facilities ever since.
Around the bend south of Hilier are By Chadsey's Cairns and Sandbanks Winery, both of which have a couple of interesting whites - and By Chadsey's Cairns offers the added bonus of an onsite cemetery.
Selected County Wines
Huff Estates Lighthall Chardonnay 2006
This premium chard from Huff will sadly be no more soon: Frederic Picard has diverted the grapes into the production of a sparkling wine (which should be good when it's released). Meanwhile, enjoy the slightly floral nose with very muted fruit notes. Acidity is very high, but the mouthfeel is creamy thanks to the extended time on the lees and the oak treatment. There are butter and lemon notes as well as some white fruit, and there's a nice buttery finish. 88/89 points.
Huff Estates Pinot Gris 2006
A rather minerally nose on this one. It's also fresh and a bit citrussy. The acidity is very high and there is a hint of the pinot gris "undertone". On the whole it's very light, refreshing and pleasant. Nice finish. 87 points.
Huff Estates Riesling Reserve 2006
Great muted riesling nose, gently aromatic and with a bit of petrol. Very sharp acidity, but nicely balanced by the fruit, faint though it is - look for some nice lemon. On the lingering finish of this austere, manly riesling is a nice hint of yellow plum. 88 points
Huff Estates Riesling Off Dry 2007
This one contains Niagara fruit and it shows: bigger nose with more aromatics and fruit. Very fruity on the palate, with tropical fruit, citrus and ripe melon. Feels sweeter than off dry and it's not as acidic. OK finish. 87 points.
Trumpour's Mill Riesling 2007
Fresh fruity nose with light apricot notes. Light and fresh on the palate, with more white fruit and some citrus, including lots and lots of lime on the finish. Very refreshing. 87/88 points.
Trumpour's Mill Pinot Gris 2006
Very rich golden colour - the 12 hours of extra skin contact time Caroline says it got during the maceration worked miracles. Super aromatic nose with slight late-harvest honeyed notes. Very fresh acidity on the palate, which has light white fruit. Nice lingering finish with some plum. Interesting. 87/88 points
Victoria Block Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006
Very nice light oak touch with notes of vanilla over light whte fruit. Zippy acidity and more light fruit on the palate, which also has honeysuckle and a nice blast of smoke. Medium to fuller bodied, this is a more serious chard. Nice smoky finish with a bit of lemon. 89 points.
Trumpour's Mill Rose 2007
The men involved in the operation poo-poohed rose as a wine "for girls", but it's a good thing Caroline went ahead anyway. Light, bright and almost alarmingly pink, there's bright, fresh strawberry on the nose of this 50/50 gamay/pinot noir rose. There's the usual County acidity, but the fresh yet ripe enough fruit stands up to it, with more strawberry on the palate. Caroline says that "by Christmas it'll be all cherries when the pinot takes over," but who could hang on to it that long? Not me. 88 points.
Trumpour’s Mill Gamay Noir 2006
Very light red colour and light strawberry fruit on the nose to match, with mild earthy notes under. “I wanted to make a peasant wine,” said Caroline about this one. To many that means a bit rough and rustic, but this is very fresh and fairly fruity – red berries/strawberries, but nice earthy/funky notes and a fresh finish. Simple but good – and it probably would work well with heavy foods. 87 points.
Very ripe white fruit, including yellow plums, pear and a bit of apple. Very full mouthfeel and ripe but balanced nicely by the high acidity – good finish as well, and it lingers. This is an unusual chard (sans chene = unoaked) and is very alluring. 88 points.
This is the barrel-aged and fermented headliner for Deborah Paskus and Closson Chase, and it delivers: the serious oak treatment has left evident yet restrained smoky and buttery notes on the nose and there’s a rich yellow-gold colour. Very full bodied on the palate, which also has some sweet lemon notes, crème brulee and a nice lingering finish with smoke and lemon. 90 points.
Sophisticated and reserved nose of rich light cherry fruit with a little earthiness under. Lots of acidity. Reserved and slightly under-ripe fruit, but pleasant nevertheless. There’s some rhubarb in the middle, but the nice finish brings it back to cherries. 87/88 points.
Oddly super fruity nose with with tropical fruit and lemon candy. The fruit follows through onto the palate, which also has a bit of vanilla and a nice finish. 87 points.
Lovely pale ruby colour, and light cherry fruit with a bit of secondary earthiness on the nose. Very lean on the palate, yet super smooth. Lovely finish of ripe cherries – none of the fruit is unripe, probably because less than 40% of the grapes harvested qualified for this blend – the overall feel is Old World and New World at the same time. 89 points.
Made with a combination of Niagara and County vines, this has a lovely muted nose with well integrated oak and lemon notes. Fresh and zesty on the palate. Very smooth, light fruit, with a nice finish of ripe lemon and vanilla. 88 points.
A little closed on the nose initially, but super fresh and lively on the palate. Light fresh cherry fruit on the smooth palate, which is lacking in secondary notes thus far. It's light and the cherry fruit is great and, while simple right now, it's a promising wine. Get some and lay it down. 89 points.
