OK, it's not.
Ontario isn't going over 30 degrees, there are no wines below $12, and the stores are too fancy. But what's striking about this release is the high quality/value ratio: lots of good wines, pretty good prices.
The feature of the release - Argentinean Malbecs - proved a bottle too far at the media tasting in May: the session was shut down just as I reached the collection. I did have a quick sip of the Catena Alta Malbec 2004, loved it and thought it tasted like over $20 for sure (the glass ceiling for Argentina & Chile). I was shocked to learn it's $64. This bodes well for its $19.95 sibling Catena Malbec. I very much liked their merlot, so it seems reasonable to assume that Finca Sophenia Reserve Malbec 2006 ($16.95) would be a good bet. I put a star beside the entry for Finca Flichman Gestos Malbec 2007 ($15.95) and wrote "spicy, smooth". I also put a big check mark and "Old World" beside the catalogue entry for Weinert Malbec 2003 ($18.95), but alas no further observations. I do recall that Beppi from the Globe spoke highly of it, which is a good sign.
Given that there are so many decent wines at good prices in this release, a new category ** VERY GOOD VALUE** will mark wines that could have been a "Top Value Pick" in a typical release, but got crowded out in a good release.
The Sparkling Wines
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs 2004. $26.95
Napa, California
Slight hint of cardboard on the nose, but this clears into more agreeable light toast notes. Not super bubbly in the glass and dry, full and fairly creamy on the palate. Very ripe fruit notes with some zesty lemon over it. Enough acidity to give it a nice finish, which has lingering brioche notes. 87/88 points.
Domaine Allimant-Laugner Cremant D'Alsace Brut. $21.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Alsace, France
Rich and honeyed nose with floral hints and brioche - very champagne-like. Fresh and zippy on the palate, dry but still with a hint of sweetntess. Almonds, apple, a bit of lemon in the middle and a nice finish. 88 points.
The Whites
Flat Rock Cellars The Rusty Shed Chardonnay. $24.95
VQA Niagara (Twenty Mile Bench)
Rather muted nose, but pleasant enough with a hint of smoke and vanilla. Nicely fresh and lively on the palate, which is medium bodied and has oaky notes, lemon and vanilla. OK finish. 87 points.
Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Chenin Blanc 2007. $14.95 ** VERY GOOD VALUE**
Clarksburg, California
Here's an interesting Cali take on chenin blanc - very rich and aromatic nose with peach and pineapple fruit as well. Smooth and somewhat round on the palate, but there's more fruit and enough acidity to keep it fresh. Dry and interesting. 87/88 points.
Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier 2007. $13.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Rapel Valley, Chile
Another less well known grape that's even more aromatic - here's a fine example with a super aromatic nose of ripe apricot and tropical fruit followed by a big burst of fruit on the palate - fresh and tropical, and maybe a hint of lichee too. Great low-priced intro to this interesting grape from the Northern Rhone that's grown steadily more popular and is appearing in more and more places (including Niagara). 88 points.
Tierra Del Fuego Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007. $13.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Maule Valley, Chile
Classic sauvignon blanc nose - very herbaceous and notes of citrus peel. Fresh and zesty on the palate with a good amount of fruit, including lemon and passion fruit. OK finish. 87 points.
Mahi Sauvignon Blanc 2007. $19.95
Marlborough, New Zealand
Classic NZ nose with lots of herbaceous grassiness and a lemon hint. Fresh and fruity on the palate, with grapefruit flavours and very crisp acidity. Nice lengthy finish. 88 points.
KWV Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2005. $14.95
Cape Coastal Region, South Africa
Big smoky oaky nose here. smooth and fairly full on the palate. There's lots of acidity, but somehow there's a bit of roundness too. If it's been reacidified, they've done a discreet job... Nice fruit under the oaky notes, including lemon and, unusually, lime. Vanilla is there too. OK finish on this fuller bodied New World chard. 87 points.
Katunar Zlahtina 2007. $16.95
Island of Krk, Croatia
Gotta love a place with no vowels in its name and gotta try this fresh and modern example of a very ancient grape. According to the Vintages notes, Pliny the Elder discussed the Zlahtina grape in his writings around 2,000 years ago... Pleasant and lightly aromatic nose with a bit of lemon coming through. Smooth and fresh on the palate, there's some prune plum and good body, leading to an odd finish of damson. Something quirky from Krk. 87 points.
Szigetvin Egri Cserszegi Fuszeres Chateau Kurdi Selection 2005. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Hungary
The name's a mouthful and so's the wine - and at a great price. Sweetly aromatic nose wth raisin and elderflower. Good acidity and fairly smooth on the palate, which has a hint of Angostura bitters. Interesting finish with plum notes. This one's even quirkier, but if you like the descriptors, you'll be glad you bought it. 87 points.
Proatello Catulliano Lugana 2006. $15.95 ** VERY GOOD VALUE**
Lugana, Italy
Muted but aromatic nose with slight off note that soon clears. Lemony fresh on the palate, which has a hint of vanilla. Fairly full bodied. Fresh finish with a hint of pink grapefruit and nougat. Interesting. 88 points.
Castello Montauto Vernaccia Di San Gimignano 2007. $15.95 ** VERY GOOD VALUE**
Villa Cerna, Italy
Fresh lemon and melon nose. Very crisp on the palate, which has surprisingly little fruit. Nice surprise on the finish though, which is farily rich, with peach and even watermelon. Fun for summer. 88 points.
Frescobaldi Castello Di Pomino 2007. $18.95
Tuscany, Italy
Fresh aromatic nose with nice white fruit. Big and fresh on the palate, and lots of fresh acidity, oaky notes of vanilla and even some smoke. Pleasant finish blending all the flavours together. 88 points.
Alvarinho Deu La Deu Vinho Verde 2006. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Moncao, Portugal
"Oh meu deus" will be your first reaction to the garish orange bottle with stunningly bad typography, but get over it. Northern Portugal shares a grape and climate with Spain's recently successful Rias Baixas region: albarino. On the one hand they're now milking it by putting the grape name (in Portuguese of course) on the label, but on the other hand, they're also doing a better job coaxing out the richness of alvarinho, which was only ever a component of vinho verde blend - generally a thin and sharp cheapie, ok on a hot day. But while the Deu La Deu folks could use the help of a Spanish marketing team for their packaging, they needn't worry about the wine: nicely aromatic nose with the typical rich floral and peach notes. Very fresh, zesty and dry on the palate, which is good. Not as full-bodied as some albarinos, but reasonably close. Great lemon/lemon zest flavours and a good lingering finish. 88/89 points.
Muralhas de Moncau Vinho Verde 2007. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Moncau, Portugal
Well here's the old-school blend and you know there's alvarinho in the mix: very aromatic nose with lots of fresh peach fruit. Very zippy acidity on the pleasant palate. There's a very slight undertone, but this is easily overpowered by the good acidity and pleasant fruit. Short finish, but OK for a hot day! 87 points.
The Reds
Beronia Tempranillo Elaboracion Especial 2005. $18.95 ** VERY GOOD VALUE**
This Riojan's taken the unusual step of putting the grape name on the label - a nod to the Anglo-American market no doubt. And a fine Rioja it is, with a lovely nose of ripe red cherry fruit and smoke. Smooth and rich on the palate with cherry notes as well as tobacco. Fuller than a lot of Riojas as well. Nice fresh acidity and a great finish in which the cherries start to feel chewy. 89 points.
Rodney Strong Merlot 2004. $24.95
Sonoma, California
Rodney delivers as usual with a bold oaky nose, rich dark red fruit and cigars. Smooth and rich on the palate like a good Cali merlot should be, and spicy notes too. Nicely reserved and a lovely finish with dark plum notes. 89 points.
Sebastiani Zinfandel 2006. $18.95
Sonoma, California
A rich bold nose typical of a big fruity zin: strawberries and other red berries. Very zin palate of soft ripe red fruit, but some tobacco notes and a nice bit of spice too. Easy drinking to be sure, but a little more complex than most zins. Nice finish too. 88 points.
Finca Sophenia Reserve Merlot 2006. $17.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Mendoza, Argentina
Great merlot nose with ripe red plum fruit and strawberry jam and good secondary notes of oak. Smooth on the palate, but grippy tannins at the same time, more ripe rich plum/berry fruit and nice secondary notes of tobacco. Nice finish too. Simple but effective. 88/89 points
Amadio Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $24.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
McLaren Vale, South Australia
Rich full nose with dark blackberry fruit and secondary notes including iodine. Very full and fruity on the palate, which has cherries, blackberries and woody notes. It's smooth even though both acidity and tannins are high - nicely balanced, nice finish. A lovely New World cab. 89/90 points.
Barossa Valley Estate Evenezer Cabernet Sauvignon 2003. $39.95
Barossa Valley, South Australia
Rich blackcurrent nose, relatively muted and with a hint of secondary development notes of earthiness. Super smooth and fresh on the palate, where the fruit and secondary notes are nicely integrated. The acidity is still high and there's a lovely finish of black plums. This one will continue to improve for a few years at least. 90 points.
Ceravolo Sangiovese 2006. $16.95 ** VERY GOOD VALUE **
Adelaide Plains, South Australia
Rich nose of red cherry fruit and some darker floral notes on this antipodean effort at one of Italy's premiere red grapes (think Chianti). Smooth, medium-bodied and fresh on the palate - acidity is high and tannins medium, so quite easy drinking. Good finish too. 89 points.
Chateau Renella Basket Pressed Shiraz 2005 $34.95
McLaren Vale, South Australia
They're wearing the TLC they give this wine on their sleeve: basket pressing is a gentle, old fashioned way to get the juice out of the grapes, which they say they hand pick and sort as well. The effort's worth it: alluring nose of dark berry fruit. Not too fruity on the palate, but nice and smooth, with plum, tobacco and a bit of spice. Nice. Good finish too. 89/90 points.
De Bortoli DB Selection Petite Sirah 2006. $14.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Southeastern Australia
Southeastern Australia is by far the world's largest appellation and the grapes could easily come from growers hundreds of kilometres apart. Usually, this is not a good sign, but the De Bortolis have done a great job at a great price. Rich full nose of ripe dark fruit - blackberries, black cherry and secondary notes of wood and tobacco. Smooth and rich on the palate, acidity is medium and there's a nice finish of dark plums. 88 points.
Devil's Lair Red 2003. $49.95
Margaret River, Western Australia
Vintages says this is produced by the same people who make Fosters, the once-fashionable Aussie suds. The price is a shock, but the quality is certainly there in this full Bordeaux blend red: there's cab sauv, cab franc and merlot, but with a New World spin. Rich full nose showing alluring secondary notes as it edges into its 6th year and a good amount of ripe dark red fruit. Super smooth and fruity on the palate with a nice mixture of dark fruit flavours, including blackberry and plum. Good balance of tannins and acidity and a terrific lingering finish with dark plum and even some chocolate. 89/90 points.
Jim Barry The Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $24.95
Clare Valley/Coonawarra, South Australia
Big bold nose of dark red berry fruit and lots of secondary notes including herbal notes, chocolate and tobacco. Good amount of blackberry fruit on the palate and a lingering finish that edges into black plum. 88 points
Taltarni Shiraz 2003 $24.95
Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia
Rich bold nose with ripe dark plum fruit and other dark berries. Tobacco and cigar box secondary notes. Smooth and rich on the palate, which has dark plums and pepper. The tannins still need to calm down a bit and the acidity is high too - so this one will last and will improve. Nice finish. 89 points.
Chateau Pech-Latt Corbieres 2006. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE **
Corbieres, France
Rich and full wine from sunny southwestern France. Rich fruity nose of dark red fruit with peaty, earthy undertones. Fresh and zesty on the palate, which is not overly fruity. Tannins and acidity are both high, but in nice balance. Good finish of plums and blackberries, and it lingers too. 88 points
Chateau Le Raz Cuvee Grand Chene 2005. $18.95
Bergerac, France
Here's a nice little Bordeaux style red from neighbouring Bergerac. This merlot/cab sauv blend is rich, full and fruity on the nose and has a little bit of secondary cigar box. Super dry on the palate, which is, typically, not overly fruity. Acidity and tannins are both high and the cigar box comes through some more. OK finish. 88 points.
