Telmo Rodriguez @ Lifford Grand Tasting, May 7
Telmo Rodriguez's father was a winemaker, so it's in the blood. Rodriguez is a big proponent of organic/biodynamic techniques, as well as favouring Spanish grapes and traditional winemaking techniques. But, most interestingly, he manages to stamp his own style - delicate, lightly fruity and "feminine" - on the Spanish standard tempranillo.
Basa 2007. $16.50
Rueda, Spain
Rueda is Spain's answer to sauvignon blanc: fresh, zesty, lemony and dry but fruity. Rueda wines are made mostly of native grapes verdejo and viura, but some blends actually include sauvignon blanc, a small amount of which is grown in the region. Rueda is in the north-west region of Castilla y Leon, not far from Ribero del Duero.
Export-minded Telmo has included - and touts - the sauvignon blanc in his Rueda white. Rich and bold nose with grassy and herbaceous notes. Rich, smooth and reasonably fruity on the palate - there's lots of tropical fruit, including passion fruit and papaya, as well as a nice hint of nutty spice. The finish is rather muted, but offers some more tropical fruit. 88 points.
Vina 105. $17.99
Cigales, Spain
Just west of Ribero del Duero, Cigales is a small region that also specializes in the Spanish mainstay, tempranillo. In Cigales, it is known as tinta del pais. Well this certainly offered some different fruit characteristics: Big nose of red fruit including strawberry and raspberry rather than the expected cherries. Earthiness is there though, with darker notes including mushroom. Simple and fresh, the 105 has good acidity and mid palate full of red berry fruit. Nice finish with just a hint of earth. 87/88
Dehesa Gago 2006. $19.00
Toro, Spain
West of Rueda, tempranillo is also the grape of choice in Toro, where it's called tinto de toro. But Telmo claims it is in fact different from the tempranillo in, say, Rioja. This is a 100% tempranillo and it's got a big nose that's both fruity and earthy, with notes of cherry cough candy: feels like a set-up for a seriously big wine, then it's lighter and fresher than expected on the palate. Nice fresh cherry notes with a bit of the chewiness often found in tempranillo. Nice lingering finish too, with more chewy cherries. 88 points.
LZ 2006. $17.99
Rioja, Spain
Here's a great example from Telmo's operations in the most famous Spanish region. In this case, Telmo made the wine by mimicking the style of the twenties and thirties, when they fermented in concrete(!) Interesting results here, very much a Telmo Rodriguez wine. Gently fruity nose - light, bright and fresh. Very delicate on the palate - like a cross between a Beaujolais and a Burgundy. Lovely smooth cherry fruit on the palate, with faint notes of earthiness. Nice gentle finish with a bit of herbal creeping in. I noted it as very "feminine" - a trait Telmo likes in his wines. Great value/quality ratio. 89 points
Lanzaga 2005. $33.50
Rioja, Spain
This tempranillo/garnacha (grenache) blend is a lighter colour and has a richer, earthier nose with black cherries and a bit of spice. Rich, fresh and smooth on the palate, which has cherries that get chewy towards the finish, which has more spice, including allspice. Great quality, darker and richer here. 90 points.
Altos de Lanzaga 2004. $?
Rioja, Spain
Still lighter ruby colour on this one, but very bold and rich on the nose, which has black cherries, earth and meaty notes. Very nicely balanced acidity and tannins on the palate, which is medium bodied with more cherry and earth, and a lovely delicate note of perfume emerges towards the lingering finish, which is light and nicely complex. 90/91 points.
Matallama $?
Ribero del Duero, Spain
Another very light coloured one, but this is richer and more "masculine" on the nose, with earth, leather and black cherry fruit. Fuller bodied on the palate, acidity and tannins are both high, but nicely balanced. Smooth cherry over rich earthy and leathery notes on the palate, which eases into the lingering finish of cherries and a hint of herbs. 92 points.
G. $75
Rioja, Spain
Darker ruby colour. Rich nose of slightly stewed dark red fruit, including cherries. Tobacco/cigar box, smoky notes and a bit of vanilla are present too. Fuller bodied on the palate, with the rich mixture of cherries and secondary notes following through from the nose. Telmo's signature perfumed note comes up in the lovely, lingering finish. 92 points.
Telmo prepares a barrel sample for tasting at the Miralobueno winery in Rioja, July 2005.
