Austrian Wines @ Rosehill Venue Lounge, April 15
The annual Austrian Trade Wine Fair rolled into town and of course had more than gruner veltliner on offer, but this is a focused report. The event was big and well attended, and a decent cross section of Austrian wines were available.
Austria is a cool climate region, with most of the wines produced in the less mountainous east of the country - actually pretty much along the borders with Slovakia, Hungary and Slovenia. There are lighter bodied reds like Blaufränkisch (Lemberger in Germany) and Zwiegelt, which can be nice if, well, which can be nice... but Austria does best with whites. Look for decent rieslings and, most importantly as it's the country's signature varietal, gruner veltliner.
Gruner Veltliner
It doesn't trip off the English tongue and sounds a bit like a diagnosis for a foot condition, but gruner veltliner is a terrific, zesty white. Usually very well priced, it's Vienna's white wine of choice. Gruner characteristics include the higher acidity and lower alcohol you'd expect from a cool climate, and typical fruit expressions include apple, honeydew melon, yellow plum and lemon. There are also often spicy and floral notes, and the overall feel is light and fresh.
It's a great summer/patio/sipping wine and would make a logical change from sauvignon blanc if you're looking for something similarly fresh and sharp, but, you know, different. Most of these are not available on a retail basis, but I include the notes to give a flavour of the styles of gruner velt. Excepting the first selection, prices, where available, are either estimates or the consigment price for restaurants when purchased by the case.
Sal'Mon Groovy Gruner Veltliner 2007. $12.95 (Vintages Release, May 24)
Krems
Well it's a clumsy attempt to join the fading "critter wine" trend ("I love salmon fish! They're so cute!"), and don't know what's up with the "groovy" as "gruner velt" is the abbreviation of choice here... Anyway, this wine would actually go well with salmon, among other fish. Great characteristic nose with aromatic/floral notes and fresh citrus. The acidity is there, but it stays smooth on the palate, which has some yellow plum fruit. Dry, crisp and an OK finish. A good intro to Gruner Veltliner at a great price. 87 points.
High End Gruners
Nicolaihof Gruner Veltliner 2005. $28.95
Wachau
Here's the high end - a richer and darker nose, though the spice and aromatics are there. Light and fresh on the palate though, with great acidity, nice lemon fruit and a terrific lingering finish. 90 points.
Nicolaihof Gruner Veltliner 2006. $69.95
Wachau
Muted nose, but rich with white fruit. Smooth and fresh on the palate with great acidity, good structure and a lively finish with a bit of toast on the finish, which lingers. 90 points.
Weingut Angerer Kurt Gruner Veltliner 2007.
Kamptal
Beautiful fresh nose with spicy notes as well as floral. Rich on the palate with good white fruit and some nice complexity under, good acidity keeping things fresh. Nice finish. 88 points
Weingut Durnberg Gruner Veltliner 2007. $12-14 (no Ont. representation yet: advice to agents - sign them up!)
Weinviertel
Their entry level gruner is everything it should be: fresh, simple and fun. Lots of acidity, clean fresh taste, a muted but decent amount of fruit and a nice finish. A great bet for restaurants to buy on consigment: triple the price of this one no problem. 87 points.
Weingut Durnberg Gruner Veltliner 2007. $14-15
Weinviertel
Fresh and lively nose with lemon and white fruit. Rich and fruity on the palate with more lemon notes over a solid amount of white fruit. Nice finish. 88 points
Winzer Krems Sandgrube 13 Gruner Veltliner 2007. $11
Niederosterreich
Fresh light nose with white fruit and floral notes. Good acidity. This one's a little low key all round, but a good introduction to the grape. OK finish. 86 points
Winzer Krems Sandgrube 13 Edition Chremisa Gruner Veltliner 2007. $20
Niederosterreich
Lovely muted nose with spicy and mineral notes. Nice body with a richer, softer palate. It's still fresh though, with some lemon notes and yellow plum. Nice finish. 89 points.
Weingut Loimer Gruner Veltliner 2007. $28
Kamptal
The expected fresh and fruity nose with floral notes on this pricier example of the grape. Rich and fruity on the palate - definitely more full bodied than most, which perhaps explains the price. The heavier fruit is balance by creat acidity and there's a nice finish with a hint of spiciness. 88 points.
Weingut Polsterer Gruner Veltliner 2007. $16.50
Wagram
Fresh and spicy nose with white fruit and floral notes as well. Fresh and lively on the palate, though a bit round. A good match with mild cheese. OK finish. 87 points
Weingut Allram Range - $22 to 25.
Alte Reben Strasser Hasel Klassik Gruner Veltliner 2007. Nice nose of rich white fruit, fresh and zesty on the palate. Very light bodied and the alcohol is a bit evident. OK finish. 87 points.
Strasser Gaisberg Klassik Gruner Veltliner 2007. Very fresh nose with apple, plum and spice. Full on the palate, which has more floral and spice. A bit simple, but very nice. OK finish. 88 points.
Strasser Gaisberg Klassik Gruner Veltliner 2006. Lightly aromatic nose with muted floral notes. Fairly full on the palate with muted white fruit, lemon notes and good acidity. The alcohol again is a bit evident, but nice finish. 88 points.
Strasser Gaisberg Klassik Gruner Veltliner 2005. Smoother, richer nose with more muted floral aromas. Acidity very fresh still and more floral notes and a bit of citrus on the palate. OK finish. 88 points.
Weingut Zahel Gruner Veltliner 2006. $19.40
Wien
A capital example from the capital. Bolder nose with lots of white fruit and a bit of spice. Smooth and rich on the palate, but the fresh acidity is there. Apple fruit and nice lemon notes too. Good finish. 89 points.
Weingut Leth Gruner Veltliner Klassik 2007.
Wagram
Very muted nose of light white fruit. There's a bit of an undertone on the palate, but good acidity and some spiciness. OK finish. 87 points.
Weingut Leth Gruner Veltliner Brunnthal Reserve 2007
Wagram
Very muted nose on this one, made with grapes from 35-40 year old vines and harvested later than usual. It's richer on the palate, and though the alcohol is 13.5%, it's not obvious. There is some white fruit and lemon too. OK finish. 87 points.
Weingut Manfred Felsner Gruner Veltliner Moosburgerin 2007. $19
Neiderosterreich
Light, fruity nose with honeydew melon and apple. Fresh, smooth, light. Good acidity, OK finish. 87 points
Weingut Manfred Felsner Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben 2007. $25
Neiderosterreich
Manfred's step up is more muted on the nose and richer on the palate. There's nice fresh green apple fruit on the palate, good acidity and a nicer finish. 88 points.
