"Organic" is a loaded term whether you see it in the produce aisle or on the wine rack. Rules governing what constitutes organic vary and there always seem to be exceptions. However a general rule of thumb is that the growers and/or producers try to eliminate or minimize chemical fertilizers, pesticides and, in the case of wine, additives.
The US tends to fuss over sulphites and demands that winemakers disclose their presence on wine bottle labels. However, sulfites are both naturally occurring and essential to preserving the wine. So generally speaking, organic wines will have fewer sulfites than other wines, and it's certainly true that some sloppier producers add more sulfites than is strictly necessary.
The other organic consideration with wine is in the vineyard, and organic producers practice more "sustainable" agriculture - no pesticides or chemical fertilizers, efficient use of water and energy, etc.
So it's a good idea to support organic wine. My brows start to furrow if the fact that a wine is organic is trumpeted too loudly: producers still can and should make great wine and should not rely on sympathy/solidarity to sell their product.
That said, the majority of my picks this week are not organic. Tant pis!
Sparkling Wine
J. Lassalle Champage Brut Preference. $42.95
This majority-pinot champagne has a moderate nose of smooth and integrated red fruit. Not too fruity on the palate, but super smooth, with rich citrus, fresh bread and a hint of honey. Great finish with a slightly sweet edge, but in a nice way. 89 points.
The Whites
Creekside Estate Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2006. $18.95
Very oaky nose with spicy notes - none of the grassy, herbaceous notes you'd expect. Super dry and lemony on the palate, and nice and smooth from the oak. Very good finish of lime. They should've called it "fume blanc" to make the oakiness clear, but very nice if you like wood. 88 points.
Malivoire Pinot Gris 2006. $19.00
A relatively rare Niagara example of a white that continues to grow in popularity. Light nose on this with a worrying cardboard note. This quickly disappears on the palate though, which is also light, fresh and only moderately fruity. Crisp acidity and a good finish. Refreshing. 88 points.
Grove Mill Pinot Gris 2007. $16.95
Well here's the same grape from a warmer climate: New Zealand. Quite aromatic nose with some tropical fruit notes. Very rich and full on the palate with lots of fruit and some spicy notes as well. Like a fuller bodied, more flavourful Alsatian. 88 points.
Tommasi Pinot Grigio Le Rosse 2007. $17.95
This mid-range producer does very drinkable valpolicella at a good price - he's not bad with the pinot grigio either. Very aromatic nose with floral and honey notes. Medium bodied on the palate, which is rather round. Nice fruit flavours, including lemons and orange. Simple and pleasant. 87 points
Klein Zalze Chenin Blanc Barrel Fermented 2006. $13.95 ** BEST VALUE**
Certainly one good thing about chenin blanc being underrated is that it's always cheap. This South African has a moderately fruity nose with light oaky notes evident. Very smooth and rich on the palate, but the oaky notes are delicate enough not to overpower the peach fruit. The alcohol level is high at 15%, but it's only a little bit noticeable on this otherwise great quality effort. 88 points.
Laurenz V. Friendly Gruner Veltliner 2006. $17.95
Vienna's favourite white doesn't have the most user-friendly name, but gruner veltliner is an excellent choice for summer (so buy some and wait a couple of months I guess...). Very lively nose with sweet citrus notes. Very zingy and fresh on the palate - typical of the grape - and fruit notes of citrus and unripe apple. Nice finish. 88 points.
J.M Solher Riesling Heissenberg 2005. $18.95 [Artisan] ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Great riesling nose with both lemon and petrol. This very German-sounding product is actually from Alsace - and nicer and drier for it. Smooth and fairly light on the palate, there's lots more lemon. Acidity is good and the overall feel is dry. Lovely. 88 points.
Chateau La Fleur Jonquet Blanc 2005. $20.95
Here's a good example of a white Bordeaux. From AC Graves, this 50/50 semillon/sauvignon blanc blend has a bold nose with dark herbaceous notes. Fresh and dry on the palate, this is nevertheless richer and darker than a sauvignon blanc. Very dry, moderately fruity, good lingering finish with lots of citrus. A great bet if you want to take your sauvignon blanc in a new direction. 88 points.
Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuisse 2006. $35.95
This very reliable producer delivers as usual with this solid white Burgundy. Lovely gently oaked nose. Super smooth and minerally on the palate, which is very dry. Excellent finish of butterscotch and lemon. 92 points.
Roux Pere & Fils Saint-Aubin La Pucelle 2006. $29.95
Another nice white Burgundy, but this one's more wooded. Super smoky, oaky nose. Very rich, yet smooth and dry on the palate with near perfect acidity - it's round and fresh at the same time. Lemon peel, hint of butterscotch, nice finish. 90 points.
L. Tramier & Fils Macon-Villages 2006. $17.95
Surprisingly fruity nose which has some applesauce notes. Very smooth and nicely fruity on the palate, and the crisp acidity keeps it fresh. Nice balance. OK finish (a bit cloying) 87 points.
Jean-Max Roger Sancerre Cuvee les Caillottes 2006. $23.95 [Artisan] ** TOP VALUE PICK**
The vintages notes are right when they suggest that this is "classic Loire Sauvignon Blanc". Very obvious sauvignon blanc nose of grass and general herbaceousness. Clean, fresh and dry on the palate - lemons and unripe white fruit. Great smooth lingering finish. 89 points.
Planalto Douro Reserva Branca 2006. $13.95
Portugal delivers a decent quality white at a great price. Moderately aromatic nose with some citrus notes. The acidity's not bad, but it still feels round on the palate, which has some nice lemon. OK finish. 87 points.
Marques de Caceres Barrel Fermented White 2006. $15.95
This big mass-market producer in Rioja offers a not-bad simple white. It's a bit bland, but the oaky notes are nice over the white fruit. Interesting play of flavours, and there's some citrus on the finish. Nice. 87 points.
The Reds
Murphy-Goode Merlot 2003. $28.95
Less fruity than expected nose on this Californian, but there is some dark red fruit. Big and fruity on the palate though, with nice cherry fruit and grippy tannins - it's still very youthful. There's a hint of sweetness, but that could just be the extreme fruitiness. Nice finish with some oak notes kicking in. Will age for several more years. 89 points.
Opus One 2004. $289.95
The big daddy of California reds - Opus One is a joint venture between Robert Modavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. If you can afford it, this meritage blend will give you a complex nose heavy on the darker secondary notes. It's rich, smooth and fruity on the palate, which has nice vanilla and cedar notes from the oak. It really is super smooth, and there's a good lingering finish of red fruit and some more secondary notes. 92 points.
Kluge Estate Vineyards Albemarle Simply Red 2004. $23.95 [Artisan] ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Get over the lame 80s pop band reference and the Blue Mountains of western Virginia provenance: this ain't no moonshine. This meritage blend is a very pleasant surprise - even a bargain at the price. Rich yet subdued fruit with nice secondary notes of spice and a hint of iodine. Very smooth on the palate and rather Old World in style. Thomas Jefferson would be proud. 90 points.
Budini Malbec 2005. $12.95 [Organic] ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Love the typography and love the price even more. Overlook the slighly sour nose and get to the decent red fruit on the palate. It's fairly smooth, simple and fruity on the palate and, frankly, not very characteristic of a malbec, but very drinkable and with an OK finish. 86/87 points.
Concha Y Toro Winemaker's Lot 152 Carmenere 2005. $18.95
Gimmicky "tag" label with handwriting on it aside, there's a rich bold nose of dark red fruit. Rich and fairly smooth on the palate, this is indeed the winemaker's best I'd bet: he's tamed the carmenere roughness rather well. Nice vanilla notes under the fruit, nice smooth finish. 88 points.
Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. $14.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
This smooth and fruity Chilean initially seems a straighforward easy-drinking cheapie, but there are some nice secondary notes under that lift it up. 88 points.
Katnook Estate Merlot 2005. $29.95
Here's Australia at its best: big bold and fruity. Rich nose of dark red fruit that follows through on the palate, where cedar and oaky notes add complexity. Tannins are muted so it's smooth. Terrific. 90 points.
Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2003. $16.95 ** BEST VALUE**
Staying in the southern hemisphere, big producers KWV step up for South Africa with this fine shiraz that tastes like it cost a lot more. Rich dark nose with some red fruit and lots of secondary notes, including some mushroom. The "bandaid" of South Africa is present (rubbery notes), but very muted and, unless you're hypersensitive, not a worry because there's so much fruit. Very smooth and rich on the palate and nice cherry notes on the finish, which lingers. 90 points
Chateau Chavrignac 2005. $15.95 [Organic]
Here's a nice Bordeaux at a nice price - and it's organic too. Decent nose of dark red fruit with some secondary notes including some iodine. Smooth and dry on the palate, but the acidity and tannin levels are high, so this really calls out for food. Steak frites perhaps? 88 points.
Domaine Laurent Mabileau Bourgueil 2006. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Here's a French cab franc - compare with our local product. The nose is fresh and fruity with red berry notes. The palate is fuller than expected and the red fruit takes a darker turn. It's a fairly simple wine with not a lot of secondary notes, but very pleasant and easy drinking. OK finish. 87 points.
Chateau Roubia 2005. $12.95 [Organic] ** GOOD VALUE**
Dirt cheap and organic! This Minervois from France's "value region" Languedoc-Rousillon is a blend of the region's grapes, mainly grenache, syrah and carignan. Fresh nose of dark red fruit with nice undertone of earthiness. Smoother and lighter on the palate than expected, but a nice finish of muted fruit. 87 points.
Domaine des Senechaux Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005. $35.95
If you want to try grenache and syrah at a higher level, nowhere does it better than Chateuneuf-du-Pape. This one delivers a rich, bold and alluring nose of dark red fruit and nice secondary notes, including a bit of pepper. Smooth and rich on the palate, this is a luxurious wine and the finish is great. Good now, will continue to improve. 92 points.
Coppi Primitivo Peucetico 2001. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Here's a decent cheapie from Italy: it's a fun, fruity wine with a decent nose. Lots of rich red fruit on the palate, which also has some earthy secondary notes from the aging. Great price for a six year old wine! 88 points.
Tommasi Merlot Le Prunee 2005. $17.95
Big valpolicella producers Tommasi try their hand at merlot - and it works. Nice nose of red fruit and some secondary development including iodine. Medium to full bodied, there's good acidity, nice red berry fruit and a decent finish. A good MOR red. 88 points.
Muruve Crianza 2003. $15.95
The age is now starting to kick in on this tempranillo from the Toro. Rich nose of cherries and berries with some darker undertones. Smooth and rich on the palate, which has very obvious oak notes, including cedar. Tannins and acidity are both still high, so this one could age for several more years. Nice finish. 88 points.
