They're calling it "Match Points" this week, but really it should be Mix & Match - a malbec from Italy, a great cab from Spain, a great Bordeaux from BC and a white from legendary Rhone red producer Chateau de Beaucastel.
The Sparkling Wines
Georges Gardet Cuvee Saint Flavy Champage Brut. $39.95 ** BEST VALUE**
Lovely nose with a slight honeyed note and hints of bread. Super dry but also fairly full bodied on the palate. The fruit level is moderate and there’s a bit of vanilla. Great finish with more fruit and Peak Freans biscuit notes. 90 points.
Philippe Gonet Blanc de Blancs Champagne Brut. $47.95
Fresh and bready nose with slight oxidative notes. Very dry and crisp on the palate with a definite feel of aged/vintage champagne – and it turns out this although this doesn’t qualify as a vintage champagne, it’s a mix of two vintages: 1997 and 1998. On the palate there are nutty notes and it’s not fruity, though there is some lemon peel. Lovely lingering finish of nuts and lemon drops. A terrific non-vintage vintage champers. 90 points.
Graham Beck Brut Rose 2005. $21.95
Gotta love that the winemaker at Graham Beck is known as Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira. According to the Vintages notes, he’s considered South Africa’s master of bubbly. Well, this effort’s OK: lovely super pale orange colour, but a slightly off nose – there’s some nice bread, but that S.A. bandaid note is present. Some orange peel on the palate, nice bubbles, OK finish. 87 points.
The Whites
Angels Gate Riesling 2006. $13.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Great peachy nose on this Niagara riesling from a reliable producer. Light and fresh on the palate, with good acidity, nice citrus notes and hints of other fruit. OK finish. 88 points.
Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2006. $16.95
Super aromatic – like a riesling on steroids. Fairly full bodied. Lots of citrus and the fact that it’s not as overpowering as the aromatic nose suggests is a nice surprise. Though more restrained, there’s still more and different fruity than you’d get with a regular chard: try red grapefruit. Good finish. 88 points.
Trumpour’s Mill Victoria Block Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006. $24.95
Rich and fragrant nose on this solid effort from our newest wine region, Prince Edward County. Rich and fragrant nose with butterscotch, vanilla and some apple too. The woodiness is even more obvious on the palate, with vanilla, butter and smoky notes. Acidity is very high (thanks Ont!) and there’s some lemon too. OK finish, if a bit short. 88 points.
Wine by Joe Pinot Gris 2006. $17.95
The “regular guy” from Oregon is back with a white this time. Once again, get over the goofy, cartoonish label and branding and enjoy the very pleasant fresh nose with nice pear notes. A little round on the palate, but nicely full bodied as a result. Good citrus finish that lingers – a great chardonnay alternative at a decent price. 88 points.
Equus Sauvignon Blanc 2007. $11.95 ** TOP VALUE PICK**
Chile’s Maipo Valley cranks out a very low priced winner! Pungent sauv blanc nose that’s very herbaceous and even a bit spicy. Quite rich on the palate, which hits the other side of the sauv blanc spectrum and delivers tropical fruit – including passion fruit. Some grapefruit too. Zippy acidity (must be the cold nights in the Maipo). Grab this for the best of both sauv blanc worlds at an unbeatable price. 88 points.
Santa Rita Medalla Real Chardonnay 2006. $18.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Zesty and fruity nose with smoke and tropical fruit. Great sweet lemon on the palate, which has some nice butterscotch too. Acidity’s only medium, but there’s just enough to stop it from being round and there’s a very deft use of oak. 90 points.
Valdivieso Chardonnay 2006. $11.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Another great bargain from Chile: there’s a nice nose with a hint of vanilla over apple from this “mostly unoaked” chard. It’s very simple on the palate and a bit rounder than expected, but there’s some nice citrus notes and an OK finish. Can’t argue with the price. 87 points.
Greg Norman Estates Chardonnay 2005. $19.95
Fresh, light and a bit spicy. Smooth and somewhat round on the palate, but there are nice lemon and vanilla notes and a there’s a good lingering finish on this Australian. 88 points.
Coopers Creek Unoaked Chardonnay 2006. $16.95
Robust nose with apple notes. Mouth-filling and fruity, with more apple on the palate. It’s not complex, but it’s a nice example of just how fruity a chard can be. Very New World, but then it is from NZ. 88 points.
Domaine Servin Chablis 2006. $19.95
Back in the Old World, here’s great example of one of Burgundy’s classic chards. Chablis are generally austere and this one fits that bill. The vintages notes imply that this one is unoaked, but I’m not so sure. Rich nose of apple and lemon. Super dry and acidic on the palate, with the acidity rising towards the end and leaving a lingering finish of delicate vanilla (which is surprising if in fact there was no oak used) 90 points.
Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fume 2006. $24.95
Very muted nose with hints of lime and stone, as well as a bit of grass. Super smooth and elegant on the palate. There’s a bit of vanilla as well as crisp acidity and a great lingering finish on this very proper French take on sauvignon blanc. 90 points.
Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel Blanc 2006. $32.95
Over to the Rhone, where the white grapes include viognier, marsanne, bouroulenc and clairette, and here’s a terrific example. Smooth, elegant and fresh nose with floral notes. Very elegant on the palate. Fairly full bodied and there are muted orange notes. Great lingering finish of lemon. 89 points.
Domaine de L’Idylle L’Altesse 2006. $16.95
This pleasant oddball is from the Savoie region, in the French Alps – Albertville hosted the Winter Olympics in 1992, the last time winter and summer games were the same year. Anyway, expect a very interesting aromatic nose of white flowers and honey. Fairly smooth and fruity on the palate. Acidity is really only medium and there’s a fairly full bodied feel. Some vanilla on the palate too, and a nice lingering finish. Rather viognier-like. 88 points.
Albino Armani Pinot Grigio 2006. $16.95
I don’t know if designer Georgio had anything to do with this, but it’s more fresh and frisky than cool and elegant. Great fresh nose and the palate is somehow both smooth and crisply acidic. No off notes or undertones and a great finish. Stylish in its own way. 88 points.
Vignalta Pinot Bianco 2005. $17.95
Pinot blanc isn’t too common in France, but apparently they’ve been growing it in the Veneto region “for about three centuries” according to www.vignalta.it. Fresh but muted nose, smooth and clean on the palate with both citrus notes and a hint of vanilla. Nice finish. 88 points.
The Reds
Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2004. $39.95
Definitely one of Canada’s best wines, Osoyoos Larose delivers again. Read about my taste challenge of the end of January to see how it stacked up against its Bordeaux parent (which costs 50% more…). Lots of rich red fruit on the nose. As it’s relatively youthful for an age-able wine, both acidity and tannin levels are still high. There’s a good amount of dark red fruit on the palate and some spicy and even minty notes. Very dry, good finish. But really not ready yet – I’d lay it down for at least two more years (disclosure: I’ve got a case in my wine locker at the Fine Wine Reserve – I believe in this wine!) 89 points.
J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot 2005. $18.95 **TOP VALUE PICK**
A great Californian, ready now. Rich nose of dark red fruit and nice secondary tobacco notes. Very New World in its fruitiness. Soft tannins join the soft juicy ripeness of the red fruit on the palate, but it manages to have character too. Nice smoky finish with red berry fruit. 89 points.
Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. $13.95
Head south both geographically and price-wise for this decent enough effort from Mendoza. There’s a slightly off nose, but very decent juicy red fruit on the palate. It’s simple, but it’s OK, esp. at the price. 86 points.
Viu Manent Reserva Malbec 2006. $13.95 **TOP VALUE PICK**
Across the Andes, Chile steals Argentina’s malbec thunder with this very impressive version. Rich nose of muted dark red fruit. There’s definitely a rustic quality, but hey, it’s fourteen bucks. Lots of nice red fruit on the mouth-filling palate with plum on the good finish. Great value. 88 points.
Main Divide Pinot Noir 2006. $21.95
The Donaldson Family is doing it right for NZ’s next big thing (they’re all about pinot now). Nice rich nose of cherry and earthy notes. Fresh on the palate with good cherry fruit and more earthy notes. Some spice too, and fresh acidity. Good finish on this very good New World pinot. 88 points.
Chateau Griviere 2000. $25.95
This Cru Bourgeois – a sort of mid-range category in Bordeaux – represents pretty good value. Rich nose with dark red fruit and a chocolate note. Very dry but fresh as well. Not too fruity on the palate and there are nice secondary notes from the aging. There’s a bit of greenness, but this is pleasant, and also a hint of tobacco. Nice finish. 88 points.
Chateau St. Georges 2003. $35.95
This St. Emilion delivers a rich and complex nose of dark red fruit and secondary notes. Tannins are evident, but it’s smooth and elegant on the palate. Great acidity – and this is from scorching 03! – keeps it fresh and there’s solid St. Emilion fruitiness as well as some tobacco notes. Super. 90 points.
Christian Moueix Pomerol 2005. $29.95
The UK’s Decanter magazine declared Monsieur Moueix Man of the Year, and with good reason: his wines are consistently good. This one offers a rich nose with a good amount of red fruit and some anise. Powdery tannins, very dry, and elegant, with nice red fruit. A terrific Bordeaux with good fruit. 89 points.
Chateau L’Hospitalet La Reserve Rouge 2005. $18.95
Rich aromas of blackberry and dark red fruit from this Languedoc syrah, Grenache and mourvedre blend. Good body and rich fruit on the palate. It’s smooth yet fresh and has a nice lingering finish. 88 points.
Domaine de Berlande Merlot 2006. $12.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Great bargain here in this Vin de Pays d’Oc. Pleasant and welcoming nose of muted red fruit. Smooth and simple on the palate, but lots of red fruit. Decent tannins give it heft and a more character than you’d expect at this price. OK finish. Great value. 87 points.
Mas de la Devieze La 66, 2006. $17.95
As rich and fruity as you’d expect of a good southwestern France wine. Very full bodied and lots of red fruit on the palate, including raspberry. Some secondary notes, but this is all about the fruit. Nice finish that lingers. 88 points.
Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2005. $29.95
Rich nose of dark red fruit and secondary notes. This one is fresh and *smooth*, as well as quite fruity on the palate. Acidity and tannins are medium, so even though it will definitely improve and mature, it’s drinkable now. Nice finish of licorice and tobacco. 90 points.
Chateau St. Esteve D’Uchaux Grande Reserve 2005. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Nice rich nose of raspberries, though there are some green notes. Some plum is evident on the nose and there’s very good, almost sweet, fruit on the palate. There’s a bit of spiciness too and a nice finish. 89 points.
Michele Satta Pieastrais 2002. $29.95
An unusual blend here: sangiovese/cabernet sauvignon/merlot/syrah. Wow. But it works – rich and fruity nose. Super smooth on the palate with lots of good red berry fruit and some tobacco notes. Acids and tannins both high, so this will continue to improve. Good finish. 89 points.
Toscolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2004. $27.95
Tuscany at its best here: rich and complex nose of red berries and dark secondary notes. Smooth and elegant on the palate, with good acidity keeping it lively. Smooth fruit carries you through to pleasant smoky notes on the great, lingering finish. 91 points.
Santa Margherita Malbech 2005. $17.95 **TOP VALUE PICK**
Italy adds an “h” and takes on Argentina – and a very interesting take it is too. Rich and fruity noose with nice secondary notes of spice. Fairly round on the palate, but nice fruit, so a very happy medium between Old and New World. Definitely worth a try if you like malbec. 88 points.
Tedeshci Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2005. $20.95
A great example of the high end of sometimes bland valpolicella. Rich fruity nose with plum notes and some earthiness. Very fresh acidity and great mouthfeel, with lots of dark red fruit on the palate. Very pleasant, with a good finish of more plums. 88 points.
Miguel Torres Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon 2003. $44.95
Beautiful rich nose on this Spanish cab. Great red fruit and secondary notes. Rich and smooth on the palate with plenty of fruit as well as notes of tobacco and tar. Great lingering finish. 92 points.
