Vintages March 1 Release
Ahhh... Burgundy. That'd be nice right about now.
The Vintages crew were clearly expecting March to come in like a lamb: there's a terrific selection of white Burgundies this week even though the bitter reality in Ontariariario is that it's still winter.
And speaking of Ontario, the Lick-bo has also thoughfully gathered together the best chardonnays our fine province has to offer and OMFG are they ever good! Supporting local has never been so enjoyable.
Meanwhile, there are also some good reds, including some nice red Burgundies for pinot noir fans, and, more importantly, some big beefiness from Chile, Australia, Italy, Portugal, and the Rhone. Be warned though: this is a pricey release. There are a few bargains, but maybe don't mention to your financial advisor that you did anything other than skate at Queens Quay this weekend...
The Sparklers
Dufouleur Pere & Fils Cremant de Bourgogne Brut 2004. $19.95
If you're looking for a champagne alternative that's as close as possible, always go for the cremants from Alsace or Burgundy (Bourgogne). This solid effort certainly delivers: Clean fresh nose with a bit of fruit and a hint of anise. Very dry on the palate with crisp acidity. There's muted white fruit and a hint of sweetness. Nice finish with a very pleasant creme brulee note. And such a good price. 89 points.
Domaine de Nerleux Cremant de Loire Brut. $17.95
Fairly rich and biscuitty nose, but very vague cardboard and sweetish notes. Apple and maybe plum fruit. Full on palate and with ok fruit, but there is a slight off note. Nice fruit on the finish. 86 points
The Whites
Chateau des Charmes Paul Bosc Estate Chardonnay 2004. $19.95 ** BEST VALUE**
Fresh lemony nose with oaky notes. Great balance of acidity and a rich fullness on the palate. Some smokiness, lemon and even a hint of tropical fruit. A terrific chard, rich and full. 89 points.
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2005. $25.00
Fresh nose with woody notes and a bit of anise and lemon. Good crisp acidity on the palate, which has more lemon, butterscotch and lots of woody notes. A fine quality oaky chard. 89 points.
Tawse Robyn's Block Chardonnay 2004. $48.00
Great nose of smoke and wood, nicely balanced over white fruit. Smooth and rich on the palate, with crisp lemon juxtaposed with smoky sweetness that lingers through the lengthy finish. Interesting and elegant and worth every penny - my new Niagara favourite. 93 points.
Blasted Church Sauvignon Blanc 2006. $23.95
The Okanagan weighs in with some fine quality too: the muted nose on this one is not too characteristic, but it’s fresh, lemony and grassy on the palate. There’s good lemon, tart kiwi fruit and a nice finish. An interesting sauv blanc. 89 points.
Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Sauvigon Blanc 2006. $21.95
Another muted nose from Okanagan’s highest profile producer and this one remains muted on the palate. It’s fairly round (must be that summer heat out there) but there is a decent amount of citrus and a nice finish. 87 points.
Clarence Hill Chardonnay 2005. $16.95
Surprising fresh peach and plum notes on this Aussie’s nose. Full bodied, but the acidity is good and there are tropical fruit notes. The finish is decent, if a bit cloying. 87 points.
Babich Black Label Sauvignon Blanc 2007. $19.95
Classic NZ style sauvignon: grassy, herbaceous and lemony. Fresh and flavourful on the palate with some rich tropical fruit notes, including passion fruit and papaya. Nice lingering finish. Just what you want from New Zealand. 90 points.
Chateau de Quincay Sauvignon Selection Tradition 2006. $12.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Great price on this Loire Valley sauvignon blanc. Touraine is very near more famous Loire appellations like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume. Not very sauvignon nose – it’s mellow and has a hint of anise – but the fairly full bodied palate delivers the sharp lemon and herbaceous notes of sauvignon blanc. 87 points.
Varanda Do Conde Alvarinho/Trjadura 2006. $11.95
Here’s a super cheap fun Portuguese blend that includes the lovely alvarinho (albariño in Spanish) grape. Great fresh, flowery nose. Super dry and crisp acidity, the palate is marred by a slightly off cardboard note, but it’s not too prominent. Dry, sharp finish. 86 points.
The White Burgundies
Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune de Chateau 2005. $41.95
Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune de Chateau 2005. $41.95
Great chardonnay nose from this big and reliable producer: muted white fruit and slight smokiness. Fresh yet medium bodied on the palate, which is smooth and elegant. The oak is very well integrated, there’s more smoke and a nice lemony finish. 91 points.
Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis Montmains 2006. $28.95
Fresh clean nose with citrus notes. Smooth and with fresh acidity on the palate. Very dry and medium bodied. Nice finish with butterscotch hint and more lemon. 91 points.
Domain Roger Luquet Pouilly-Fuisse Terroir 2006. $27.95
Fresh lemony nose, very smooth and elegant on the palate. Super dry and lemon is the main fruit flavour, though there are also mineral notes. Crisp acidity, nice finish with that subtle Burgundian blending of flavours and a very light touch of oak. 90 points.
Divergey-Taboureau Meursault 2005. $39.95
Super rich nose with anise and lemon. Very smooth and elegant on the palate – slightly round yet still crisp. Great smoky oaky notes and more lemon, and it all resolves into a lovely smooth lingering and integrated finish. 92 points.
Jaffelin Bouzeron 2005. $24.95 ** BEST VALUE**
A relatively rare – and delightful – example of Burgundy’s “second grape” for whites: Aligote. This particular one could be mistaken for a chardonnay: very elegant nose with lemon and butterscotch under. Fresh with lots more lemon on the palate. Very crisp acidity, which is tamed nicely by smooth butterscotch from the oak. Great finish. 90 points.
La Chablisienne Chablis Les Vielles Vignes. $21.80
Chablis has seen its reputation slide – especially in Europe – after a lengthy boom that encouraged many lesser producers to export their mediocrity during the 80s and 90s. This one, part of the Vintages Essentials collection, is Chablis as it should be: great nose with butterscotch hints and some fresh lemon. Very, very dry with crisp acidity and mineral notes, there is beautifully integrated oak adding butterscotch. Great, especially at the price! 91 points.
Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay. $18.80
Noticeably oaky nose with cedar and citrus. Though powerful, the oaky notes are fairly well integrated on the palate. More lemon, some smokiness and butterscotch. Nice finish with more smoke. 88 points.
Paul and Mallory Talmard Maco-Uchizy 2006. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Quite aromatic nose – unusual for a chard. The Vintages write-up says, “[t]hough the producer does not indicate it, this chardonnay’s aroma profile suggests chardonnay musque." With a rich yellow-gold colour, this chard is quite full on the palate, but great acidity keeps it fresh. Following through from the nose, this is very fruity on the palate and includes tropical fruit notes. OK finish. 88 points.
Paul Jacqueson Rully 2005. $27.95
Here’s another good one from Rully, one of my favourite subdivisions of the Cote-Chalonnaise. Low key nose with anise and some surprising prune notes. Super fresh, dry and crisp on the palate, there’s a very interesting melange of flavours, including grapefruit. OK finish. 90 points.
The Reds
Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Carmenere 2005. $15.95
Not a bad example of Chile’s own grape, which can be temperamental. Lots of red berry fruit and a decent helping of secondary notes, including earthiness, pepper and even some spice. Acidity and tannins are medium, so it’s nicely smooth on the palate. Good value here! 88 points.
Viu Manent Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2004. $12.95 ** BEST VALUE**
Great value here from Chile. Very New World style bold, fruity cab. Tons of red berries and even some herbal secondary notes as well as maybe even chocolate. Tannins are relatively muted and the acidity is good. OK finish. 87 points
Plantagenet Omrah Shiraz 2004. $16.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Terrific Aussie shiraz with a great nose of dark fruit and secondary notes. Smooth, rich and full on the palate, there’s lots more red fruit, as well as spiciness, secondary woody notes and even some chocolate. Great lingering finish with butterscotch (!) and vanilla. 89 points.
Chateau Kirwan 2004. $52.95This Third Growth from the Margaux, the largest of the Medoc communes, commands a high price, but definitely delivers on quality. Rich Bordeaux nose of blackberries, cedar and smoky notes. Super dry and elegant on the palate. Acidity and tannins both high and there’s great red fruit through the middle. Terrific fresh finish that lingers. This isn’t ready yet and will definitely be even better in 3-5 years: lay some down. 91 points.
Chateau Moulin de Lavaud 2003. $25.95
Nicer price on this one: another good Bordeaux nose including dark red fruit, nice secondary notes and a bit of iodine. Smooth on the palate, acidity and tannins both elevated. There’s a slight sour note, but the smooth red fruit on the finish rescues it effectively. 88 points.
Fort Medoc 2000. $17.95
Here’s a fine “entry level” Bordeaux from the legendary 2000 vintage. Rich dark nose of blackberries and cedar. Medium bodied on the palate. Tannins are high-ish, but acidity is medium. There’s even a bit of iodine. Decent finish. 88 points.
Les Gartieux de Pichon Lalande 2001. $34.95
Beautiful and very Bordeaux nose on this fine Pauillac, nicely aged for you (but it still tastes young). There’s good dark red fruit and a nice hint of iodine on the nose. It’s ever so slightly sour on the palate, but there’s enough red fruit. Acidity and tannins are both still high, so this one can go longer, and there’s a nice lingering finish of smoky cedar. 89 points.
Chateau de Beacastel Chateauneuf-de-Pape 2005. $89.95
Robert Parker says he “can’t see it being close to drinkable before 2014,” but I think that’s an exaggeration. The nose is rich and complex – dark red fruit, red licorice and tar. Very full bodied on the palate with beautiful sweet red fruit. Tannins are very high, as is the acid: this is still very young and has the structure to last many years. A common view is that Chateau de Beaucastel needs ten years at least but, having recently had a 1996 that could have been fresher, I’d say this one will be well drinkable by 2010. It will last many years after that, to be sure, but, you know…
Domaine de la Vieille Ferme de L’Euoune Rasteau Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2004. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
Rasteau is one of the appellation’s villages that merits being named: a mark of quality. And this Rasteau delivers at a great price. Dark nose of blackberries, dark red fruit and rich dark secondary notes. Pleasantly sweet red fruit on the palate, tannins and acids are fairly high. Nice fresh finish. 88 points.
Valpantena Torre del Falasco Valpolicella Ripasso 2005. $17.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
This fine ripasso is the Wine of the Month – and well chosen it is too. Rich nose of dark plum and cherry fruit with good dark secondary notes. Mouth-filling fruit on the palate, and acidity and tannins are medium – so very easy drinking, ready right now. Good lingering finish. 89 points.
Caves do Solar de Sao Domingos Coheita 2005. $14.95
Move past the so-so nose and get to work on the rich full-bodied mouthful of red fruit on the palate. Nice balance of tannins and acidity, this one will be good with beef. OK finish, great value. 87 points.
Move past the so-so nose and get to work on the rich full-bodied mouthful of red fruit on the palate. Nice balance of tannins and acidity, this one will be good with beef. OK finish, great value. 87 points.
Bonterra Merlot 2005. $19.95
Inviting nose of dark red fruit. Smooth, easy drinking, yet with decent complexity. Sweetish red fruit and some spiciness. Acidity is only medium thanks to that Cali heat. Good finish with reasonable complexity and a definite sweet hint. 88 points.
The New World Pinots
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2005. $25.00
Very bold nose of dark red fruit, but with a slightly stewed character, plus earthiness and a bit of cedar. Mouth-filling on the palate, acidity is medium and the tannins are high. There are woody notes over the ripe black and slightly sour cherry. 89 points.
Gray Monk Pinot Noir 2006. $17.95
Decent quality from the Okanagan here – this would make a good intro to pinot. Fairly delicate, lightly fruity and with some earthy notes too. This would be perfect with salmon. 87 points.
Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2005. $29.95
Rich nose of dark red fruit, including cherries. Earthy undertones as well. Acidity is good on the palate, which is medium bodied and has nice cherry notes. Good finish. 89 points.
Wine By Joe Pinot Noir 2006. $22.95
Gimmicky “I’m just a regular guy” label aside, here’s a good example of why people say pinot is Oregon’s grape. Fresh New World style big cherry nose leads to a light-bodied, fruity, easy drinking palate. Fresh acidity and moderate tannins, and nice cherry fruit with just enough secondary notes to start to be interesting. Decent finish. 88 points.
The Red Burgundies
Antonin Guyon Chorey-Les-Baune 2005. $29.95
Rich ripe cherry on the nose with some earthiness too. Smooth on the palate, with tannins and acidity high. It’s a little sour on the palate, but nice finish. Similar to the Clos Jordanne on the nose, but softer bodied . 88 points.
Chateau Philippe-le-Hardi Mercurey 2005. $21.95
Great nose of cherry and earth: classic pinot. Light and, like a lot of Mercureys in my experience, rather sour on the palate. Good but needs food. 87 points.
Domaine Charles Allexant et Fils Vosne-Romanee 2004. $44.95
Bold and interesting nose of rich red fruit plus iodine (odd for a Burgundy). Smooth and elegant on the palate. Great acidity and just a hint of sourness – and this is overpowered nicely by the cherry sweetness of the fruit. Good lingering finish. 90 points.
Domaine Vincent Sauvestre Corton-Marechaudes 2005. $57.95
Great Burgundy nose – cherry fruit over nice earthiness. Super smooth and elegant on the palate. Tannins are medium to high, but beautifully integrated. There’s a lovely finish of cherries and cedar, all very muted and understated. 92 points.
Frederic Magnien Chambolle-Musigny Vielles Vignes 2005. $55.95
Rich red fruit on the nose, super smooth on the palate. Elegant cherries and well balanced tannins give it structure. Good secondary complexity and nicely integrated finish with more cherry fruit and smoky notes. 92 points.
Moillard Bourgogn Pinot Noir Tradition 2005. $15.95 ** GOOD VALUE**
If you Burgundy on a budget, here you go. It’s light, fruity and easy drinking, but the acidity and tannin levels are just high enough to rescue it from New World pop-dom. 87 points.
