Grappa @ LCBO Summerhill February 25

Order of Canada recipient Tony Aspler organized a tasting of grappa with an interesting twist: a series differentiated by the grapes used. In other words, "cabernet" grappa, "prosecco" grappa, etc.

Grappa is a double distilled brandy made from the pomace, or residue (mainly skins), left over after winemaking. In France, the same process is used to make marc. Alcohol levels are high - usually 38%, but they can go above 60% - and it is generally served as a digestif (digestivo) after a big dinner. It's usually clear, though a few grappas are barrel-aged and these can look like whiskies.

Aspler visited Bottega, the world's largest producer of grappa, located about 50km from Venice. The Bottega family had been in the wine and grappa business for generations, but in the 1980s, Sandro and Stefano Bottega implemented a new distillation system that made for lower-alcohol and finer tasting grappa. "Sandro Bottega is the original Energizer Bunny," Tony told us, noting that not only has he introduced new distilling methods and dozens of styles, he also designs a vast range of bottles.

Fascinating grappa facts: it takes around 10kg of grape skins to make 1L of grappa, though only 8kg if the skins are from amarone. The post-distillation product will be around 70% alcohol, so it must be watered down.

The Taste
We tried a number of different grappas but, apart from the "Moscato", made from the very flavourful and aromatic muscat grape, it was frankly impossible to discern any characteristics of the grapes. Tony also says you should NOT swirl a glass of grappa "because the alcohol is so strong it will anaesthetize your nose." It should be noted that the Bottega grappas were generally very smooth and  were all very much grappas: only by tasting them side-by-side can the flavour differences be teased out. The grappas cost around $50 a bottle and are available through Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Grappa di Moscato - pleasantly grapey nose, this is the only one I thought possibly characteristic of its grape. Slightly sweet on the palate, grapey notes.

Grappa di Cabernet - less sweet, less fragrant, darker notes.

Grappa di Brunello di Montalchino - faintly fruity nose, smooth on the palate, some vanilla.

Grappa di Greco di Tufo - very similar to the brunello, but a spicy note.

Grappa di Falanghina - very dry and smooth, again with some spice notes.

Grappa di Primitivo Principi Aldobrandini - very powerful, with darker notes.

Grappa di Nero d'Avola - lightly fruity, hint of spice, and "very pleasant". This one was my favourite.

Alexander Platinum Grappa - arrgghhh! Freaky mirrored bottle and freakish 60% alcohol. Pure firewater, no discernable flavours. This one costs more too: $69.95. "Who would drink this and when?" I asked the gathered company. Responses were varied, but I liked "Italian women on their wedding night".

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 Visit his website for more details on Tony Aspler's visit to Bottega.

Read about Bottaga's history here.

Get even more information about grappa on Wikipedia.